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starter problem ??

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Old Nov 20, 2020 | 06:48 AM
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Default starter problem ??

so i had hooker headers and exhaust installed on my 81 vette about 3 weeks ago. if i drive the vette 10 miles than pull into my drive way turn the key off. and try to restart it the engine groans or it seems like the battery is almost dead it well fire but labors to do it. checked battery 100% charged park car after 10 miles check battery with key off and it still starts hard. wait 1 hour turn key on fires right up. the starter is only 4 months old. is the heat from my headers doing this to my starter???
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Old Nov 20, 2020 | 08:48 AM
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Could very well be, heat soaked.
The stock exhaust had one pipe coming off the manifold and past the starter. With headers, you now have "four" exhaust pipes running past the starter.

I would recommend either a starter shield or a starter blanket to protect that. The shields require some bolt alignment to attach. Where as the blanket is more universal fit. Check out Summit for the blanket material. It would completely engulf the starter, solenoid and wire harness. Some come with two stainless straps to secure it.

The solenoids usually come with two types of wiring terminal caps. The black units are cheaper and don't do as well with heat issues. A better cap (on better starters) is brown and made of ceramic. Much better as far as corrosion & heat resistance.

And make sure you have a GRD cable from block to frame near the starter and its in good shape.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Nov 20, 2020 at 08:52 AM.
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Old Nov 20, 2020 | 11:58 AM
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Your problem is most likely with the engine grounding cable running from right side frame to right side engine mount. If you do not have one, you NEED it! If you have one, chances are that one of the mounting connections is defective OR that the wire inside the insulation has deteriorated to the point that its resistance has increased and is very heat sensitive. If you find "issues" with that cable, do yourself a favor and REPLACE IT!!
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Old Nov 20, 2020 | 12:26 PM
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ground ground ground on my car its a blown bb i have a ton of heat my ground cable runs from the starter mounting bolt directly to the battery, and i use the ford 4 post starter relay to relocate the relay away from the header it starts like any car should no hesitation or drag hot or cold, i have seen in the past where the ground cable that runs from the motor to the chassis gets a small tear or pin hole in the jacketing and it turns that section green and you cant see it but it will act as a big resistor and any slight temp increase will slow the AMPERAGE flow down not the voltage amps is was drives or pushes the force or torque,
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Old Nov 20, 2020 | 12:38 PM
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Read up on making or getting a remote starting switch you can temporarily use to power the starter motor, use this when the engine is hot and won't turn over properly, if it starts okay then you know its not the starter motor or the main positive cable from the battery and can look elsewhere for the cause. Could be as mentioned the grounding cable or a problem in the key switch circuit, in my case it was the key switch contacts were worn out. If an auto you also have the switch that stops the car from being cranked in anything other than park or neutral, this is part of the key switch circuit too.
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Old Nov 20, 2020 | 01:04 PM
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That's a good idea about the remote starter button tool. They can be had for around $25. Real handy tool for setting valvelash too.

Normally, like Haggisbash mentioned the neutral switch & IGN switch could be culprits in a "No Crank" situation. But because everything is fine after a one hour cool-down, the issue is likely heat related. Those two switches are not near heat.
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Old Nov 20, 2020 | 01:15 PM
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yes but if you use the the 4 terminal ford relay all you need is the plunger button and 2 sections of wire now you have moved the relay from the heat, made a remote start that can be mounted in the car
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Old Nov 20, 2020 | 01:48 PM
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thanks for the replys ordered a starter blanket from summit right away
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Old Nov 20, 2020 | 01:54 PM
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grounding cables has been a major part of my problem my mechanic has replaced all of them i hope, the last thing he had to replace was 2 inline fuses that were bad. i think the starter blanket might be the answer as i posted. every time i get 2 feet ahead this thing knocks me back 1 foot. it at times i post here and get your great answers and copy them and take it to my mechanic. again thanks all for your replys
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Old Nov 20, 2020 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Edward Ackley
thanks for the replys ordered a starter blanket from summit right away
When you go to install the blanket, disconnect the NEG cable at the batt.
The blanket slips in & over starter, solenoid & harness easily. The stainless clamps can be troublesome so take your time. If you can, put one of the seams of the ends of the blanket facing down. If you have any oil leaks (valve cover) the blanket can hold or pool up with oil. Not good, for the starter. You may want to cut a small slit in the bottom of the blanket to allow oil or water to drain out.
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Old Nov 20, 2020 | 05:53 PM
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thanks for the reply on the blanket, talked to the summit rep i believe they are now attached by velcro, lucky no oil leaks except power steering hope this works tired of chasing problems. have droped over $5,000 in it in the last 18 months
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Old Nov 20, 2020 | 06:07 PM
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No. You didn't drop five Gs. You invested 5 Gs and are awaiting returns. (or something like that)

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Nov 20, 2020 at 06:08 PM.
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Old Nov 20, 2020 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
That's a good idea about the remote starter button tool. They can be had for around $25. Real handy tool for setting valvelash too.

Normally, like Haggisbash mentioned the neutral switch & IGN switch could be culprits in a "No Crank" situation. But because everything is fine after a one hour cool-down, the issue is likely heat related. Those two switches are not near heat.
Thats the thing, mine would start when cold but hot the ignition switch couldn't make contact so no start until it cooled down.
regards
HB
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Old Nov 21, 2020 | 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Haggisbash
Thats the thing, mine would start when cold but hot the ignition switch couldn't make contact so no start until it cooled down.
regards
HB
I would bet a Chili Dog, Fries and a Root Beer Float that it was your solenoid, Haggisbash.
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Old Nov 21, 2020 | 08:29 AM
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again thanks for the replies. my starter blanket is on the way, tracking says this sunday doubt that probely monday will get it will post results
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Old Nov 21, 2020 | 09:26 AM
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I have an 81 and had problems similar to you(no start when hot) this happened many times. Starter and solenoid checked good, added blanket and still problems. After chasing problem for months I got new ignition module. When going to put new module in discovered the thermal paste under the ignition module was dryed out. Cleaned off and put new thermal grease on old module and haven't had the problem for over a year. I'm not saying this is your problem, but something easy to check and non expensive to try.
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Old Nov 21, 2020 | 10:36 AM
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I had the same problem after installing a set of Kooks ceramic coated headers. It was driving me crazy. My solution, a Larva starter heart shield (rap around) Part # HSP-501071 $45.95
After you install it, your going to have to find your starters sweet spot with the shield. It took me a couple of runs. Now I'm out on the weekends for my 75 mile non-stop cruse. Pull her into the garage. Turn her off, hit the key and she's there for me. Hope this helps.
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Old Nov 21, 2020 | 11:56 AM
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thank you copied your post for future reference
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Old Nov 21, 2020 | 11:58 AM
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gregs i believe thats the same heat shield i ordered. email says i should get it tomorrow which is sunday
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 09:38 PM
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Did you by chance buy an Autozone starter?

I only ask because I have had terrible service from Autozone regarding anything electrical.


Last edited by ykf7b0; Nov 29, 2020 at 09:41 PM.
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