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I have changed the water pump to a correct '69 pump to ensure the fan is perfectly centered - no change
Correct, unbent, unbroken 5 blade fan
Thanks for any input.
Sammy
I'm just throwing this out there, and I'm sure yours is correct. Does your '69 water pump have a 5/8" shaft along with a 5/8" fan clutch?
I bought my '71 when it was 4 years old and the original owner replaced the 3/4" shaft water pump with a 5/8" shaft water pump.
Since the '71 fan clutch is a 3/4", it caused a weird look at idle, like something was out of round.
I thought is was an illusion until I removed the fan clutch and discovered the mismatch. I installed the correct 3/4" water pump and problem solved.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I would disconnect the tranny and check the flywheel bolts to see if they are loose. IF that isnt it , after all you have replaced, I would then pull it apart and check the engine balance. You said somethng about the pulleys wobbling, is the front dampner bolt in tight?
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
You siad this was a 90s build so I am guessing the caar was fine and this started a few months ago. Is this correct? If so yo ucan pull everything off the front of the motor and start it without any pulleys for a few minutes while cold. It doesnt have to have the water pump spinning for a minute to see if the vibration goes away
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Nov 30, 2020 at 12:04 PM.
I'm just throwing this out there, and I'm sure yours is correct. Does your '69 water pump have a 5/8" shaft along with a 5/8" fan clutch?
I bought my '71 when it was 4 years old and the original owner replaced the 3/4" shaft water pump with a 5/8" shaft water pump.
Since the '71 fan clutch is a 3/4", it caused a weird look at idle, like something was out of round.
I thought is was an illusion until I removed the fan clutch and discovered the mismatch. I installed the correct 3/4" water pump and problem solved.
Good thought. Both are 5/8 and the fan clutch is a snug fit on the shaft.
I would disconnect the tranny and check the flywheel bolts to see if they are loose. IF that isnt it , after all you have replaced, I would then pull it apart and check the engine balance. You said somethng about the pulleys wobbling, is the front dampner bolt in tight?
Possible, but the new clutch package (including flywheel) was just installed as I thought it was an improperly balanced flywheel. Properly torqued. Yes, I mentioned that the pulleys are not wobbling. Pretty sure about the damper bolts...but worth a quick check.
You siad this was a 90s build so I am guessing the caar was fine and this started a few months ago. Is this correct? If so yo ucan pull everything off the front of the motor and start it without any pulleys for a few minutes while cold. It doesnt have to have the water pump spinning for a minute to see if the vibration goes away
Yep, I did that previously. The vibration is slightly less when just sitting there (clutch in or out) but seems more pronounced under load.
What kind of fan do you have on the engine? (stock, thermal, flex-fan?) I agree that, after the engine has been warmed up and then shut down, you should just remove water pump, power steering and any smog related belts, then fire it and rev it up to see if the vibration is still there. If it is, your problem is in the engine or engine-to-transmission interface somewhere. If the vibration is gone, you have a 'front-end accessory' problem.
What kind of fan do you have on the engine? (stock, thermal, flex-fan?) I agree that, after the engine has been warmed up and then shut down, you should just remove water pump, power steering and any smog related belts, then fire it and rev it up to see if the vibration is still there. If it is, your problem is in the engine or engine-to-transmission interface somewhere. If the vibration is gone, you have a 'front-end accessory' problem.
Stock 5 blade fan. Nothing bent or broken. The AIR pump does have some side to side shaft movement but I previously removed that belt and ran the engine to see if that was the source to no effect. I have run the car without the fan, fan belt, power steering pump belt...even just on the battery so no alternator belt. No change.
I am thinking about ignition...maybe there is one or more cylinders not firing regularly. Just not sure it would cause such a vibration in the upper RPM range. I would think it would get masked by the other cylinders as engine speed increased.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
YOu might be stuck diassembling it and rechecking the internal balance incase something has changed. If the crank had heavy metal added to it then it fell out then it would effect the balance. If this was a new build and it was vibrating since the first start then it wouldnt be an issue but to start vibrating after so many miles have been put on it then it has to be a change in the balance. Internal balanced engines generally dont have weights added except for the crank. on the outside the flywheel may have weights added and the damper may. If it was externally balanced like a big block or a 383 then I could see a weight coming off.
If you do pull it apart it will generally only cost you the price of a new set of seals and gaskets. while its a part oyu can re ring it and give it a fresh hone to rough up the cylinders....maybe a bigger cam...or some nice domed pistons....
