When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just bought a 1976 L82. It only has 48,000 miles on it. EVERYTHING on it are the original parts. The previous owner drove it rarely, but never had a problem. Yesterday, after I drove it for a while, whenever I stopped, it wouldn’t restart until after it cooled off. It also died in a drivethru window one time running. After about 30 minutes, it would start back up and run till it got heat soaked again. I had someone look at it, and he said said since it’s the original distributor, it was definitely going to need to be replaced. So I don’t know which one to purchase. There are soooo many options, and I don’t want to purchase the wrong one. Ill post a couple of photos of the engine bay. I don’t care about the cost, but I want a plug and play. I don’t want to have to add a separate coil or a bunch of other stuff. Can y’all help me please ? This is my first corvette, so I’m learning as I go. I’m retiring out of the military after 32 years, and this is my retirement present to myself
Last edited by JayGreer; Feb 25, 2021 at 12:42 PM.
Why a new distributor? If it's not firing when you turn it over why not just try a new coil in the distributor you have? The coil is almost looking at you, take the distributor cap off and have a look at the terminal posts inside "while you are at it" if they are burned away I would replace the cap too. It may not be the coil that is causing the problem, it could be the ignition module inside the distributor, it's fed by the pink wire going to the terminal on the cap with Bat on it. Both it and the coil are relatively cheap and easily replaced, if you pull the distributor out you then have to deal with the ignition timing.
Hold the phone Jay. First, great car and welcome to the forum. Second, there is NOTHING wrong with your "distributor". Do not replace it. What diagnosis was done by this person to give you this ill advice? Distributors don't generally go bad as they are a hard part. It could possibly have a bad ignition module or coil that is failing when it gets hot. Easy and very affordable repair and you do not even need to pull the distributor to replace either of them. It's usually been my experience that when either of these goes bad, it's bad, and will not restart. However that's not always the case. I recommend you run the car up to temp and wait for the fail, somewhere that won't block traffic. Then check for spark. Coil and mod are available at any local part store like NAPA, etc. Another issue that could cause this stalling at temp is if you have high percentage ethanol gas in your area. This is very prevalent here in SoCal with carburated cars and high ambient temps.
Spend just a bit more time on diagnostics with someone better qualified. It will save you money and keep you from buying unnecessary parts. Cheers, Greg
Welcome to the forum, and Thank You for your service!
Originally Posted by JayGreer
I had someone look at it.....
If this was a shop, then I'd recommend finding another one. As already stated, you definitely don't need a whole distributor. It's almost certainly either the ignition module (under the distributor cap) or the coil (built into the distributor cap), so start there.
You'll probably get better advice here than from most shops, so fire away if you have any questions.
Awesome... I strictly use 91 octane ethanol free fuel. Thank y’all so much. I’m just gonna attempt this on my own. I’ll start with a new coil, new ignition module and new distributor cap. I’ll go ahead and replace the plugs and wires too. Anything I should know before I start this ?
I also have a 1970 MGB that I’ve restored, so working on cars isn’t new. But this car is waaaaaay different than the MG... HaHa
[QUOTE=JayGreer;1603062741]Awesome... I strictly use 91 octane ethanol free fuel. Thank y’all so much. I’m just gonna attempt this on my own. I’ll start with a new coil, new ignition module and new distributor cap. I’ll go ahead and replace the plugs and wires too. Anything I should know before I start this ?
The spark plug wires for the front cylinders can be challenging because they run through some metal v shaped guides and the motor mounts if they are oem. You may have to remove the spark plug boots to get them through and then reinstall. Good luck.
When you replace the ignition module you need to use a special grease under it to facilitate heat transfer. Without it the module will overheat and fail. Last time I saw a new one it came with the grease.
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Finalist - Unmodified
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2025 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C4 of the Year Finalist- Modified
2022 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2021 C7 of the Year Winner -- Modified
2020 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
How does it run when its running? hesitate, Boggy, stumbling?
In my past experience electrical components do not go bad then good again, usually they go bad and stay bad.
