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Old Jun 7, 2020 | 05:21 PM
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Default #8 fusable link

Anybody have a source for #8 fusable link? I can only find 25' rolls for $100. I just need 2' for a few projects.(4x6" lengths is fine).
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Old Jun 7, 2020 | 05:28 PM
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I have a roll. Send me a PM tomorrow. What you have? 160 amp alt.
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Old Jun 7, 2020 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by GordonR
I have a roll. Send me a PM tomorrow. What you have? 160 amp alt.
I have 3 project cars with #4 alternator leads. CS-130D
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Old Jun 7, 2020 | 06:13 PM
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How about #4-#8 step down butt splices?
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Old Jun 7, 2020 | 06:35 PM
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Sorry I dont have step downs. I use 4 gauge splices and crimp both sides then solder in with a torch and heat shrink. It can be crimped to look ok.
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Old Jun 7, 2020 | 08:10 PM
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The fusible link needs to be non-flammable. If it were to fry/melt, it must not start an insulation fire nor must it propagate excess heat to adjoining wiring. A proper fusible-link has appropriate insulation and has non-flammable termination points where joined with other wiring. A little ball of JB Weld epoxy at each juncture will do that job.
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Old Jun 7, 2020 | 08:15 PM
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Old Jun 8, 2020 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
The fusible link needs to be non-flammable. If it were to fry/melt, it must not start an insulation fire nor must it propagate excess heat to adjoining wiring. A proper fusible-link has appropriate insulation and has non-flammable termination points where joined with other wiring. A little ball of JB Weld epoxy at each juncture will do that job.

How do you use your epoxy? This is new to me.
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Old Jun 8, 2020 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
Originally Posted by GordonR
How do you use your epoxy? This is new to me.
That picture is from a stock C5 harness I am repairing. There is a hard sealant under the shrink tube. I have no clue what it is, but I can see JB weld being okay for the application.
I imagine someone knows specifically what it is.
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Old Jun 8, 2020 | 12:00 PM
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That heat shrink is glue lined to keep water out. If you don't have any of that shrink try brushing liquid tape on the splice and slide the heat shrink over it.
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Old Jun 8, 2020 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by GordonR
That heat shrink is glue lined to keep water out. If you don't have any of that shrink try brushing liquid tape on the splice and slide the heat shrink over it.
I have used silicone grease for that. Phone techs call it " Icky pik."
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Old Jun 8, 2020 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
I have used silicone grease for that. Phone techs call it " Icky pik."
The name sounds appropriate.
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Old Jun 8, 2020 | 02:42 PM
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Just use a wad of JB Weld stick (putty) epoxy, knead it as required, then form a little ball with your palms and place one over each connection point on the fuse-link. That will prevent heat transfer to the adjoining wire insulation. I think the heat-shrink tubing idea is a good one, as long as you test a sample to prove that it WILL NOT propagate a flame when torched.

So [non-flammable] heat shrink tubing over the #12 wire and ball of heat tolerant epoxy around each connection point should provide you with a suitable fusible link for a #8 wire. If you find that your 'new' link fails in short order, I suspect there is a high current draw in that circuit somewhere or you are overloading that line beyond what a #8 should handle.

Last edited by 7T1vette; Jun 8, 2020 at 02:44 PM.
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Old Jun 8, 2020 | 03:07 PM
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Marine Heat shrink tubing has a glue inside of it that is activated when heated up to shrink. It is worth the extra money to use it on Corvettes. It is a bit harder to remove but it sure seals well.

Why are you using a Fusible link? I bought a 125 amp circuit breaker and mounted it inside the Corvette. They are available in several different amperage's and are reliable and water-resistant.
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Old Jun 8, 2020 | 06:45 PM
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OEM repair.
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Old Jun 8, 2020 | 09:04 PM
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Circuit breakers and fusible-links have different purposes. You could put one in the other's place, but the "need" of it would not necessarily be served.

Circuit breakers are there to easily correct some 'expected' over-current condition. Fusible-links are used where there is NO expectation of problem...except for a rare dead-short due to some internal component failure or due to a DIY owner working on the electrical system without disconnecting the battery. The latter case being the most common cause for Fusible-link failures....
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