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Well this 80$ kit does require a bit know how, I can suggest you get a 22 circuit painless harness however is a bit more expensive just do a search on Google for it, here is detailed instructions on what tools to use and modify the harness.
I replaced all the tail light bulbs. All were un blown. When I started the car today four lights on the dash started flashing. Two on Tach side and two on Speedo side. What could possibly I have done to transfer tail and brake lights to the dash?
Well this 80$ kit does require a bit know how, I can suggest you get a 22 circuit painless harness however is a bit more expensive just do a search on Google for it, here is detailed instructions on what tools to use and modify the harness.
I just watched a Painless harness installation yesterday and he had to a cut the firewall over a 1/2” to make it fit. Not a big fan of that. I would think the fuse box would mount up directly. The harmonica seems to match. Simple plug in.
Last edited by RobMc1963$; Feb 4, 2021 at 05:52 AM.
By chance, are the blinking lights in sync with the turn signal lights? If this is true, then you may have placed the Turn Signal Dash Indicator Lights into the wrong holes (on the backside of the TACH/SPEEDO). The gauge lights do not know what hole they are placed in, they get the common ground from the metal on the back of the Tach/Speedo. On the back of the tach/speedo are stamped letters (at bulb holes) that correspond to the wire colors, this is so that the High Beam Bulb goes in the hole for the High Beam, likewise for each turn signal, and brake light. When the Hazard Switch on the column is pulled, BOTH Turn Signal Indicator lights will be flashing, along with all parking/turn signal lights.
By chance, are the blinking lights in sync with the turn signal lights? If this is true, then you may have placed the Turn Signal Dash Indicator Lights into the wrong holes (on the backside of the TACH/SPEEDO). The gauge lights do not know what hole they are placed in, they get the common ground from the metal on the back of the Tach/Speedo. On the back of the tach/speedo are stamped letters (at bulb holes) that correspond to the wire colors, this is so that the High Beam Bulb goes in the hole for the High Beam, likewise for each turn signal, and brake light. When the Hazard Switch on the column is pulled, BOTH Turn Signal Indicator lights will be flashing, along with all parking/turn signal lights.
Yes they are. Problem is that I did not move any wires. All I did was add a two wire system to the single wire dash lights. The lights now have a common ground ( to the ground on wall by drivers door) instead of the dash ground on Tach and Speed. The flashing would not turn off from the hazard switch either.
What was the reason you added (a bulb or bulbs) to the existing system? Are you sure that you “tapped in” (connected) to a Grey Wire (on original bulb holder) that illuminates the gauges? It is possible that connecting the New Bulb Holders with two wires, you have ADDED another Ground. Since this is just a guess, you might want to disconnect the New Ground Wire. On interior lights that come on from different activities (open doors, head light switch and etc.) there is only one 12 volt positive wire going to the bulbs, but there are Additional Ground Wires. Let me know what happens when you disconnect the New Ground Wire.
What was the reason you added (a bulb or bulbs) to the existing system? Are you sure that you “tapped in” (connected) to a Grey Wire (on original bulb holder) that illuminates the gauges? It is possible that connecting the New Bulb Holders with two wires, you have ADDED another Ground. Since this is just a guess, you might want to disconnect the New Ground Wire. On interior lights that come on from different activities (open doors, head light switch and etc.) there is only one 12 volt positive wire going to the bulbs, but there are Additional Ground Wires. Let me know what happens when you disconnect the New Ground Wire.
I did connect the new ground wires to ground by the drivers side door. Could that be part of the problem plus a potentially bad rear ground?
Are the new bulb holders made out of metal? If the outside of the new bulb holders are metal, then your new ground could be transferred to another piece of metal simply by touching. What are the new bulb holders for? Where are they located?
Here is the problem of some working and others not. As some suggested earlier to check polarity I did and the ones I checked were good. I did not however check everyone. Comes to find out that the ones not working were in reverse polarity for the LED 194’s. Also, some of the lights (new)did not work AND some of the new bulb holders be bad. I’m playing the lottery tonight! Lol. Hopping now that ground, lights, polarity, and holder issues Arwen figured out I can get them working again. I will update everyone again soon.
Are the new bulb holders made out of metal? If the outside of the new bulb holders are metal, then your new ground could be transferred to another piece of metal simply by touching. What are the new bulb holders for? Where are they located?
The first thing you should do is get the headlight current out of the switch by installing headlight relays. Easy to do and a lot safer.
And this is just my opinion - I don't know what the fascination is with LED's. Yes they might be a little brighter and last longer but to me they are just not worth the hassle. My 1971 has all the original dash bulbs installed and they all still work after almost 50 years.
The reason the headlight "high beam" lights up- is it's on a separate circuit and fed power from the dimmer switch.
LEDs are one way devices- often time the aftermarket bulb holders use white as ground and black as +12- that could be your problem.
Here's a simple hack-
Get a 9V battery and one of the connectors- you can get one out of a old trashed electronic piece- radio- even an old smoke detector ( that should be replaced every 10 years anyway)
If you have a spare bulb holder and LED- try it out with a 9V battery- if not you can test the car -
Disconnect your car battery-
Take the leads and touch the instrument lamp fuse (try both sides) with the red and the black to ground. Then swap the leads around. The LEDs will work fine off a 9V battery.
If it lights up with the 9V battery leads swap around - there's your problem.
Let us know what you find-
Richard
You assume that the LED's in question have resistors installed as LED work off of 2 to 3 VDC. I can see your LED strip pictured has the resistors. If you put 9 volts across and LED by itself it will only light for a nanosecond and probably let all the magic smoke out.
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