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I am going to use the felpro cork gaskets and seal them to the valve cover and straighten them as best I can. No sealant between gasket and heads. The rail along the top of the heads the cover sits on is not machined, its a raw cast surface which worries me it but sounds like this shouldn't be a issue. I will get to it this weekend.
Thanks all!!
You can just hit the head sealing surface with scotch-brite pad (green or white, green is more aggressive) to knock the crud off and clean up and dirt or small casting bumps (if cast iron).
I am going to use the felpro cork gaskets and seal them to the valve cover and straighten them as best I can. No sealant between gasket and heads. The rail along the top of the heads the cover sits on is not machined, its a raw cast surface which worries me it but sounds like this shouldn't be a issue. I will get to it this weekend.
Thanks all!!
Originally Posted by Jebbysan
Throw the steel covers away and get a pair of L-82 Valve covers........1/4" studs and nyloc nuts.....glue a standard cork gasket to the cover and slide over the studs. Tighten and shut the hood.
Steel covers are miserable things.....especially when they are old. They "cone" out at the hole and require spreaders. The aluminum L-82 covers look better and seal easy.
Don't overthink this.......a flat valve cover will seal against the head with no sealant at all. GM didn't use any!
Jebby
Seriously consider using the studs that Jebbysan suggested.
They make getting the valve cover and gasket positioned properly much easier and repeatable.
Seriously consider using the studs that Jebbysan suggested.
They make getting the valve cover and gasket positioned properly much easier and repeatable.
and if going to l82 aluminum valve cover you need longer bolts depending on gasket.. wish i knew this tip of studs before i did mine.. life would be easier.. @wendellp601 second best avitar makes me laugh every time....
Last edited by interpon; Nov 21, 2020 at 01:29 PM.
Is there somewhere I can buy the studs or do I need to cut them from threaded rod?
Thanks
Wendell is right, Summit.
In the search box enter: Valve Cover Stud kit SBC. Should be eight. If you search studs you will need diameter, pitch & length. You will have to double-nut them to install. But the kits special studs have a phillips end for easy installing.
Then you will need something cool, decorative, to fit on the valve covers. Or not.
They have a hex socket in the end for installation with an Allen wrench.. I put a dab of blue Loctite on the end of the stud that went into the cylinder head.
I just did this on my L48 ... first time I've done this in 30 years, too.
raised on cork and clear RTV. never had a problem ... but OReillys didn't have clear RTV .... nor cork gaskets. So, I have black RTV and rubber gaskets, which I had to trim.
ditto the clean/clear surface for silicone. that's a challenge on the textured surface of the head ... and keeping the debris from falling into the "pit" (mercy, I'm losing my mind ... where the pushrods/lifters are above the block ... that area between the block and the intake manifold.
But so far, it's sealed up nice. The bolts were barely finger tight on those cast aluminum covers.
Guys how do I get all this old permatex rtv off the head that's stuck to the cast surface? I would think it has to very clean to seal the cork surface. A putty knife? Is there a solvent to lift this stuff.?
[QUOTE=ren80;1602552352]Guys how do I get all this old permatex rtv off the head that's stuck to the cast surface? I would think it has to very clean to seal the cork surface. A putty knife? Is there a solvent to lift this stuff.?
brass brish worked for me..use rags and vacuum any bits dropped and out of engine.. Then solvent wipe clean..can even use scotchbrite. I had red rtv everywhere
Last edited by interpon; Nov 22, 2020 at 09:42 PM.
I got it back together but I had to disconnect the fuel line at carb. I can't get the fuel fitting to seal after putting it back together. Leaking at the carb fitting. There is a thin nylon washer that I reused. seems to leaking from that joint. Do I need to use a new washer? How tight does that fitting have to be? I know nothing is cross threaded I can thread it by hand. Should I use Teflon tape?
On cork gaskets in aluminum covers I use the shellac to glue the cork in place then bolt the covers face to face to set the gaskets - prior to installation on the car I then wipe the sealing edge which goes against the head with some axle grease so it will release the next time I remove them.
I have always been able to remove covers without sticking or incident.
Pretty much what I do . You can take some thread and tie the gaskets in place too and then some motor oil on. The bottom of the gasket.but as I mentioned before I use Mr Gasket or something comparable not those thin crappy gaskets.
Guys I got the covers installed and they look good. But I had to disconnect the fuel line at the carb. I can't get it it to reseal and its leaking alot of fuel. I may have damaged the small nylon gasket in the inlet. Can I use sealer on threads or or do I need to find another gasket? How tight should that inlet nut be be torqued to?
Guys I got the covers installed and they look good. But I had to disconnect the fuel line at the carb. I can't get it it to reseal and its leaking alot of fuel. I may have damaged the small nylon gasket in the inlet. Can I use sealer on threads or or do I need to find another gasket? How tight should that inlet nut be be torqued to?
Very tight!
But seriously, is it leaking from the filter housing and the carb body, or between the filter housing and the fuel line (from the pump)?
Be sure to use a 1" open end wrench to hold the fuel filter housing while tightening the fuel line fitting into it.