I am leaning to a dirty carb issue or weak fuel pump
It runs fine when it's cold. I mean it rumbles and idols OK I guess. It's just when it gets warm or hot. That's when it won't start or stay running until it cools off. Then it runs fine again until it gets heat soaked again
Inspect the wires inside the distributor carefully. The General also had a lot of problems with the wires breaking from constant flexing as the mechanical advance mechanism operates.
Well, I got all of those parts changed out and I think it fixed my problem. Thank you all. But, I have another problem now. It starts right up and idols great. It even drives OK if I'm careful with the gas pedal. But if I floor it, it starts to sputter and hesitate bad. Even sitting in park, it sputters real bad if I mash the gas pedal. Before I changed the distributor parts out, it didn't do this. It would take off like a scalded beast when I mashed the gas pedal
Last edited by JayGreer; Feb 25, 2021 at 06:16 PM.
But if I floor it, it starts to sputter and hesitate bad. Even sitting in park, it sputters real bad if I mash the gas pedal. Before I changed the distributor parts out, it didn't do this. It would take off like a scalded beast when I mashed the gas pedal
I'd check that the plug wires are connected properly (not out of sequence), then I'd check the plug wire sequence one or two more times. Then make sure the vacuum hoses are all hooked up, and then check under the distributor cap to make sure the mechanical advance weights didn't get disturbed, or one of the wires isn't getting in the way of the weights. I've found when a 'new' problem pops up after doing a repair, 95% of the time it's usually something I didn't put back together correctly.
Well, I got all of those parts changed out and I think it fixed my problem. Thank you all. But, I have another problem now. It starts right up and idols great. It even drives OK if I'm careful with the gas pedal. But if I floor it, it starts to sputter and hesitate bad. Even sitting in park, it sputters real bad if I mash the gas pedal. Before I changed the distributor parts out, it didn't do this. It would take off like a scalded beast when I mashed the gas pedal
What all did you change out?
If you changed the module.....did you buy a premium one and use liberal amounts of heat sink compound on the back side?
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Feb 26, 2021 at 12:53 PM.
I changed out the ignition module, coil, and distributor cap. It runs great unless I floor it. Then it hesitates and sputters. It even just shut off and came right back on while driving. The tachometer stuck at 2000 too. The RPM climb just fine if I drive it normally. But under load, flooring it, it does all that. What could it be ?
I changed out the ignition module, coil, and distributor cap. It runs great unless I floor it. Then it hesitates and sputters. It even just shut off and came right back on while driving. The tachometer stuck at 2000 too. The RPM climb just fine if I drive it normally. But under load, flooring it, it does all that. What could it be ?
Unfortunately I think you did something wrong.......check your pin out on the module and the button under the coil.......make sure it has the little spring in it and the rubber bushing has dielectric grease on it too.
Also...check the wires as mentioned above in this thread......the wires to the pickup coil and the module itself.....the tach gets its signal from the pickup coil so it is suspect.
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Feb 26, 2021 at 01:50 PM.
I took pictures. I always do. Here's after I installed the module and the new cap and coil. I put the pin with the spring in under the rubber washer. The only thing I didn't replace were the weights and the distributor pick up coil
Last edited by JayGreer; Feb 26, 2021 at 02:06 PM.
If a '76 is like a '74, you may have simply suffered from vapor lock. I replaced a fuel pump once with one that was described as appropriate for my car. It had an inlet from the gas tank but no return outlet. The routing on my fuel lines were in the stock location and didn't seem to be particularly exposed to the heat from the exhaust system (also stock) so I installed the pump. I don't know how long I ran it that way, at least months if not longer. On three occasions I had the car simply quit but I didn't know why. Eventually I figured it must be vapor lock so I replaced the fuel pump with the correct return outlet. I've had no problems since and it's been at least ten years.
Haggis beat me to it, but his info is correct. 
New Distributor help please
Then make sure the vacuum hoses are all hooked up, and then check under the distributor cap to make sure the mechanical advance weights didn't get disturbed, or one of the wires isn't getting in the way of the weights. I've found when a 'new' problem pops up after doing a repair, 95% of the time it's usually something I didn't put back together correctly.
