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Hello. I have a 69 that I'm putting new shocks on. I've done shocks on many cars before, usually a case of off they go, new ones on and tighten everything up. This one has me wondering about something. I looked at the A.I.M. out of curiosity. Great amount of info in there. The AIM (page J183) says to tighten the lower nut 30-40 ft. lbs. with the vehicle at "D" height specified for rear geometry setting. What does the "D" height etc. part mean?
Should I torque it with the weight of the car on the ground, jacked up or am I over thinking this. Thanks and take care.
Hello. I have a 69 that I'm putting new shocks on. I've done shocks on many cars before, usually a case of off they go, new ones on and tighten everything up. This one has me wondering about something. I looked at the A.I.M. out of curiosity. Great amount of info in there. The AIM (page J183) says to tighten the lower nut 30-40 ft. lbs. with the vehicle at "D" height specified for rear geometry setting. What does the "D" height etc. part mean?
Should I torque it with the weight of the car on the ground, jacked up or am I over thinking this. Thanks and take care.
For the rears, I would simply make sure that you jack as necessary to make sure: 1) you are safe, 2) you have good access to apply the torque properly, 3) the shock slips easily over the mount before installing the washer and nut. I've just done a body off on my 69 and am waiting until the car is fully assembled before I attach the rears as the suspension is too far extended to allow the shock to be attached.
Hello, I will take a guess at your question of what does "D" height mean. I will guess at Drive height, meaning that the car should then be on the ground. Just a guess though.
The "D" height is GM's term for the rear ride height. There is a procedure in the shop manual on how to measure it. I don't have one in front of me but it may say tire pressures set to spec, 1/2 or full tank of fuel, with or without driver weight. "Z" height is the front.
I can't see where it makes any difference if the car is in the air or on the ground as far as the torque values.
I have my car on a QJ and raised the trailing arms until the half shafts were level and then torqued. I hope this will be ok. Have not put car on ground yet.
jacking the trailing arm until the half shaft is level should be just fine. those bushings really don't move much. I am certain that will be close enough.
The rear shock is mounted on a "pin" that is supported by the rear wheel bearing support. This "pin" also holds the strut rod in place, This pin is securely mounted and there is no more pressure on the shock if it is in the air or if it is on the ground. It does not matter if the shock is on a Corvette or a pickup truck as far a mounting the thing, wheel in the air or on the ground.
your missing the point gg. as that "Pin" moves from the very bottom of it's total travel, to the very top. (hitting the bump stop). it rotates or twists. the idea is to torque down that rubber bushing in approximately the center of it's rotation. so the bushing twists a little one way on the way up, and the other way on the way down with no deflection or neutral at normal ride height.
Last edited by 4-vettes; Nov 26, 2020 at 03:08 AM.
your missing the point gg. as that "Pin" moves from the very bottom of it's total travel, to the very top. (hitting the bump stop). it rotates or twists. the idea is to torque down that rubber bushing in approximately the center of it's rotation. so the bushing twists a little one way on the way up, and the other way on the way down with no deflection or neutral at normal ride height.
Your statement that there is twisting is a bit misleading. Yes, the trailing arm moves in a very, very large radius. That radius is not equal to the length of the distance to the pivot point on the differential. The strut rod keeps that up and down movement fairly vertical or the rear wheel camber would change constantly as the wheel moves up and down, so that radius is huge. So the bottom shock mount follows that same huge radius as it follows the trailing arm as it moves up and down. There is very, very little rotation relative to the bottom shock mount as it moves up and down (if any). Any movement within the bottom of the shock is not significant enough to make a difference in the torque value of the nut to hold the bottom on. Has anyone ever heard where the lower shock mount nut has been an issue?
Well, folks can follow 'guidelines' on assembly....or not. Do what you will.........
Thank You, Thank You. Its very comforting and reassuring to know that we have your permission to do what we already know is the ok thing to do. It may not follow the strict GM guidelines but I think they will cut us some slack. Thanks again.
Oh, you are immensely welcome. Equally welcome to the amount of 'thanks' from you, I'm sure.
Save your sarcasm for another day.. This wasn't your thread, anyway.
I was not going to respond to your previous comment but I could not help it with your superior, holier than thou attitude. That attitude has shown itself on this and other threads too. (which really prompted my response ) Just to be clear, this is not your thread either. I was answering the question and clarifying my answer ( right or wrong ) regarding the shock nut. Which I did. Then you chimed in.
As I see it, this forum is comprised of a few groups. One group has a couple of experts in their field. Then there is a small group who have good general knowledge. The largest group is just stating their opinion, which is ok. Then there is a small group of people making gratuitous comments. Not hard to figure in which group you fall.
Get your dander up pretty easy...eh, youngster? Someone wants the OP to 'cut corners' on how to do a job, I'll share my 2 cents...which I did. I don't recall you being elected as 'policeman' for this thread. I didn't insult you or anyone else. On the other hand, you are just an a@@h0le.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Nov 28, 2020 at 04:49 PM.