"Small" solid roller lifter camshaft for Big Block
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 493
Likes: 217
First-you need to properly degree the cam. Next Brodix racerite heads are the ultimate in poor quality factory machine work, the worst I have ever seen, its very possible you have valves that leak. After looking at these two things you can look at a cam change if you want.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 878
Likes: 55
From: Deep South Denmark
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 878
Likes: 55
From: Deep South Denmark
First-you need to properly degree the cam. Next Brodix racerite heads are the ultimate in poor quality factory machine work, the worst I have ever seen, its very possible you have valves that leak. After looking at these two things you can look at a cam change if you want.
The place I bought the Brodix heads checked them, but of course I don't know for sure if they actually did it. They looked good...
I will do a leak down test as suggested by gkull.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 493
Likes: 217
One other thing to mention since your MSD pickup wire is hanging there: that wire must be kept away from all other wires, never tie it to other wires with a zip tie-ever, infact I like to use MSD's shield pick up wire myself.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 493
Likes: 217
Strait up means absolutely nothing, you have to do the job correct, or your going to have weird problems just like you've got. Not trying to bust your ***** but if your going to mess with cars you have to know these things, if you need help with decreeing the cam I'am happy to help you. Pretty simple process, especially with the Rollmaster, a great chain!
Last edited by Vortecpro; Feb 9, 2021 at 07:50 AM.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 493
Likes: 217
Where did you buy them?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 878
Likes: 55
From: Deep South Denmark
What is the shielded wire you mention? I see a shielded extension wire (MSD part number 8862) on their web page.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 878
Likes: 55
From: Deep South Denmark
Strait up means absolutely nothing, you have to do the job correct, or your going to have weird problems just like you've got. Not trying to bust your ***** but if your going to mess with cars you have to know these things, if you need help with decreeing the cam I'am happy to help you. Pretty simple process, especially with the Rollmaster, a great chain!
I'm planning on trying the suggestion from gkull about retarding the camshaft timing.
Hmmm, that was six years ago, I think they were called D&F, don't know if they still exist.
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Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Leak down testing is pretty easy if you remove the valve covers. You have to watch the the intake valve event and when the intake closes rotate the crank to bring the cylinder that you are working on to TDC. (Very important). 100 psi will rotate the crank if it isn't straight up TDC.
If you suspect a flat cam lobe it is easy to use a dial indicator to measure either lobe lift or actual valve lift.
The idea of retarding the cam with the timing gears is to create less intake reversion, improve idle quality, and vacuum. It gives you less of a peaky TQ curve and the broader power band.
If you suspect a flat cam lobe it is easy to use a dial indicator to measure either lobe lift or actual valve lift.
The idea of retarding the cam with the timing gears is to create less intake reversion, improve idle quality, and vacuum. It gives you less of a peaky TQ curve and the broader power band.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 878
Likes: 55
From: Deep South Denmark
It's alive!
Just closing this old thread.
I just got it started with the new camshaft and solid lifters. Unfortunately the connectng rods are banging against the scrapers on the Moroso oil pan, so I have to take it apart again to remove those, but otherwise I am happy with how it runs so far.
Now it responds to mixture tuning and it makes proper vacuum, none of which it did with the old cam and lifters. And it no longer stinks of unburnt fuel.
My theory is that it was the old lifters that was hanging some of the valves slightly open. When I performed the leakdown test before replacing the cam and lifters, the result would vary between tests on the same cylinder if I turned it over a coupe of times.
Thanks to everyone who helped.
/Karsten
I just got it started with the new camshaft and solid lifters. Unfortunately the connectng rods are banging against the scrapers on the Moroso oil pan, so I have to take it apart again to remove those, but otherwise I am happy with how it runs so far.
Now it responds to mixture tuning and it makes proper vacuum, none of which it did with the old cam and lifters. And it no longer stinks of unburnt fuel.
My theory is that it was the old lifters that was hanging some of the valves slightly open. When I performed the leakdown test before replacing the cam and lifters, the result would vary between tests on the same cylinder if I turned it over a coupe of times.
Thanks to everyone who helped.
/Karsten
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
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From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Good to hear!!
Mark ie Vortecpro wish youd start posting you have a ton of know how the guys could benefit from
Heard rumors of the quality of Brodix, coming from youd Id believe it. that is sad as they arent cheap!
Weingartner seems to be a fan of them.
Little Mouse...recent discussion on TeamChevelle about flat tappets had Mike Jones from Jones cams pipe in (CamKing)
He has them on p55 cores, lifters properly hardened. Love the simplicity of the FT even if they dont quite make the same power
Mark ie Vortecpro wish youd start posting you have a ton of know how the guys could benefit from
Heard rumors of the quality of Brodix, coming from youd Id believe it. that is sad as they arent cheap!
Weingartner seems to be a fan of them.
Little Mouse...recent discussion on TeamChevelle about flat tappets had Mike Jones from Jones cams pipe in (CamKing)
He has them on p55 cores, lifters properly hardened. Love the simplicity of the FT even if they dont quite make the same power
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Last q...Mark...which is the pickup wire that needs isolating?
Have 2 coming from the distributor? No matter what i try or differnet timing lights my timing mark is all over the friggin place I cant even tell where its really at. Runs good but losing patience with this thing.
Have 2 coming from the distributor? No matter what i try or differnet timing lights my timing mark is all over the friggin place I cant even tell where its really at. Runs good but losing patience with this thing.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Last q...Mark...which is the pickup wire that needs isolating?
Have 2 coming from the distributor? No matter what i try or differnet timing lights my timing mark is all over the friggin place I cant even tell where its really at. Runs good but losing patience with this thing.
Have 2 coming from the distributor? No matter what i try or differnet timing lights my timing mark is all over the friggin place I cant even tell where its really at. Runs good but losing patience with this thing.
At the shop many years ago I was just getting frustrated by the RF coming off of racing engines quite often equipped with solid copper core plug wires. I had seen on Amazon Faraday cell phone holders. So I reasoned that maybe enclosing the timing pickup in the cage would block out RF
IT actually works 🙂
Old Pro Solo Guy
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 8,031
Likes: 4,387
From: Marlton NJ
FYI
I have a SR with almost the exact same specs as yours, except lift. 230/240 @.050, 110 LC, but .625" lift.
Main difference between ours is is mine was degreed on installation with an intake centerline of 110.
Mine makes 15" vac at 825rpm.
So I hope your 11" idle vac reading improves, or you could retard your cam 4 degrees, since it is more advanced than mine.
My timing: 5 45 49 9 vs your 9 53 40 8. (I O/C & E O/C)
My cam was ground straight up and yours was ground 4 advanced, so even though we both installed them straight up we have different timing.
I have a SR with almost the exact same specs as yours, except lift. 230/240 @.050, 110 LC, but .625" lift.
Main difference between ours is is mine was degreed on installation with an intake centerline of 110.
Mine makes 15" vac at 825rpm.
So I hope your 11" idle vac reading improves, or you could retard your cam 4 degrees, since it is more advanced than mine.
My timing: 5 45 49 9 vs your 9 53 40 8. (I O/C & E O/C)
My cam was ground straight up and yours was ground 4 advanced, so even though we both installed them straight up we have different timing.