New Distributor help please
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,233
Likes: 657
From: Thunder Bay
If the problem didn't exist before I think its reasonable to proceed on the assumption that the problem is caused by something you worked on. Yes, it's possible it's a completely unrelated problem, but that seems a little unlikely.
I would reinstall each of the parts you removed one at a time until something changes. That should at least tell you which part is causing the problem.
Several random thoughts: Compare the rotor to the old one. I recall there were some rotors with different length contacts. Do the same with the cap. Ensure the contact with the spring under the coil is installed correctly and the rubber washer is in the right place. I once went brain dead and put the washer under the contact and spring. They don't run well like that. It would not surprise me to hear you got a defective module right out of the box, given the crap we get for parts these days. Check your firing order/plug wire installation. You wouldn't be the first guy to reverse a couple of wires.
Good luck. Keep at it. You'll find it. It's not rocket surgery. (I'm currently working on replacing my window regulator. Apparently that IS rocket surgery. Want to trade?
)
I would reinstall each of the parts you removed one at a time until something changes. That should at least tell you which part is causing the problem.
Several random thoughts: Compare the rotor to the old one. I recall there were some rotors with different length contacts. Do the same with the cap. Ensure the contact with the spring under the coil is installed correctly and the rubber washer is in the right place. I once went brain dead and put the washer under the contact and spring. They don't run well like that. It would not surprise me to hear you got a defective module right out of the box, given the crap we get for parts these days. Check your firing order/plug wire installation. You wouldn't be the first guy to reverse a couple of wires.
Good luck. Keep at it. You'll find it. It's not rocket surgery. (I'm currently working on replacing my window regulator. Apparently that IS rocket surgery. Want to trade?
)
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Dr. Detroit
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From: New Braunfels Texas
Jebby
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2020
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From: Western NY
since you replaced some ignition parts and now have this problem it's probably ignition related as others have stated, however as long as your working on it it would not hurt to check your accelerator pump on the carb and make sure your secondary air valve is opening and the choke pull off for the air valve is working as any of these can cause a bog if they are defective.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 29
Likes: 2
From: Fort Smith, Arkansas
since you replaced some ignition parts and now have this problem it's probably ignition related as others have stated, however as long as your working on it it would not hurt to check your accelerator pump on the carb and make sure your secondary air valve is opening and the choke pull off for the air valve is working as any of these can cause a bog if they are defective.
Awesome. Thank you !!!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 29
Likes: 2
From: Fort Smith, Arkansas
It did it again today driving it. It drives so smooth and idles even better. But the minute I floor it, it doesn’t sputter, it just shuts off. I put it in neutral, and turn the key, and it starts right back up. I don’t get it
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Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: New Braunfels Texas
Jebby
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2021
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From: Fort Smith, Arkansas
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: New Braunfels Texas
https://www.chevrolet.com/performanc...and-components
It comes that way....a bit pricey but drop it in and go....set timing for 36 degrees total @ 3000 rpm and done....
You can buy a cheaper unit.....there are many....but you have to curve it yourself....
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Feb 28, 2021 at 08:41 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,422
Likes: 591
From: McHenry Illinois
Hold the phone Jay.
First, great car and welcome to the forum.
Second, there is NOTHING wrong with your "distributor". Do not replace it.
What diagnosis was done by this person to give you this ill advice?
Distributors don't generally go bad as they are a hard part. It could possibly have a bad ignition module or coil that is failing when it gets hot. Easy and very affordable repair and you do not even need to pull the distributor to replace either of them. It's usually been my experience that when either of these goes bad, it's bad, and will not restart. However that's not always the case. I recommend you run the car up to temp and wait for the fail, somewhere that won't block traffic. Then check for spark. Coil and mod are available at any local part store like NAPA, etc.
Another issue that could cause this stalling at temp is if you have high percentage ethanol gas in your area. This is very prevalent here in SoCal with carburated cars and high ambient temps.
