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My wipers door would usually open, however wouldn't close properly. I am replacing my vacuum lines, any good bench test instructions or ways to tell if the actuator is working properly?
My wipers door would usually open, however wouldn't close properly. I am replacing my vacuum lines, any good bench test instructions or ways to tell if the actuator is working properly?
you should be able to suck or blow on either end and move it...
Buy a Mity-vac. Invaluable for vacuum troubleshooting wiper doors and headlights. Yes, all that's in there is a diaphragm, put vacuum on one side and the difference in pressure moves the diaphragm which has the rod connected to in. Diaphragm moves, rod moves. You could pull vacuum on one port then put your finger over it quickly after you see the rod move and see if it holds vacuum as well. That's where a Mity-vac can help. It will hold a vacuum for you until you release it.
BTW - see that rubber plug on the back. That is there if you have total failure. Pull the plug and stick your finger or other device in there to raise the door. Just make sure you don't punch a hole in the diaphragm if you use a screwdriver or something like that. Also, that plug is the seal for that side of the can. If it's leaking it will degrade movement or even keep the actuator from working.
Last edited by theandies; Dec 9, 2020 at 05:51 PM.
Buy a Mity-vac. Invaluable for vacuum troubleshooting wiper doors and headlights. Yes, all that's in there is a diaphragm, put vacuum on one side and the difference in pressure moves the diaphragm which has the rod connected to in. Diaphragm moves, rod moves. You could pull vacuum on one port then put your finger over it quickly after you see the rod move and see if it holds vacuum as well. That's where a Mity-vac can help. It will hold a vacuum for you until you release it.
Great when I blow on one end the rod goes out and if I suck it comes back in. I did notice if the rod extends all the way out it seems to get stuck. Should this rod be lubricated somehow?
Since it's a sealed unit I wouldn't know how to lube it up if it even needs it. Maybe try something that won't harm/degrade rubber. With it installed there are going to be a series of hard stops on the wiper door etc. which should prevent the diaphragm from moving to it's extreme. Also, the rod is adjustable so that will keep it from moving all the way too. If you don't already have one I suggest you get the AIM for your year. Assembly instruction manual. It has the rod adjustment procedure in it and that may be your problem if it's not adjusted correctly.
Seems to me if you wanted to lube it then you cold pour/spray some lubricant (what was that? Teflon? Silicone?) in there and swish it around, then pour it out......
I have the piepan type on my 68 and I had repair it a couple of years ago with a new grommet. I put it in and it subsequently fell/slipped out. I ended up cleaning it all up and RTVing it in place.
Seems to me if you wanted to lube it then you cold pour/spray some lubricant (what was that? Teflon? Silicone?) in there and switch it around, then pour it out......
I have the piepan type on my 68 and I had repair it a couple of years ago with a new grommet. I put it in and it subsequently fell/slipped out. I ended up cleaning it all up and RTVing it in place.
So the can style is not a diaphragm but a piston. Interesting. That may be why it's sticking at one end of travel. If the OP is not into originality then he should switch over to the pie-pan style which I'm pretty sure its a diaphragm. Never took one apart but I don't see how a piston would work in the pie-pan configuration.
From his last post I think it's ok. I'd spray some lubricant in there, swish it around, pour it out and see how it works.
True but looking at the one in the cutaway and that he stated it sticks the lube may work but it's still 50+ years old. I'm sure it's pretty nasty in there and worn to boot. Anyway, I always like nice new shiny parts!
haha...yeah, I agree on the shiny new parts. I'd try it just to see if I could get it working. Hell, I'd spray some carb cleaner in there first and see what comes out. If it felt ok, then I'd spray lubricant in there to see if I could make it work.
Originally Posted by theandies
True but looking at the one in the cutaway and that he stated it sticks the lube may work but it's still 50+ years old. I'm sure it's pretty nasty in there and worn to boot. Anyway, I always like nice new shiny parts!
I was thinking more of lubricating the rod that comes out. I’ll have to find that page now in the AIM, I didn’t think it would get that specific. Anyway I stripped the part now I’ll paint with the zinc yellow color
1969 wiper canister - test
