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I'm getting my rebuilt motor ready for install and went to check the valve lash, most of the rockers are loose which got me wondering. Do I need to get some oil in the lifters before setting the lash?
No...just make sure the up/down slop is out of the pushrod then give the 3/4 turn preload.
They can bleed down and when checking to see if the pushrod spins sometimes push the plunger down unnoticed
No...just make sure the up/down slop is out of the pushrod then give the 3/4 turn preload.
They can bleed down and when checking to see if the pushrod spins sometimes push the plunger down unnoticed
I'm getting my rebuilt motor ready for install and went to check the valve lash, most of the rockers are loose which got me wondering. Do I need to get some oil in the lifters before setting the lash?
The instructions given were for a hydraulic cam...
If you have solid lifters you have to set them using feeler gauges and make sure the lifter is on the base circle.
Every time I see a thread on adjusting lifters I think how much better big and. Small block Mopars have it. Just bolt the shaft down. Why chevy, WHY? LOL
Every time I see a thread on adjusting lifters I think how much better big and. Small block Mopars have it. Just bolt the shaft down. Why chevy, WHY? LOL
I am installing Mopar adjustable rockers on a 340 this coming weekend........
factory settings for hydraulic lifters require for engine to be at operating temp and running. loosen rocker until noisy then tighten until just quiet. this will set lifter to zero lash.
one turn tighter from zero lash to preload lifter.
some folks will modify an old set of valve covers by cutting open the top to gain access for adjustment. I have a set of clips that cover the oil hole in the rocker to deflect oil spray.
also I adjust preload from 1/4 to 1/2 turn, never have had any luck with a full turn.
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Originally Posted by sbdrgrcr
factory settings for hydraulic lifters require for engine to be at operating temp and running. loosen rocker until noisy then tighten until just quiet. this will set lifter to zero lash.
one turn tighter from zero lash to preload lifter.
some folks will modify an old set of valve covers by cutting open the top to gain access for adjustment. I have a set of clips that cover the oil hole in the rocker to deflect oil spray.
also I adjust preload from 1/4 to 1/2 turn, never have had any luck with a full turn.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by sbdrgrcr
factory settings for hydraulic lifters require for engine to be at operating temp and running. loosen rocker until noisy then tighten until just quiet. this will set lifter to zero lash.
one turn tighter from zero lash to preload lifter.
The factory never set valve lash on a hot engine. Valve lash was set on a cold, freshly-built engine during cold engine assembly, and was never re-adjusted again. There is no good reason to set hot lash on a hydraulic-cammed engine.
Lars
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Originally Posted by lars
The factory never set valve lash on a hot engine. Valve lash was set on a cold, freshly-built engine during cold engine assembly, and was never re-adjusted again. There is no good reason to set hot lash on a hydraulic-cammed engine.
Lars
Maybe so, but if you do it our way, you will only have to do it once (less chance of mistake)
Maybe so, but if you do it our way, you will only have to do it once (less chance of mistake)
And if you pay attention when the engine is on the stand....you only have to do it once as well.....
Not only is setting while running not preferred....you can end up with lifters that are plunged all different depths.....
Solids have to be set cold....so what it the difference? One you use a feeler gauge and the other you set the plunger depth....how do you set exact plunger depth on 16 valves? With Poly-Locs....and I have covered the procedure a dozen times on this forum....I haven’t “wiggled” a pushrod in 20 years because you do not have to.....
Not ONE professional engine builder sets hydraulic lash running and neither should you.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by Jebbysan
Not ONE professional engine builder sets hydraulic lash running and neither should you. Jebby
...and nobody sets them on a hot engine, either. Valves are set cold on a non-running engine. No professional engine builder or racer sets valves hot and running.
Lars
...and nobody sets them on a hot engine, either. Valves are set cold on a non-running engine. No professional engine builder or racer sets valves hot and running.
Lars
Only time when hot is when they are checked to see if anything moved......between rounds.....a huge tell to the savvy builder for valvetrain health. And then they are just checked to see if they are the same.
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Originally Posted by Jebbysan
And if you pay attention when the engine is on the stand....you only have to do it once as well.....
.I haven’t “wiggled” a pushrod in 20 years because you do not have to.....
Not ONE professional engine builder sets hydraulic lash running and neither should you. Jebby
We are all not professionals like you. Old school ways were to spin pushrod until resistance was felt and add 3/4 turn. In my case this was close enough to start and break in cam. (I used to) have the modified valve covers and would "reset" the lifter while hot motor running. Never had a noisy lifter under acceleration or idle. not sayin your way is wrong, I just was not able to use it successfully
Originally Posted by Jebbysan
Not only is setting while running not preferred....you can end up with lifters that are plunged all different depths.....
Solids have to be set cold.... Jebby
My motor was assembled by a local major stock car / sprint car motor builder 20 years ago.
Full roller setup solid roller lifters, rockers. When I picked up my motor it was never started. He told me he set it statically but after first start up he gave me the gap spec for the setting valve lash with motor hot, .016 intake, .018 exhaust. being my motor has been together so long it must be correct info. Once a year I go thru this process (correct gaped sold roller setup is clicky by nature)
some 50 years back, had a 1200cc toyota 3kc with pushrods, shaft rockers & solids. Even w/ a crane hot regrind, milled head & mini-lites it was underwhelming.
Before that, it was a lotus cortina; fugly but a right snappy sleeper. Unbeknownst to me, suppose I may've been one of the earliest of "tuners" around those parts.