I think I see a problem. Note the connector that goes to the Modge. (post 19) The letters "G" & 'W" are engraved.
I believe those stand for: Gold & White.
Flip it over.

And, just because. Put a dab of heat resistant grease under those weights.

And the occasional On again / Off again ignition issue is a classic sign of those modules. They get hot inside which breaks the circuits. After a cool-down the connections are restored.
I had a '76 Chevy when the first HEI came out. They were notorious for quitting around 60,000 miles, like clock work. One day after work and after a couple beers my 305 wouldn't start.
Guy next to me at the bar was a clever auto-parts salesman. He asked the bartender for a ziplock bag of ice. He sat the ice on my distributor cap, waited a few minutes and said, try it now. Took right off.
True story.

 

Pretty sure it stands for Green and White. I would replace the electronics in the distributor myself rather than a whole new distributor.. After doublechecking the wires.
Like in this pic.

 

I ordered a new vacuum, a flame thrower ignition coil, a flame thrower control module, new weights, pick up coil, and terminal block and module wires. Along with new plugs and wires. So basically all new parts. I’ll just start all over

 

GREAT info. Thank you !!!

 

First off - CONGRATULATIONS on Retiring, and As you can see - Many of Us (including me) do Appreciate Your Service !!!

So - While it is possible it is the distributor itself (worn bearings causing shaft wobble (runout) and a loss of magnetic pickup signal) - that is NOT the most likely scenario.

I think the tach hanging at 2,000 RPM is a very important symptom. The tach is basically a frequency counter - it's basically counting the number of on - off cycles that the ignition coil is seeing. and if it's not reading right - it's likely something electronic is wrong. As other posters have said - it's quite possible a cheap electronic module - or a wire with either a high resistance connection or broken stands is the culprit - a bad ground connection also comes to mind as something to check. It's also possible that the coil is drawing more current than the module likes - and the module is "unhappy" with the additional current draw.

Replacing the parts you just ordered is a good next step. I would suggest taking a pair of needle nose pliers and "snugging" each of the female slide connectors as you remove and replace parts - little things like that can really matter. I have had good luck with MSD ignition components, but I've also heard good things about Petronics and Davis.

If no luck - you You can order a replacement HEI distributor from a place like Rock Auto - and try it. If it doesn't solve the problem - you can return it - and it shouldn't be too expensive (Rock Auto shows them running in the $75 - $150 range).

As others have suggested - do replace the plugs & wires. As the plugs go through life - the gaps open up - and that drives the voltage required to fire them up - an Ignition in good shape has some margin - but higher resistance in wires, and larger than normal lug gaps tend to make the ignition system work "harder" and if something is marginal - it's most likely to fail when working hard . I personally prefer a good Magnetic Suppression plug wire with low resistance to the OEM type resistance wires.

One other suggestion - before you replace the plugs - I'd recommend getting a couple of cans of carb cleaner, and give the carb a good spraying out (with the engine warmed up running at say 2,000 - 3,000 RPM). You will certainly have some varnish and gum in there - and some of it is likely to get on the plugs - might as well get it on the old plugs - not the new ones.

 

Augie,
But the wires there are: Gold & White. No green. Post / picture 19

 

are you sure? What I see could be a very faded olive green wire and a white.

 

''STOP''

DO NOT replace the dist

go back to the basics,,

did you do a tune-up?

plugs,cap,rotor,fuel filter,air filter?

 

If you look at the photos from the beginning of this thread though, I put the plugs back on exactly like I took them off. Unless they were on wrong before I took it apart ? What would that do if it was on wrong ?

 

I had a similar problem with my 79, pulled the dizzy and replaced everything still couldn't get it to set up correctly. When I lived in Memphis I went to Performance Distributors ( https://performancedistributors.com ) and picked up one from them, you tell them how you want it curved and they'll set it up for you. Dropped it in set the timing and it runs like a champ.