Spend just a bit more time on diagnostics with someone better qualified. It will save you money and keep you from buying unnecessary parts.
Cheers, Greg
First, great car and welcome to the forum.
Second, there is NOTHING wrong with your "distributor". Do not replace it.
What diagnosis was done by this person to give you this ill advice?
Distributors don't generally go bad as they are a hard part. It could possibly have a bad ignition module or coil that is failing when it gets hot. Easy and very affordable repair and you do not even need to pull the distributor to replace either of them. It's usually been my experience that when either of these goes bad, it's bad, and will not restart. However that's not always the case. I recommend you run the car up to temp and wait for the fail, somewhere that won't block traffic. Then check for spark. Coil and mod are available at any local part store like NAPA, etc.
Another issue that could cause this stalling at temp is if you have high percentage ethanol gas in your area. This is very prevalent here in SoCal with carburated cars and high ambient temps.
Spend just a bit more time on diagnostics with someone better qualified. It will save you money and keep you from buying unnecessary parts.
Cheers, Greg
Also, Congratulations on your retirement and thank you for your service!
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^This and post up some pictures of your well deserved retirement gift.
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
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Royal Canadian Navy
I changed out the ignition module, coil, and distributor cap. It runs great unless I floor it. Then it hesitates and sputters. It even just shut off and came right back on while driving. The tachometer stuck at 2000 too. The RPM climb just fine if I drive it normally. But under load, flooring it, it does all that. What could it be ?
Last edited by resdoggie; Feb 28, 2021 at 10:59 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,247
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From: Glen Allen, VA
First, thank you for your service, and congrats on your retirement. I don't have anything technical to add, others here know a lot more than I do. Just wanted to say, I"m going the opposite direction as you, as I've had my 79 for 15 years now, and just recently bought a 72 MGB for my wife. I'm up to my eyeballs in learning about that car.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 29
Likes: 2
From: Fort Smith, Arkansas
Its not bogging down though. It's just shutting off and coming back on. It's weird
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 29
Likes: 2
From: Fort Smith, Arkansas
First, thank you for your service, and congrats on your retirement. I don't have anything technical to add, others here know a lot more than I do. Just wanted to say, I"m going the opposite direction as you, as I've had my 79 for 15 years now, and just recently bought a 72 MGB for my wife. I'm up to my eyeballs in learning about that car.
Last edited by JayGreer; Feb 28, 2021 at 01:08 PM.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 676
Likes: 36
From: Usa
Jay first off thank you for your service and welcome to the corvette forum. I tend to agree with most of the forum members who have responded to your post it most likely is an ignition related issue caused by one of the replacement components and that is where I would put my focus. One of the members commented you may have purchased a faulty ignition module. This happens more often than you would think due to the low quality junk being sold by parts houses these days. I would try replacing this with the old ignition module if you still have it and see if the problem gets better or goes away. If you find the new module is bad replace it with a high quality unit. I would do the same with all the replacement components i.e. distributor cap, rotor etcetera one item at a time. Double check plug wire routing and if you replaced the plugs verify the gap is correct. My 73 began stalling and had a rough idle the problem turned out to be one of my plug wires had fallen onto the exhaust manifold and was grounding out. I replaced the burned plug wire and the car ran like new. I was surprised at how rough the car ran with that one plug wire misfiring. Good luck.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 29
Likes: 2
From: Fort Smith, Arkansas
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-GM-Pe.../dp/B00FS9RTFW
https://www.chevrolet.com/performanc...and-components
It comes that way....a bit pricey but drop it in and go....set timing for 36 degrees total @ 3000 rpm and done....
You can buy a cheaper unit.....there are many....but you have to curve it yourself....
Jebby
https://www.chevrolet.com/performanc...and-components
It comes that way....a bit pricey but drop it in and go....set timing for 36 degrees total @ 3000 rpm and done....
You can buy a cheaper unit.....there are many....but you have to curve it yourself....
Jebby
There are like 5 different ones on there... Which one do I get ? The billet HEI or the regular HEI ?