1968 Corvette Windshield Wiper Challenge










And I'd also search here: http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/?...&s=wiper+motor
With all this you should be able to figure your issue out.
Wiper Motor Bench Test 68 Ver 1
Wiper Motor Bench Test 68 Ver 2 "Follow up"
Great threads on 68 Wiper motors can be found here:
Mister Willcox, 68 wiper motor
68 wiper problems
Willcox
18243
In the late 70's, I had so much problems with the windshield wipers, that I converted my 68 wipers to the 69 wiper system.......this was surprisingly a complicated solution....but I did get them to work correctly a la 69. In the 2004 era when I restored my 68, I installed new 68 lectric limited engine compartment wriing harnesses, new 68 dash board harnesses, and a restored 68 windhield wiper motor. I have never tried to turn on my 68 wipers......I'm just not yet prepared to accept, that as in the 1970's, they don't work.





My suggestion is, if you want it to work and a part needs to be replaced, get it from Willcox, he only sells stuff that works and his parts are US made by his company, and resold by other vendors..If it isnt from willcox, it probably isnt going to work for long....
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Aug 1, 2020 at 09:55 PM.





The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts





1.spend the time and energy of trying to replace the switch in your existing motor
2. replace the motor and save our self the aggravation of trying to replace the switch and spend that time out driving the car and having fun...















I following all the Willcox testing for relays and switches, and final took out the motor. My motor will not park.
When bench testing, the motor runs fast (doesn’t seem quite as fast as hi speed) without contact 1 & 3 grounded. However, it looks like it’s trying to park. When grounding 1 & 3, the park arm is retracted and it runs low speed. When removing 3 from ground, it runs high speed. When reconnecting 3 to ground and removing 1 from ground, it runs fast as before and attempts to park but keeps on running. The parking arm comes out and engages, but the motor does not turn off.
Can I repair this motor? If not, who do you recommend for a high quality rebuilt or new? Should I consider a rebuilt or just get new? The car is a very low mileage all original, so I’d prefer to fix the motor I have if possible.










Time for another bench test!
Time for another bench test!
If the park switch is bad you can usually scavenge one from a different motor from the same or close years... If you need help finding one if it doesn't work, I can probably find you a list of what years used this.
I stopped rebuilding these motors about 5 years ago when the cost exceeded the expected price. Then the new motors came out without a core and that was even better. Thus my statement that the cost to have it rebuilt yourself will exceed the cost of a new or rebuilt motor. I hope this help you understand and a guy in sales told me you called... But I hang out in the service department most of the day and there are no phones out here (by design).... I can't pull someone off a car if I'm not here... Sorry.
E
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Sep 2, 2020 at 05:41 PM.





The 1st pic is the motor with the washer pump removed.
2nd pic shows the parking switch removed and on its side. You can see the lever with the spring attached.
3rd pic is looking in the contact hole. You can see the contact is now open as the copper spring bar is pushed down and visible in the opening.
4th and 5th pics are both looking at the yellow plastic rectangular piece mounted on the copper spring bar. This is where the lever contacts the bar to open the points.
My lever appeared to be bent and would slide past the yellow piece and therefore not depress the bar and open the points. Using a long nosed pliers, I bent it slightly and now contact is made and the points open. Not sure how mine could have gotten bent; more likely it became a bit worn on the shaft and was a bit wobbly. The small spring is very important as it helps keep the lever in place so it contacts the yellow piece.
I'm no electrician, but this is really a mechanical/electric switch, so easy to understand how it works. The challenge is to see inside with the black plastic housing obscuring the view of the copper spring bar and points.
Getting the motor out took more time than the fix. Manual says just remove 3 nuts, but good luck pulling it away from the firewall with the ignition shielding there! I had to pull the shielding up out of the way, which required getting the spark plug wires up out of the way...
But alls well that ends well.
Reassembly tomorrow.











