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Another way to tell is to get a small magnet and check for relative ease of ability to pull the magnet away from the wall of the bore. Stainless is non-magnetic but the thin wall of the stainless sleeve and the large mass of cast iron around it will allow the magnet to “attach”.
I just did “pull” test on one of mine and there is a clear difference between the amount of magnetic attraction between the stainless sleeve (as tested in the middle of the sleeve) and the casting.
One more question, is there a consensus on what brake pads are best for street driving (not racing)? I'm looking for good brake performance that won't wear down the rotor too much (I heard semi-metallics wear down the rotor more than organics and ceramics). Does anyone use the ceramic brakes at Autozone? I saw some people supporting it on other threads.
Given my caliper doesn't seem to be SS sleeved, I plan on getting new/rebuilt calipers for all 4 wheels, since other wheels are probably in similar condition. Thanks for the tips on how to determine if it's sleeved or not..
Stock Delco pads are fine for street use. I use Hawk HD in my 66 and 68 Corvettes and I also use them in my NSX daily driver. Low dust, no squeal and easy on the rotors. Others will chime in with their preferences. Jerry
I prefer the ceramic composite pads. They stop well without a lot of fade, don't make all the dirty black brake dust for getting the front wheels 'grubby', and don't squeal like metallics or semi-metallics. They won't stop as quickly as metallics, but your rotors will last a lot longer (if that matters to you). They still stop quite well for any street vehicle.
You mentioned in your original post that you are new to working on cars. Just want to make sure you are aware of the need to properly bed in the new pads. If you know what that means, that’s great but if you don’t, read up on the topic. No pad will work properly if you don’t adhere to the need to bed them in.
Fast forward a few months. I bought autozone calipers for cheap with their lifetime warranty. Reason I did that was because I could have the caliper available in a short time, without paying massive shipping costs to WA from east coast (especially if caliper leaks).
I'm on my 3rd driver's side caliper, and it leaks AGAIN. Haven't driven the car yet so it's not rotor runout. Other 3 calipers (I think) are fine. Should I try NAPA caliper next? I want something that's reliable so I won't need to touch my brakes for a long time. From reading on the forum seems like good places like Lonestar even leak after a few years. I was considering Eckler's, Zip, Willcox. Called Willcox and they said SS sleeve are not necessary and it was just a marketing scheme, which seems to against all I know about corvette brakes. Also mentioned I don't need Delco casting since it's only for people who want to be judged and no difference in quality. I asked and the Willcox kit I was looking at was not made in US. Wilwood's are a bit outside my budget. I'm probably looking for SS sleeved with O-ring seals.
Any help here/what would people recommend?
Last edited by roamin' around; Jul 13, 2021 at 02:54 AM.
Fast forward a few months. I bought autozone calipers for cheap with their lifetime warranty. Reason I did that was because I could have the caliper available in a short time, without paying massive shipping costs to WA from east coast (especially if caliper leaks).
I'm on my 3rd driver's side caliper, and it leaks AGAIN. Haven't driven the car yet so it's not rotor runout. Other 3 calipers (I think) are fine. Should I try NAPA caliper next? I want something that's reliable so I won't need to touch my brakes for a long time. From reading on the forum seems like good places like Lonestar even leak after a few years. I was considering Eckler's, Zip, Willcox. Called Willcox and they said SS sleeve are not necessary and it was just a marketing scheme, which seems to against all I know about corvette brakes. Also mentioned I don't need Delco casting since it's only for people who want to be judged and no difference in quality. I asked and the Willcox kit I was looking at was not made in US. Wilwood's are a bit outside my budget. I'm probably looking for SS sleeved with O-ring seals.
Any help here/what would people recommend?
do you have an "Advance" auto nearby? I got mine there and not only does it still look shiny and new like 7 years later. I noticed they used stainless pistons in the bores so no dissimiliar metal corrosion.BTW if your original brakes where stainless sleeved you literally would not have has the failure you had so...that said 3 out of 4 of my calipers are original and the only reason I had to replace the one I did was I installed pads incorrctly on that caliper and it shifted and wedged to piston damaging the bore. I rebuilt mine with lip seals 8 years ago they have been fine. the advance caliper did say moraine on the housing so perhaps a repop or refurb.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jul 13, 2021 at 09:05 AM.
Have you pinpointed exactly where the leak is coming from?
The leak is coming from inside the caliper, from one of the pistons on the inner side, not from hose or brake line connection. Brake fluid then collects at lowest point and drops on the floor.
