Side pipe heat 😡
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 1,779
Likes: 250
From: Ocean County NJ
Side pipe heat 😡
Anybody come up with a fix for controlling the heat generated by side pipes on a C3?
i have chrome hooker long tubes and the heat generated in the car cabin is bad enough but the real problem is heating up of the clutch causing problems with shifting
wondering if it’s possible to do a heat shield of some kind
i have chrome hooker long tubes and the heat generated in the car cabin is bad enough but the real problem is heating up of the clutch causing problems with shifting
wondering if it’s possible to do a heat shield of some kind
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,734
Likes: 2,582
I have had Hooker and other brand side pipes for decades. They have no effect on the clutch. You have a problem elsewhere.
How did you adjust the clutch?
What brand clutch are you using?
Is your shifter correctly adjusted?
Have you turned off the hot water flowing through your heater core?
How did you adjust the clutch?
What brand clutch are you using?
Is your shifter correctly adjusted?
Have you turned off the hot water flowing through your heater core?
Last edited by MelWff; Jul 13, 2020 at 08:38 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 1,779
Likes: 250
From: Ocean County NJ
I have had Hooker and other brand side pipes for decades. They have no effect on the clutch. You have a problem elsewhere.
How did you adjust the clutch?
What brand clutch are you using?
Is your shifter correctly adjusted?
Have you turned off the hot water flowing through your heater core?
How did you adjust the clutch?
What brand clutch are you using?
Is your shifter correctly adjusted?
Have you turned off the hot water flowing through your heater core?
not sure what brand of clutch it is but it’s a Richmond 6 speed with long shifter
I just got the car a few months ago and only have problems when it is real hot out and when the car gets hot
havent done anything but put redline fluid in It which was recommended by Richmond since I wasn’t sure what f it was ever changed
When it gets hot it takes a lot more pedal travel to engage and The shifter takes more effort
when I had it on the lift one of the shifter rods did look like it was cocked and maybe it gets worse when it gets hot but that should not effect clutch pedal travel
appreciate any suggestions
C3. 427, 4-link, c7 z06
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 994
Likes: 204
From: Virginia
Is your hydraulic fluid reservoir close to the headers? That could be a problem but I don’t use a hydraulic clutch so I’m not sure.
Last edited by Corvettedave02; Jul 13, 2020 at 09:36 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,406
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
Anybody come up with a fix for controlling the heat generated by side pipes on a C3?
i have chrome hooker long tubes and the heat generated in the car cabin is bad enough but the real problem is heating up of the clutch causing problems with shifting
wondering if it’s possible to do a heat shield of some kind
i have chrome hooker long tubes and the heat generated in the car cabin is bad enough but the real problem is heating up of the clutch causing problems with shifting
wondering if it’s possible to do a heat shield of some kind
Last edited by 68/70Vette; Jul 13, 2020 at 10:36 PM.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 1,779
Likes: 250
From: Ocean County NJ
Do we have a terminology problem here? If you have side pipes, the exhaust pipes will exit behind the front wheels and run backwards along the outside of the car, exhausting into the air just in front of the rear wheels. There's no way that sidepipes will cause clutch/transmission/cabin heating. That's the reason people install sidepipes. You wrote of having Hooker long tubes.......I'm wondering if you just have header's collecting into a pair of exhaust pipes running down the conventional routing on either side of the bellhousing/clutch/transmission?
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9,137
Likes: 4,246
From: US-PNW
Let's identify where the heat inside is most intense: foot floorboard behind the pedals? trans tunnel? door side of the under body? On passenger side, are you experiencing excessive heat in the same area and to the same degree?
Is my vette stock?? HAHA
Joined: Oct 2015
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From: Im not allowed to tell you
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
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You can get the headers ceramic coated, that will knock down the heat, you can get header blankets that cover the header and look like a fire resistant blanket, they will help. You can cover the foot wells and firewall with a Dynamat type heat reflective barrier and that will help. You can put in the trans tunnel shield or use the barrier in the tunnel as well.
I just added ceramic coated side pipe headers for the 69 pipes and noticed a slight heat increase at my feet. I only have the metal heat shields/ rock deflectors and the tunnel shield. I would try the header blanket first as its an easier application vs trying to place the shielding with the motor and headers installed. The shield barrier is llike putting on a giant piece of duct tape so you need to place it where yo want it then pull the back off a little at a time.....frustrating and angering. Or pu
t in in the passenger conaprtment after gutting the seat and carpet out...just put it up to thegas pedal so it doesnt change the travel and limit fuel
I just added ceramic coated side pipe headers for the 69 pipes and noticed a slight heat increase at my feet. I only have the metal heat shields/ rock deflectors and the tunnel shield. I would try the header blanket first as its an easier application vs trying to place the shielding with the motor and headers installed. The shield barrier is llike putting on a giant piece of duct tape so you need to place it where yo want it then pull the back off a little at a time.....frustrating and angering. Or pu
t in in the passenger conaprtment after gutting the seat and carpet out...just put it up to thegas pedal so it doesnt change the travel and limit fuel
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Jul 14, 2020 at 07:41 AM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 1,779
Likes: 250
From: Ocean County NJ
floorboards on both sides mainly, I am sure there are a few holes under the carpet and it does look like the clutch boot is shot and I see a few grommets with nothing in them
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9,137
Likes: 4,246
From: US-PNW
Not sure how universal throughout the C3 years GM used shields in this area, but my '72 has metal heat (some call them splash) shields for that area. Looking under the car, on each side, do you see a roughly 10"x12" metal shield with legs that stand it off from the firewall an inch or two? If yours are missing, replacing them could certainly help keep the direct heat of the headers from radiating through the floorboards.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,406
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
Really nice C3!!
