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The fusible link needs to be non-flammable. If it were to fry/melt, it must not start an insulation fire nor must it propagate excess heat to adjoining wiring. A proper fusible-link has appropriate insulation and has non-flammable termination points where joined with other wiring. A little ball of JB Weld epoxy at each juncture will do that job.
The fusible link needs to be non-flammable. If it were to fry/melt, it must not start an insulation fire nor must it propagate excess heat to adjoining wiring. A proper fusible-link has appropriate insulation and has non-flammable termination points where joined with other wiring. A little ball of JB Weld epoxy at each juncture will do that job.
That picture is from a stock C5 harness I am repairing. There is a hard sealant under the shrink tube. I have no clue what it is, but I can see JB weld being okay for the application.
I imagine someone knows specifically what it is.
That heat shrink is glue lined to keep water out. If you don't have any of that shrink try brushing liquid tape on the splice and slide the heat shrink over it.
That heat shrink is glue lined to keep water out. If you don't have any of that shrink try brushing liquid tape on the splice and slide the heat shrink over it.
I have used silicone grease for that. Phone techs call it " Icky pik."
Just use a wad of JB Weld stick (putty) epoxy, knead it as required, then form a little ball with your palms and place one over each connection point on the fuse-link. That will prevent heat transfer to the adjoining wire insulation. I think the heat-shrink tubing idea is a good one, as long as you test a sample to prove that it WILL NOT propagate a flame when torched.
So [non-flammable] heat shrink tubing over the #12 wire and ball of heat tolerant epoxy around each connection point should provide you with a suitable fusible link for a #8 wire. If you find that your 'new' link fails in short order, I suspect there is a high current draw in that circuit somewhere or you are overloading that line beyond what a #8 should handle.
Marine Heat shrink tubing has a glue inside of it that is activated when heated up to shrink. It is worth the extra money to use it on Corvettes. It is a bit harder to remove but it sure seals well.
Why are you using a Fusible link? I bought a 125 amp circuit breaker and mounted it inside the Corvette. They are available in several different amperage's and are reliable and water-resistant.
Circuit breakers and fusible-links have different purposes. You could put one in the other's place, but the "need" of it would not necessarily be served.
Circuit breakers are there to easily correct some 'expected' over-current condition. Fusible-links are used where there is NO expectation of problem...except for a rare dead-short due to some internal component failure or due to a DIY owner working on the electrical system without disconnecting the battery. The latter case being the most common cause for Fusible-link failures....