Carb size question
I have attached my dyno graph (chassis dyno... so it is rear-wheel numbers; best guess is ~470hp/520tq on an engine stand). I didn't build the engine in the car. I do believe it idles extremely well, has instant throttle response, and makes good, if not great, power... for what it is. Combo is a 468 BB, ~9.0+:1 CR, Pro Comp alum rect port heads, 240/250 duration, .570"/.570" lift, Herbert cams solid roller cam, LS6 low-rise intake, 2 1/4" Hooker primary long tube headers, with a custom 3" under-the-car exhaust all the way out back, topped by a Holley 750 mechanical carb. It has the choke tower, but no choke plate... the choke has been disabled... not a big deal for me down here in TX as far as cold starts.
I've been told the carb is too small, but then some of these formulas say with the rpms I'm turning (limited by the intake to some degree, for sure), I'm fine. Also, the WOT A/F ratio is very good (12.8:1... all the way across the rev-range). It's not running out of fuel, from what I can tell. For those who believe the carb is too small... would a larger carb help top-end power, even with the low-rise LS6 intake?
Just looking for opinions. The combo runs really well, and I'm most likely going to leave it alone until a) I build an engine for it someday, b) decide to get an L88 hood, run a high-rise manifold at which point I will strongly consider a new carb, and/or c) the carb needs a serious rebuild.
Last edited by WA 2 FST; Jun 7, 2020 at 03:18 PM.
If as you say "the combo runs great" and "the WOT A/F ratio is very good (12.8:1... all the way across the rev-range)" then what's the problem?
I don't get the point of your thread. Nothing to discuss.





Lars
Last edited by lars; Jun 7, 2020 at 06:33 PM.
There are convertors online that will help you estimate how much HP is being "lost" but It's not major. Unless you are drag racing and every couple HP is important.
OTOH a DP gives a strong pump shot at low rpm and has strong throttle response, but between that and the rich carb calibrations they are not particularly fuel efficient. You can do way better than a DP in that regard.
Personally I think that size is just perfect unless you are turning it over 6500 rpm. A bigger carb, especially a DP can get a serious "bog" at low rpms when it is too big.
Last edited by leigh1322; Jun 7, 2020 at 07:09 PM.
Lars

There are convertors online that will help you estimate how much HP is being "lost" but It's not major. Unless you are drag racing and every couple HP is important.
OTOH a DP gives a strong pump shot at low rpm and has strong throttle response, but between that and the rich carb calibrations they are not particularly fuel efficient. You can do way better than a DP in that regard.
Personally I think that size is just perfect unless you are turning it over 6500 rpm. A bigger carb, especially a DP can get a serious "bog" at low rpms when it is too big.
I'm running an electric fuel pump. i need to check and see what it is (didn't build the combo). i may be wrong, but given a good, stable A/F ratio at WOT across the current rev-range, I felt it wasn't a fuel problem. Wouldn't it start to go lean on the top-end if I had a fuel supply issue?
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I had two experienced engine builders tell me a high rise would be worth about 20-30 HP vs the LS6 intake, but then there is a hood issue as we know.
There is one 850HP C3 running around with a LS6 intake and a BB hood, runs 9.70s, but I am almost positive he did some serious mods to it since it sports a dominator carb and a 5200 rpm stall convertor!
http://www.superchevy.com/features/1...timate-sleeper
Hardly looks like a 9.7 sec car:
Last edited by leigh1322; Jun 8, 2020 at 02:24 PM.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Jun 8, 2020 at 02:35 PM.
Engine dyno, my numbers would be ~460hp/520tq... which is not bad, considering the combo which is very streetable and pretty mild, IMHO. HP being flat from 5200-5600 with a good A/F ratio tells me it is an airflow issue. Cam (based on manufacturer specs) should make power to ~6200rpm, so peak HP could be obtained ~5800-5900rpm. Exhaust is not the issue. Heads are not what I would have chosen (I will swear by AFRs, and that is what will go on if/when I do a rebuild someday), but they should also not be a restriction at the rev-range where the cam operates. We all recognize the LS6 intake is a restriction. And so that brought me to the carb sizing question.
Probably not worth doing anything at all until/unless I take the plunge and install a new hood, hi-rise intake, along with a little bit larger carb.
Many race engines are set up with this 0.5" vac level. But on a 5600 rpm 454?
But there are many other factors in play, and some engines make more power at 1.5 or even 2.0" vac at WOT. Because you are switching carbs and a lot of other things too.
A larger carb also becomes increasingly more difficult to get to run smoothly at low rpms due to poor fuel distribution with the low vac drop in the venturis. Unless you step up to different venturis etc. etc.
Right now you stated it runs smoothly at cruise at 1600 rpm and gets 18mpg. You could lose all that with a bigger carb.
Is it really worth it for maybe 14 HP?
Now with a little more cam, 10.5 C.R., better AFR heads, a way bigger carb, manifold and hood, there is 80-100 HP to be had and it's still very streetable.
I know what my biggest restriction is. It's the exhaust port flow in my 50 year old L88 alum heads. It's really bad compared to new design heads..They're only a 62% E/I ratio. In flow 311/ EX 203 cfm. Just changing those to AFRs should gain 60HP. The AFR 265 intakes only go to 331 but the exhaust jump is huge to 273 cfm (at .600 lift) for an 82% E/I ratio. The change in the exhaust flow is Huge and that's what lets the power out. The intake & carb restriction is all minor compared to that. I figure your Procomp heads are a little better than mine but your CR is way lower so that about evens us out. That cam even has a little bit too much overlap for a 9:1 motor and is not helping much. With more cam you would really need more CR. Yeah if you built it you could could make it better.





My original 427 had a 242/248 CC extreme Solid Roller cam and I thought that it was kind of mild. But I was exceeding 7000 rpm.
I personally don't think that 750 is too small
My original 427 had a 242/248 CC extreme Solid Roller cam and I thought that it was kind of mild. But I was exceeding 7000 rpm.
I personally don't think that 750 is too small
I had not even considered the air cleaner being restrictive. I should have removed it on the dyno and made a pull... just didn't even think about that.
In a perfect world, I'd get a new hood, run a Edelbrock Performer AirGap intake, and optimize the combo from there. I think it probably has another 30-40hp (from 4500-6000rpm) in it, split between a better intake and a little larger carb. Whether that is worth the expense or not is another question altogether.
With your synopsis on all counts. I emulated the LS6 so well I choked it with old heads. If I did my similar engine over from scratch today. knowing what I have learned since, I would probably ditch the L88 heads and go with the AFR 325s and a lil more cam, like a 242/250. I'd leave the LS6 intake but maybe go to a bigger carb. DD says HP should climb from 485 to 570 at 6000. That was kind of what my builders and I were expecting, just didn't know the exhaust port was that bad. As I kick it around in my head during the rest of the car frame-off, it might even happen before the engine ever goes in!

