Have you made sure the bell housing to block bolts are all tight? Many years ago I had freshened up the engine in my ''69 Vette and reinstalled it. One of the folks helping was a friend of a friend. My bad for not checking, but the bolts he was on there did not get tightened. Based on the vibration, I feared that the engine balancing had been badly botched. I found the loose bolts, torqued them properly, and life was wonderful. Best of luck.
YOu might be stuck diassembling it and rechecking the internal balance incase something has changed. If the crank had heavy metal added to it then it fell out then it would effect the balance. If this was a new build and it was vibrating since the first start then it wouldnt be an issue but to start vibrating after so many miles have been put on it then it has to be a change in the balance. Internal balanced engines generally dont have weights added except for the crank. on the outside the flywheel may have weights added and the damper may. If it was externally balanced like a big block or a 383 then I could see a weight coming off.
If you do pull it apart it will generally only cost you the price of a new set of seals and gaskets. while its a part oyu can re ring it and give it a fresh hone to rough up the cylinders....maybe a bigger cam...or some nice domed pistons....
Have you made sure the bell housing to block bolts are all tight? Many years ago I had freshened up the engine in my ''69 Vette and reinstalled it. One of the folks helping was a friend of a friend. My bad for not checking, but the bolts he was on there did not get tightened. Based on the vibration, I feared that the engine balancing had been badly botched. I found the loose bolts, torqued them properly, and life was wonderful. Best of luck.
I'm just throwing this out there, and I'm sure yours is correct. Does your '69 water pump have a 5/8" shaft along with a 5/8" fan clutch?
I bought my '71 when it was 4 years old and the original owner replaced the 3/4" shaft water pump with a 5/8" shaft water pump.
Since the '71 fan clutch is a 3/4", it caused a weird look at idle, like something was out of round.
I thought is was an illusion until I removed the fan clutch and discovered the mismatch. I installed the correct 3/4" water pump and problem solved.
I also had this problem and corrected it before driving the car with a spacer insert that came with a new clutch to fit the 5/8" shaft to center it. You could see the fan wobble a bit at idle.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Nov 30, 2020 at 06:52 PM.
1. Put a vacuum gauge on the car and rev to the vibration zone to see what the gauge is doing. This may identify an engine related issue I am not considering.
2. Compression test
3. Use a known good distributor to eliminate possible ignition issues (thanks Rescue Rogers)
4. Recheck accessories
5. Replace solid engine mounts with stock rubber mounts (i have them, so why not?)
6. Confirm bell housing and trans mount bolt torques
7. Change the chambered under car exhaust back to stock (very unlikely a resonance issue...but, I have the stuff so again, why not?)
8. Pull the trans and change the new flywheel (25 lbs) back to the stock original and line up the dowel holes...even though aligning it shouldn't make any difference, but the increase FW weight may make a difference
9. Pull oil pan and confirm main cap torque values
10. Pull engine for a rebuild.
Anything else?
Its a shame this issue exists...the car is very nice. No hit body. Beautiful frame. Clean, numbers matching.
I'm curious about the solid motor mounts. Are they supposed to be better, last longer, a common upgrade etc?
Creates a stressed member out of the engine resulting in better handling, but can transmit more vibration through the chassis. It would be difficult, but not impossible to break a solid mount. The rubber on the stockers absorbs engine vibes.
Fairly common change..."upgrade" is relative to the person. Will generally last forever.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
we used to do it all the time as kids. The old style motor mounts were pretty week and you could easily make you engine dance in the engien compartment. The guys with "High" torque motors used short lengths of chain to keep the engine from really flopping around
1. Put a vacuum gauge on the car and rev to the vibration zone to see what the gauge is doing. This may identify an engine related issue I am not considering.
2. Compression test
3. Use a known good distributor to eliminate possible ignition issues (thanks Rescue Rogers)
4. Recheck accessories
5. Replace solid engine mounts with stock rubber mounts (i have them, so why not?)
6. Confirm bell housing and trans mount bolt torques
7. Change the chambered under car exhaust back to stock (very unlikely a resonance issue...but, I have the stuff so again, why not?)
8. Pull the trans and change the new flywheel (25 lbs) back to the stock original and line up the dowel holes...even though aligning it shouldn't make any difference, but the increase FW weight may make a difference
9. Pull oil pan and confirm main cap torque values
10. Pull engine for a rebuild.
Anything else?
Its a shame this issue exists...the car is very nice. No hit body. Beautiful frame. Clean, numbers matching.
I would start with the things that don't cost anything and take the least time to do. I hope it's something simple.