Need help getting rear hubs out
While the snow pours down over Seattle, I want to pull my trailing arms and remove the rear hubs to get ready for my new Ridetech Strongarm trailing arms due next week. 1968 Coupe. Stock replaced trailing arms (got the complete assembly from Eckler's about 2000 miles ago).
Here is what I have done so far:
1. Pulled the trailing arms out. No problem.
2. Pulled the cotter pin and the castle nut from the back of the wheel hub
3. Pulled off the case and washer off the back
4. Pulled the aluminum cover off the back
According to the videos I have seen, I should be able to just tap the spindle from the back and slide it out. But I have hammered it hard (being careful of the threads of course) and it will NOT budge. It has a tiny amount of play in it (5/100" maybe) but it is a hard stop.
Am I missing some retaining clip I can't see? I am at a loss at this point. The hubs are fairly new as I mentioned. Pictures included to show what I see. Any help is appreciated. Should I have to beat the hell out of it to get it off??????
Here are the parts I pulled off the back.
Semi closeup of the back. I can't find any reason it would not come out.
Wider view
This is the installation video. What I need to do is at 2:15 in the video.





Here are entire assembled hub/spindle as removed from stock arms and being transferred right over into the RideTech arms:
Lars
Last edited by lars; Feb 13, 2021 at 05:38 PM.
I see why they pulled the spindle to get to the mounting nuts they didn’t want to take apart the parking brake shoes and hardware.
Remove the shoes and you can get to the nuts without pulling the spindle. Putting the shoes back on can be a pita.
Last edited by speedreed8; Feb 13, 2021 at 05:48 PM.
I see why they pulled the spindle to get to the mounting nuts they didn’t want to take apart the parking brake shoes and hardware.
Remove the shoes and you can get to the nuts without pulling the spindle. Putting the shoes back on can be a pita.
I have to take my half shafts in to a shop to get the u-joints pressed in, so I might as well have them press the hubs out there at the same time.
Here are entire assembled hub/spindle as removed from stock arms and being transferred right over into the RideTech arms:
Lars
It took me forever to get them dialed in the first time.
I think I will see what the shop says when I take my half shafts in for the u-joints. If they don't have an easy way to do it then I will go your route with removing the parking brake shoes.
I'm just glad I'm not crazy. In that Ridetech video it was like "Doink" with a hammer and they were out. Not so much I guess.

The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Here are entire assembled hub/spindle as removed from stock arms and being transferred right over into the RideTech arms:
Lars
That video shows the axle tapping out of the bearings, That only happens when the bearings are slip fit which any rebuilder would be crazy to do considering the liability concerns. Chevy found out in 1963 when spun bearings caused over heating and sheared the axles. The only thing passing an early 63 was the rear wheel and tire. If it was done just to demonstrate how they come apart they should have mentioned it because you will hammering till the end of time with a mallet and press fit axle. Just another bad video on corvette rear bearings. The arms are ok, I set up some of those a few months back. Kind of over kill because if you are running high power and are going to push the car, the arms will be in nice shape when the 17 spline inner axle snaps at the base of the threads. Kind of like when a con man sells you on a steel cap and then uses a stock crush sleeve on the pinion, if you need one you need the other.
When driving out the axles you are hammering against the inner bearing press fit only- the outer bearing stays on the axle when driven out- if it come out like in the video it is junk, Now some will hammer them out and reuse the bearings, not a wise thing to do , again unless you like do them over. Then there is the outer seal, you just smashed the hell out of it when you drove out the axle and your outer bearing is still pressed on the axle. Are you going to try and use a thin screw driver to press it back in and hope it's not bent or the seal wrecked? So if the axle comes out you rebuild them correctly. There are reasons rebuilding units correctly costs a good amount- Parts, Labor, proper tools and experience. The axle in your picture already appears to be distorted at the center drill hole, looks like the typical hammer mechanic trick- unless my eyes are wrong and it's not wacked. The nut should spin off without effort. The cupped washer will be flat and that should be replaced too.
Just a final note, given the choice between rebuilding 50-60 year old arms that are virgin vs those that have been previously worked on I would take the old rusty ones, with rotors riveted in place- I could write a book on what I found with "rebuilt" arms and a lot of them were plain bad.
I wish you luck.
Last edited by GTR1999; Feb 14, 2021 at 01:04 AM.
You have to pull the parking brake shoes to get at the nuts unless you want to re-do the bearings.
Last edited by lionelhutz; Feb 14, 2021 at 10:06 AM.
You have to pull the parking brake shoes to get at the nuts unless you want to re-do the bearings.

I also am going to give Ridetech a customer review of their video! :-)

I also am going to give Ridetech a customer review of their video! :-)
I just hope to god I can put those damn parking brake shoes together again. :-)

















