When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Good afternoon, finally at the stage where I’d like to send my carb off to Lars for a rebuild. I knew this nut could be an issue so I bought a brand new husky 5/8 flare nut wrench and 1” wrench. I made sure both were seated properly and applied pressure until of course it rounded off. I guess at this point I’ve no choice but to cut the metal fuel line? Assuming I can remove the bottom one at the fuel pump will it drain gas from the tank?
Vise grips for the win! Looks like a new metal line is in order now. Happy the filter housing came off without drama. Looking at the vendors seems you can get the line in steel or stainless, any recommendations?
Nothing wrong with steel, but if the new line is already cut to length and flared, then stainless is even better. You wouldn't want to cut and flare stainless yourself. It's very hard to work with.
If you cut the line at the carb you should not have fuel leaking Out the pipe as it is higher than the fuel tank, although it may depend on how full you tank is creating pressure to the line. In any case it could be capped easily to contain the fuel.
once it's cut off you can put a six point socket on the nut.
. Looking at the vendors seems you can get the line in steel or stainless, any recommendations?
Stainless has advantages and disadvantages. Stainless doesn't rust and looks good long term, but it cost more, galls and work hardens. I have not seen the line from the pump to the engine rust. So, in my mind, the only benefit to SS with that section of line is looks. The work hardening makes it hard to work with. Flaring and tweaking the bends is difficult. and getting it to seal is an issue. You car, your money, your choice, but I probably run a carbon steel line there.
Last edited by 2mnyvets; Sep 28, 2020 at 07:15 AM.
Problem with vise grips is that if you set it too tight, you'll goose-egg the nut and be worse off than before. Been there, done that, shirt doesn't fit anymore.
Cut the line and take out the big nut and start from scratch.
The OP used vise grips and got it off back in Post #6. Now he's going to put on a new line from the pump up to the carb. To the OP, I'd go with the regular steel line as opposed to the stainless steel. My original steel line is almost 50 years old and still looks fine. Good luck.
Duane
Do not use a regular vise grip!!!!! THIS Special nut/bolt head Vise Grip is the greatest TOOL made...BUY 2^^^^^^^^^^^^^^. I have never stripped a bolt or nut using this tool...NEVER!
... The work hardening makes it hard to work with. Flaring and tweaking the bends is difficult. and getting it to seal is an issue. You car, your money, your choice, but I probably run a carbon steel line there.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by Always5s
Looking at the vendors seems you can get the line in steel or stainless, any recommendations?
Use a standard, mild steel line - skip the stainless. The steel line will seal with lower nut torque, will not gall, and will cause you much less grief than the SS. There is a reason the factory used mild steel lines on all pressure lines on the car...
Flare nut rounded off
