Starter issues
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Starter issues
Hello all,
had to replace the starter on my 1977, so I was told the engine in this is out of a 69 Vette. I replaced the starter with a remanufactured starter for a 69. The swap of the starter starter seemed easy enough, however it seems to be taking a lot more time to fire up than it did before and does not sound great. Any advice?
had to replace the starter on my 1977, so I was told the engine in this is out of a 69 Vette. I replaced the starter with a remanufactured starter for a 69. The swap of the starter starter seemed easy enough, however it seems to be taking a lot more time to fire up than it did before and does not sound great. Any advice?
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 95
Likes: 28
From: Southern MD
Big Block or Small Block? I have a 71 with a 454 in it. The starter is one heavy block of metal. The Big Block one is mounted with the two front bolts up into the block but it has a support that bolts to the back and is attached to the block. I am pretty sure on that same attachment is a ground wire which grounds the block to the chassis.. If you have the same setup, make sure this got reconnected. If it is not, it will definitely cause problems for you.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 7,458
Likes: 1,484
From: Little Rock AR
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
If yours has the larger (168T) flywheel / staggered starter bolt pattern ... and NO ignition points ... this one @ $56 delivered
https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...sdr0019-l.html
https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...sdr0019-l.html
Last edited by jackson; May 21, 2020 at 06:13 PM.
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Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 23
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https://m.autozone.com/batteries-sta..._242645_0?aqs=
this is the starter I put in, looks like a cast iron nose. It’s a 350 5.7 L engine.
this is the starter I put in, looks like a cast iron nose. It’s a 350 5.7 L engine.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
Likes: 3,399
From: SW Florida.
that is not the starter you used. that is for a small flywheel 6 cyl or 305-307 car. yours looks like this and is aluminum nose... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...hoCJooQAvD_BwE
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
That starter motor has no spacer between the solenoid and the electrical tab that goes into the motor. Those are for small displacement low power applications. It won't turn over a healthy 350 worth a damn. You need to find a starter with a spacer in there because the motor is longer and more powerful. You'll know the spacer when you see it. The tab is away from the solenoid so it needs a spacer tube and longer screw to connect the two togeher. I don't recall the distance offhand but it's maybe 3/4" or so.
Are you sure you have the straight across bolt pattern, not the staggered bolt pattern? If you do, you could also go for a mini starter from a mid 90's LT1 application.
Are you sure you have the straight across bolt pattern, not the staggered bolt pattern? If you do, you could also go for a mini starter from a mid 90's LT1 application.
Last edited by lionelhutz; May 22, 2020 at 07:34 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,009
Likes: 1,116
From: North tonawanda NY
If yours has the larger (168T) flywheel / staggered starter bolt pattern ... and NO ignition points ... this one @ $56 delivered
https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...sdr0019-l.html
https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...sdr0019-l.html
Last edited by augiedoggy; May 22, 2020 at 08:38 AM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
That starter motor has no spacer between the solenoid and the electrical tab that goes into the motor. Those are for small displacement low power applications. It won't turn over a healthy 350 worth a damn. You need to find a starter with a spacer in there because the motor is longer and more powerful. You'll know the spacer when you see it. The tab is away from the solenoid so it needs a spacer tube and longer screw to connect the two togeher. I don't recall the distance offhand but it's maybe 3/4" or so.
Are you sure you have the straight across bolt pattern, not the staggered bolt pattern? If you do, you could also go for a mini starter from a mid 90's LT1 application.
Are you sure you have the straight across bolt pattern, not the staggered bolt pattern? If you do, you could also go for a mini starter from a mid 90's LT1 application.
the starter I sent in the link above was the exact same starter I pulled out, and yes the bolt pattern lines up, I will say there is basically no clearance between the nose cone and engine housing.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 7,458
Likes: 1,484
From: Little Rock AR
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
This would be the DBElectric one I would use.
https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...sdr0020-l.html
You also need the correct bolts when changing to a mini-starter.
https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...sdr0020-l.html
You also need the correct bolts when changing to a mini-starter.
