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1971 Automatic stopping takes forever

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Old Nov 5, 2020 | 07:38 PM
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Default 1971 Automatic stopping takes forever

Hi all,

I have just changed master cylinder and booster, calipers all seem ok as well as pads but still takes forever with my foot all the way pressed down to stop. Is that normal? Is there something I should be trying?

Thanks
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Old Nov 5, 2020 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Sweetlou72
Hi all,

I have just changed master cylinder and booster, calipers all seem ok as well as pads but still takes forever with my foot all the way pressed down to stop. Is that normal? Is there something I should be trying?

Thanks
No, it's not normal. The pedal should not go all the way down. Sounds like another go at bleeding is in order.
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Old Nov 5, 2020 | 10:08 PM
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That is what I will try first. If that is not the issue, any other suggestion?
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Old Nov 5, 2020 | 10:41 PM
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If your pedal goes all the way down and the car won't stop, that is the issue. No other suggestions needed - bleed the brakes.
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Old Nov 5, 2020 | 10:43 PM
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Thanks Lars.
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Old Nov 6, 2020 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by lars
If your pedal goes all the way down and the car won't stop, that is the issue. No other suggestions needed - bleed the brakes.
BUT to that which is obvious, I have to add in about pulling that silly brake light switch from under the master cyl, mounted to the frame, take the rear brake line to the m/cyl rear section directly, put in a splitter for the front end and run it to the forward section of the master cylinder.....then bleed the brakes.....my '72 had more stupid brake issues, and I finally spotted that damn 'prop valve/switch' removed it and car been fine for nearly 20 years now.......but it is true that I also went hydroboost on the brakes, and aluminum master cylinder, and even my own rack steering......and of course SS lined calipers came with the car some 25 years ago.....and so I put in O ring pistons of course.....OH, I use DOT 5 brake fluid too.....
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Old Nov 6, 2020 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by mrvette
oh, i use dot 5 brake fluid too.....
<gasp>
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Old Nov 7, 2020 | 07:40 PM
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If brake bleeding doesn't fix the problem I would check that the clearance between the master cylinder piston and brake booster pushrod is correct.
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Old Nov 7, 2020 | 09:19 PM
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if the bleeding is successful and it still doesnt stop, you could scuff the discs and use ceramic pads,
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Old Nov 7, 2020 | 09:22 PM
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If the brake bleed is successful and it still doesnt stop, then try scuffing the discs and using ceramic pads. I used my car on a track day, overheated brand new organic pads and the next day the pads were stone hard and wouldnt stop a golf cart. A little scuff and ceramics and they stop faster than Rosie Odonell passing an Ice cream truck.
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 07:23 PM
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Do you know the diameter or size of the vacuum hose from booster to intake manifold? I have been getting different answers and I know you guys know. THanks
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Old Nov 14, 2020 | 10:19 PM
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The 2 things that stand out are the adjustment of your booster and the fact your pedal goes to the floor. I just went thru hell bleeding the brakes on my 76. Did you use the tool that came with your new booster? It measures the offset from the pedal, and your old booster gives the tool the offset for the new one. Also, did you use the screw in pin to keep the distribution block from internally moving while bleeding? I couldn't get my brakes properly bled until I got one and then I could get them bled properly. Hopefully this all makes sense, if not, let me know. I honestly think you just haven't gotten them bled properly. Trust me, I went thru hell getting mine bled properly!
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