I guess it is possible that your 3.08 isn't helping you much out of the hole but maybe you have some other things going on..
timing not optimized or maybe the carb doesn't actually go to full WOT....
hopefully the cam wasn't installed retarded by mistake.

Might want to post up the cam specs, compression ratio and timing details as well so others can chime in with their knowledge.. assuming it is not just a loose converter you are chasing.

 

The governor will solve the OP's premature shift points as stated.

 

here are my motor specs on what I’m running.

 

The OP states that he doesn't feel the shifts, Where doe he say premature shifts?

 

Read post #13......." when I shift it manually, it does shift nice and firm. Just seems like it shifts premature when it’s in the normal automatic mode. I’m taking it to a transmission shop on Tuesday to see if they can improve it. If not, probably swap the TC for a better higher quality one.".........

 

So I took it to the transmission shop and they found lots of very fine metal shavings in the pan. I mean so fine that it didn't feel gritty at all so it's probably sediment that was in the cooling line. I did not flush those lines as i didn't know I was supposed to. Now they think that sediment is messing with the shifting module so to be safe, they're removing the transmission and opening it up to make sure that metal isn't coming from their rebuild work. Clean it out and put everything back together. Meanwhile, My engine manufacturer re-evaluated their recommendation and said I could put in a 2,000-2300 stall TC. They referred me to a guy at Gear Star to get setup with another TC but he said I should keep the 2300-2600. He said if my car rolls a little bit while in Drive, That the stall is about right, any lower would require mashing the brake pedal down further. He said he could very easily sell me a TC but he thinks I have the correct one based on how it behaves while in gear.

 

Good deal! Do you really want to reuse that TC if there was metal in the tranny?

 

oh no no no...I will have it replaced.

 

The only converter I will ever use is a Yank 9.5" unit

The correct way to build a trans for street car is to keep part throttle accumulation, it should not 'bang' at part throttle

According to paper of engine output you posted they already ran that engine up to 5700rpm so I am not sure about your 'break in period' relvancy

Pretty common to make mistakes when building transmission and engines, I wish you the best of luck but statistics is against anybody not doing it themselves these days (if you want something done right...)

 

I agree, but how many here have the know how AND the tools to do the job?

 

To pile on put a shift kit in and set it up for both auto shifting and the ability to hold it in any gear for as long as you want and manually shift it. I put one in my TH 400 when I rebuilt it 40 years ago when I was in my early twenties with no manual, no internet and no digital camera not hard at all. The trans is in my Buick GS 455 Stage 1 and is a TH 400 switch pitch Unit out of an old big Buick. Needed it as I have a wild cam called the window rattler and it would not idle without it. The thing Has a 3200 stall speed and shifts like a beast in auto mode with nice chirps and long ones in manual mode. The converter can be locked up with a toggle switch Or one tied to the brake pedal. It has a stock modulator and governor and I added a trans cooler with Auxiliary remote filter. No OD but no heat and slippage At high rpm and I don’t drive it much on the highway. I wonder if anyone has tried one of these in a vette in place of an OD unit as it would bolt right in and not require crossmember, tunnel, shifter and control mods Just an on/off switch. Problem is the cases are in short supply now, the converters are scare and have to be rebuilt and not too many shops are familiar with them (there is a good one in Texas)

 

Jebbysan hit it with both the loose converter comment and that tire chirping shifts are just hard on parts. A loose (cheap) converter will hardly have any drive below stall speed and therefore seem really soft below stall speed. A quality high stall converter will drive almost like a stock one until you get aggressive with the gas. A quality 3600rpm stall converter will drive nicer than a cheap 2400rpm stall converter and be way more fun as well.

Kingtal0n also nailed it with the comment about keeping the accumulator action so the shifts are firm but not harsh or "banging".

 

Zack Farah from Gear Star said I should just stick to all my original gear I have and get the transmission cleaned out, inspected, and replace the shift module as that probably got gunked up with the influx of metal from the cooler lines. He says he can easily build me a TC but he wants to see if I can get it back to proper working order then see if it's to my liking before I go spending a bunch of money on a quality TC. He said it does make it difficult to make one that will be an in the middle TC based on my torque and the 3.08 or 3.05 rear end. I told him I do alot of freeway driving between Ventura, Santa Barbara, and Cambria so it's nice not whinding the engine out trying to keep up with the 75-80 mph flow of traffic.He says where I'm at is where I should be.

I did most of the OTF restoration myself but I'm not an engine builder nor am I a transmission builder. I wish I could say I built my own motor and transmission but I can't. This car has been in the family since it was purchased 2 weeks before I was born. I still have the window sticker, all the service records, and the spec sheets from the dealer. I felt I owe it to my family to keep this car in good shape and on the road so I can enjoy it as well as my boys when they get older. I drove this car when i turned 16 and garaged it for 15 years until now. I appreciate all the input from everyone and will keep this thread going as I find out what's going on.