Originally Posted by augiedoggy
do you have an "Advance" auto nearby? I got mine there and not only does it still look shiny and new like 7 years later. I noticed they used stainless pistons in the bores so no dissimiliar metal corrosion.BTW if your original brakes where stainless sleeved you literally would not have has the failure you had so...that said 3 out of 4 of my calipers are original and the only reason I had to replace the one I did was I installed pads incorrctly on that caliper and it shifted and wedged to piston damaging the bore. I rebuilt mine with lip seals 8 years ago they have been fine. the advance caliper did say moraine on the housing so perhaps a repop or refurb.
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I do have an Advanced Auto not too far away, just looked on their website and they only have the rear left caliper (N1040903936CAR) and don't seem to carry any others. Nice that they used stainless pistons for you. My casting from autozone says Delco moraine but so did the previous 2 and all of them leaked. On my other 3 wheels some have DM on it, some don't and don't leak.
Try sponsor vendor o ring stainless with exchange or new. I gave up on rebuilding with lip seals…so far 2 lonestar (who rebuilds most even vendors) one I rebuilt myself o rings were already sleeved…so far one lonestar exchange leaking and at 11 months zip said will credit…one year warranty..as long as no dot 5 fluid..
yes you are out shipping
Try sponsor vendor o ring stainless with exchange or new. I gave up on rebuilding with lip seals…so far 2 lonestar (who rebuilds most even vendors) one I rebuilt myself o rings were already sleeved…so far one lonestar exchange leaking and at 11 months zip said will credit…one year warranty..as long as no dot 5 fluid..
yes you are out shipping
Does anyone make RELIABLE calipers anymore? Heard quality has been on decline as we go overseas
C3 calipers are leaky, they are a poor design. Not sure it matters much on the supplier anymore. I’ve tried all major suppliers over the years. One thing that’s consistent is that they all will leak at some point. Especially if the car sits for any length of time. Best option is it go with aftermarket in my opinion.
Last edited by TorchZ51; Jul 13, 2021 at 04:12 PM.
well... funny you ask..
i am preparing to replace my rebuilt caliper and return for credit from zip.. they seemed decent about it.. HOWEVER TO MY DISAPOINTMENT...My right front is leaking!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! the only one not leaking is the one i rebuilt with O ring and the left rear that was on the car i got it..!!!!
I bought from another vendor..sponsor.. i shall see what the reply is on warrantying that one...
i think there is a bad batch from lonestar... im out brake fluid and labor and freight..so far..x2.. agree with below but not spending too much.. i almost want to tell them send me o ring kit and i will rebuild it.. more leaks!!! bone dry DIY o ring RR
Last edited by interpon; Jul 13, 2021 at 04:44 PM.
well... funny you ask..
i am preparing to replace my rebuilt caliper and return for credit from zip.. they seemed decent about it.. HOWEVER TO MY DISAPOINTMENT...My right front is leaking!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! the only one not leaking is the one i rebuilt with O ring and the left rear that was on the car i got it..!!!!
I bought from another vendor..sponsor.. i shall see what the reply is on warrantying that one...
i think there is a bad batch from lonestar... im out brake fluid and labor and freight..so far..x2.. agree with below but not spending too much.. i almost want to tell them send me o ring kit and i will rebuild it.. more leaks!!! bone dry DIY o ring RR
Thanks for sharing your experience, from other threads I've read people have had issues with all the vendors, including lonestar which I've heard is the last company still rebuilding in US (not sure if thats outdated info).
Very sad to hear how much trouble these recently manufactured/remanufactured brakes are
Autopsy..not sure..zip said he has seen some where o ring didn’t seal..maybe..and it sprayed..but looks like o ring area and or one side from pistons..
side note..the carbon fiber ceramic pads seem nice
i also find it weird unlike when i rebuild them the springs push out the pistons..these seem static..i would open ot up but warranty
Last edited by interpon; Jul 13, 2021 at 07:12 PM.
Autopsy..not sure..zip said he has seen some where o ring didn’t seal..maybe..and it sprayed..but looks like o ring area and or one side from pistons..
side note..the carbon fiber ceramic pads seem nice
i also find it weird unlike when i rebuild them the springs push out the pistons..these seem static..i would open ot up but warranty
Seems like the springs may have not been installed behind the pistons.
I would be interested in knowing what the Ra or RMS values are of the bores. I’ve seen quite a difference among those I have seen over the years with some exhibiting a “mirror” finish with others that you can feel the irregularities with your fingernail. Take a close look at your leaking bore. If they aren’t smooth, you might be able to address the problem by running a cylinder hone for a few seconds to knock down the irregularities.
You should have 0.0045” to 0.010” gap between the piston and the bore. Get some shimstock and remove the O-ring.