 

You received lots of good advise from Greg so try it.
Don't pull the distributer that will only complicate things.
Park you car in you driveway and with the ait cleaner loose , if it stalls remove the air cleaner and take some photos of the carb.
See if you smell gas.
choke closed?
Do you have a service history?
Could be other problems:
float level bad, fuel filter bad, fuel pump etc.
You need to get the Corvette Service Manual and the AIM - assembly manulal.

Pete.

 

Has anyone ever had to replace a distributor pickup coil ? Any good tips on how to do it ?

 

Anyone have a pic or diagram to clarify the above?




Has anyone ever had a problem with the center-hole in the rubber washer/seal NOT allowing the spring to touch the flat terminal on the UNDERSIDE of the coil because the hole in the rubber washer is too small?

 

Waiting on parts now. Hope it all works. It's killing me just looking at it in the driveway

Has anyone replaced the distributor pickup coil ? Any good tips on how to do it ?

 

Just wondering why you bought a bunch more parts to try to do the distributor again?
The amazon link I sent was the correct one....the other link was just for a description....
Buy the GM unit, drop it in and be done with it....
There are no tips on changing the pickup coil....knock the pin out for the distributor gear and slide the shaft out....swap pickups and slide the shaft back in....you have to pull the distributor to change the pickup so why not just put a new unit in? And the GM unit will run better as it has a proper curve in it....
Pulling the distributor is easy....so is setting timing...
Of course.....do what you like, but just trying to save you a headache.....

Jebby

 

You have to put the distributor, knock the roll pin out of the distributor gear, remove gear and shims (if any) pull shaft out, remove the (3) screws holding the pick-up coil retainer, remove retainer and coil (notice where the wire are position "clocked", re-install new coil and retainer, slip shaft in, install shims and gear then tap roll pin back in.

When removing distributor rotate the engine so the rotor is pointing straight ahead. After loosening the distributor clamp bolt (you will notice it can be slid back does not have to be totally removed). (now hold the base of the distributor and note orientation to engine and do not let it spin while you are pulling it out). pull the distributor up and you will see the rotor rotate as you are pulling it up. try and pay attention to how far it rotates and direction when you have it completly pull it out. (you will need to know this so you can put the distributor back in at the same timing position

The distributor also drives the oil pump, The roll pin you removed is the pin that engages the oil pump shaft. After you have totally removed the distributor you will need to re-clock the oil pump shaft using a long bladed screwdriver. (it is simple) Hold the distributor in your hands by the bas with the same orientation that to had when you took it out, spin the rotor to the same position as it was when it stopped turning when you pulled it out. Now notice the orientation of the roll pin as to the front of the motor, is it at a 45 degree angle from centerline of the motor or 90 degree or is it on centerline? It doesn't matter just notice the position so you can look down the distributor shaft hole with a flash light and rotate the slotted oil pump shaft to the same orientation as the roll pin on the distributor gear. Now insert distributor into hole, the rotor wil now spin the opposite direction than when you pulled it out and if you did everything correctly the distributor should sit ALL the way down tight to the intake, if there is an air gap you did not have the oil pump shaft lined up with the roll pin on the distributor, just pull it out again and rotate the oil pump shaft to match the roll pin position and try inserting it again, it might take a couple of tries but you will get it. One you have it down slide the distributor hold down camp over the bottom distributor flange and snug up the bolt. Re-install cap, wires ans start motor and check timing.

I have had to do this on the side of the road when my pick-up coil died in my '78 Camaro. when I got it home and checked my timing I was off only 2 degrees. hope this helps

 

It helps BIG TIME !!! Thank you !!!

 

I had already ordered the parts because everyone recommended it at the beginning instead of putting in a new one because I would have to re-time it. But If this doesn't work, I will definitely order a new one. Thank you

 

Cool...hope you get it sorted.
Post your results!

Jebby

 

So I started it today in the driveway today and it started right up. I floored it and it revved right up, it did just fine cold and hot. So I took it for a drive, and it drives smooth and great. Then I floored it, and the whole car just shut off. I put it in neutral, and turned the ignition and it came back on. NOT turn over, just came on while coasting. So I drove it home. It has to be one of the parts in the distributor, right ? The parts should be here tomorrow by the way. I ordered EVERYTHING in the distributor