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proportioning valve - faulty

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Old Nov 1, 2020 | 10:38 AM
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Default proportioning valve - faulty

what would be the symptoms of a faulty proportioning valve on a 78 vette?

would it allow more pressure/fluid to the rear calipers?

thanks



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Old Nov 2, 2020 | 07:58 PM
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Is the "BRAKE" light illuminated on the dash?
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Old Nov 4, 2020 | 04:48 PM
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There is no "proportional" valve in any C3 (unless installed by an owner). It is a distribution block which sends brake fluid pressure to either the front wheel calipers, the rear wheel calipers or to both. The system is designed so that a leak in either the front or rear caliper set will cause a shuttle valve [inside that block] to shift such that the leaking side will be blocked from receiving pressurized brake fluid. If that occurs, the "BRAKE" warning light on the dash cluster should inform the driver of a problem with the brake system.

The ratio of braking power from front to back is incorporated into the design of the braking system and is NOT a function of the distribution block.
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Old Nov 4, 2020 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by corvettedave383
what would be the symptoms of a faulty proportioning valve on a 78 vette?

would it allow more pressure/fluid to the rear calipers?

thanks
The Proportioning Valve seldom goes bad. Usually if anything, the rear brakes are proportioned of fluid due to a leak downstream, getting less fluid when pedal is applied.
If you are not getting enough fluid pressure to the fronts, maybe the front rubber hoses are at fault.

Not sure where your question is going here.
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Old Nov 5, 2020 | 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by jts90vette
Is the "BRAKE" light illuminated on the dash?
The first and most important question.
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Old Nov 5, 2020 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
The Proportioning Valve seldom goes bad. Usually if anything, the rear brakes are proportioned of fluid due to a leak downstream, getting less fluid when pedal is applied.
If you are not getting enough fluid pressure to the fronts, maybe the front rubber hoses are at fault.

Not sure where your question is going here.
Actually they can go bad. Once the rubber o-ring seals inside the unit start to disintegrate, the valve will not operate correctly. Mine were 45 years old, nothing last forever. You can either buy a replacement or rebuild yours. Here’s a pic of mine when I rebuilt it, with the new parts in the bag.
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Old Nov 6, 2020 | 09:10 AM
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I just removed my valve, ran the rear brake line to the rear section of the master cyl.....which is aluminum BTW, and hydro boost......and put a splitter/coupler in the front brake lines that runs to the front/forward of the m/cylinder.....solid as a rock for some 20 years.....and before the FIX was done, it was nothing but weird/spongy brake action....DOT 5 fluid too BTW......

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Old Nov 6, 2020 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by mrvette
I just removed my valve, ran the rear brake line to the rear section of the master cyl.....which is aluminum BTW, and hydro boost......and put a splitter/coupler in the front brake lines that runs to the front/forward of the m/cylinder.....solid as a rock for some 20 years.....and before the FIX was done, it was nothing but weird/spongy brake action....DOT 5 fluid too BTW......
This is the real fix. I was installing the front brake line lock for drag racing and decided that a simple splitter/coupler was the best fix when rerouting my brake lines. One for the front and one for the back. It also seemed to me that the stock spliter valve was right next to my headers. Not a good thing either. My headers are glowing on long periods of WOT. Hot enough that I melted Energy Suspension poly locking red motor mounts.
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Old Nov 7, 2020 | 07:56 PM
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Someone mentioned "rubber hoses" may be at fault. Just an interesting note about something I found on one of my vehicles that could apply to vettes also. I replaced the brake rubber hoses on my truck recently because when the brakes were applied, the truck would pull to the left or right. I found that the old hoses (2001 year model original hoses) were all but completely stopped up. The hoses incorporated some metal brackets for mounting to the "A" arm and the metal over the years had actually rusted causing the rubber hoses to be squeezed almost shut. After removing the old hoses, I could not blow compressed air through it. Cut the hose apart to verify what was happening. After the new hoses, the truck stopped straight, no pulling at all. Just a thought.
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