I have a 68 and they came from the factory with insulation panels/blankets that were dropped in later years. I would have assumed GM would have kept them on later years. I was surprised to discover my 70 was missing this insulation. It had only the bare metal heat/splash shields mentioned above.
Here's what you get with the 68 insulation system. Fiberglass blankets that cover approximately the lower half of engine side of the firewall, the blankets then wrap around on the bottom/underside of the car going back to the transmission crossmember. These blankets only cover the bottom of the passenger side floor and the driver side floor. The bottom of the bell housing/tranny are not covered. To protect from road damage, the panels in the engine compartment are protected by metal shields and metal shields on the fiberglass panels underneath the passenger side and the driver's side. All this stuff is pretty inexpensive and last I looked still available. The Paragon catalog has them and drawings showing their installation. I've bought a set for my 70.
Not sure how universal throughout the C3 years GM used shields in this area, but my '72 has metal heat (some call them splash) shields for that area. Looking under the car, on each side, do you see a roughly 10"x12" metal shield with legs that stand it off from the firewall an inch or two? If yours are missing, replacing them could certainly help keep the direct heat of the headers from radiating through the floorboards.
Here's what you get with the 68 insulation system. Fiberglass blankets that cover approximately the lower half of engine side of the firewall, the blankets then wrap around on the bottom/underside of the car going back to the transmission crossmember. These blankets only cover the bottom of the passenger side floor and the driver side floor. The bottom of the bell housing/tranny are not covered. To protect from road damage, the panels in the engine compartment are protected by metal shields and metal shields on the fiberglass panels underneath the passenger side and the driver's side. All this stuff is pretty inexpensive and last I looked still available. The Paragon catalog has them and drawings showing their installation. I've bought a set for my 70.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 1,779
Likes: 250
From: Ocean County NJ
Really nice C3!!
I have a 68 and they came from the factory with insulation panels/blankets that were dropped in later years. I would have assumed GM would have kept them on later years. I was surprised to discover my 70 was missing this insulation. It had only the bare metal heat/splash shields mentioned above.
Here's what you get with the 68 insulation system. Fiberglass blankets that cover approximately the lower half of engine side of the firewall, the blankets then wrap around on the bottom/underside of the car going back to the transmission crossmember. These blankets only cover the bottom of the passenger side floor and the driver side floor. The bottom of the bell housing/tranny are not covered. To protect from road damage, the panels in the engine compartment are protected by metal shields and metal shields on the fiberglass panels underneath the passenger side and the driver's side. All this stuff is pretty inexpensive and last I looked still available. The Paragon catalog has them and drawings showing their installation. I've bought a set for my 70.
I have a 68 and they came from the factory with insulation panels/blankets that were dropped in later years. I would have assumed GM would have kept them on later years. I was surprised to discover my 70 was missing this insulation. It had only the bare metal heat/splash shields mentioned above.
Here's what you get with the 68 insulation system. Fiberglass blankets that cover approximately the lower half of engine side of the firewall, the blankets then wrap around on the bottom/underside of the car going back to the transmission crossmember. These blankets only cover the bottom of the passenger side floor and the driver side floor. The bottom of the bell housing/tranny are not covered. To protect from road damage, the panels in the engine compartment are protected by metal shields and metal shields on the fiberglass panels underneath the passenger side and the driver's side. All this stuff is pretty inexpensive and last I looked still available. The Paragon catalog has them and drawings showing their installation. I've bought a set for my 70.
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,097
Likes: 4,027
From: New Braunfels Texas
If it has mechanical clutch release setup (stock) then there is no way heat can cause pedal travel differences......
As far as shifting is concerned.....is the trans topped off?
As far as heat is concerned....where is your timing set at?
Jebby
As far as shifting is concerned.....is the trans topped off?
As far as heat is concerned....where is your timing set at?
Jebby
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9,137
Likes: 4,246
From: US-PNW
I have a 68 and they came from the factory with insulation panels/blankets that were dropped in later years. I would have assumed GM would have kept them on later years. I was surprised to discover my 70 was missing this insulation. It had only the bare metal heat/splash shields mentioned above.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 1,779
Likes: 250
From: Ocean County NJ
It’s not a timing problem, car is not really running hot, Just gets super hot in cabin and have this hot shifting problem
When I got the car it had a new 4 core copper radiator with the big tanks, a flex fan with a 180 stat and pretty much stays at that after warm up even in hot temps, except during long idling or when stuck in traffic it may go to 190 but then drops right down, It had a vapor lock problem at the same time I was trying to fix so the two were happening at the same time, which made it a lot of fun, but I fixed the vapor lock problem with a return line regulator, moving the fuel line and Adding a carb heat shield and insulator gasket
it’s not my imagination, it’s fine shifting when cold but when driving for 20-30 mins or so In hot weather it happens and when this happens the pedal catches just above the floorboard And it Also takes more muscle on the shifter too, so I think it might need adjustment due to something expanding or binding
have to get it on the lift again to see what’s going on
appreciate any and all suggestions
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 955
Likes: 50
From: Jersey Shore
Bring it to work one day and swing by my shop. Ill go for a ride with you and see if I can point you in the right direction. I dont think the ROD 6 speeds have a synchronized reverse gear, so it should be easy to tell if youve got a clutch release problem or a trans problem.
