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Persistent fuel issue

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Old Feb 27, 2021 | 11:14 PM
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Default Persistent fuel issue

Hi all, im sure this is a basic question, but im really lost on a issue im having with my car.

Car is a 76’L, L-48, engine/trans is completely stock

Drives around fine, but under full throttle, once it gets around 55mph it just spits and sputters and falls on its face. Seems like its running out of fuel. Sometimes its better, sometimes its worse but it never runs correctly. Temperature doesnt seem to have an effect

plugs are telling me lean, (whitish appearance)

I have been fighting this issue for almost a year and I just cannot figure out whats broken

entire ignition system is brand new, carb rebuilt 2 years ago, was running fine, all new fuel lines and hoses front to back, new mechanical fuel pump, new fuel filter

I dropped the tank when I did the lines and inspected inside, found nothing visibly wrong, sock was dirty but I could blow through it

my current suspects are either the EVAP system or the tank bladder

Im at a loss. Any input from you guys would be appreciated. Im still learning, and im getting frustrated with the randomness of this issue. Thanks.

Last edited by MGC/D_7601; Feb 28, 2021 at 12:28 AM.
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Old Feb 27, 2021 | 11:49 PM
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I would pull line to carb and measure pressure and flow while cranking..pressure spec n pic..flow i have to look up..
other than that maybe float stuck or misadjusted? Clogged sock in tank?
if bored
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...e-on-road.html


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Old Feb 28, 2021 | 09:22 AM
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Max torq and HP for the L48 is between 3800 RPM and 4400 RPM.
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Old Feb 28, 2021 | 09:44 AM
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It sounds like it is running lean. Confirm your secondaries are fully opening, because that is easy, as a start and go from there.
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Old Feb 28, 2021 | 10:22 AM
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Make sure you have the correct gas cap.
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Old Feb 28, 2021 | 02:32 PM
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Even if the carb is being starved for fuel, it shouldn't run lean (due to an issue NOT internal to the carb). The secondary air valve won't open any farther than the engine rpm (and resulting airflow) will allow. I would think problem is most likely an ignition or timing problem. If you have a points ignition system, the condenser might need replacement OR you may have a poor electrical ground path for the ignition. (Ground for ignition is via the chassis-to-engine block-to-distributor hold down clamp-to distributor housing. If any of the 'contact' points in that run are painted or not 'electrically' clean, poor ground and weak ignition will result.)
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Old Mar 1, 2021 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by resdoggie
It sounds like it is running lean. Confirm your secondaries are fully opening, because that is easy, as a start and go from there.
Best I can tell, from both the way it drives before it stumbles and how the linkage and secondary throttle blades move, the secondaries are ok.
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Old Mar 1, 2021 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by interpon
I would pull line to carb and measure pressure and flow while cranking..pressure spec n pic..flow i have to look up..
other than that maybe float stuck or misadjusted? Clogged sock in tank?
if bored
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...e-on-road.html

Ive yet to T- in my gauge, but the sock in my fuel tank is visibly dirty. When I had the gas tank out, I checked it, it seemed to flow ok, but I already ordered another one. once I get the tank back in, ill check the floats, thanks.
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Old Mar 1, 2021 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Factoid
Make sure you have the correct gas cap.
I have my original 45- year old gold one. Just ordered a new one to rule out possibilities.
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Old Mar 1, 2021 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Even if the carb is being starved for fuel, it shouldn't run lean (due to an issue NOT internal to the carb). The secondary air valve won't open any farther than the engine rpm (and resulting airflow) will allow. I would think problem is most likely an ignition or timing problem. If you have a points ignition system, the condenser might need replacement OR you may have a poor electrical ground path for the ignition. (Ground for ignition is via the chassis-to-engine block-to-distributor hold down clamp-to distributor housing. If any of the 'contact' points in that run are painted or not 'electrically' clean, poor ground and weak ignition will result.)
I didn't think of this actually, ill have to verify my grounds. my car has HEI ignition and its OEM distributor. New coil, recent cap and rotor. Thanks for the input.

Last edited by MGC/D_7601; Mar 1, 2021 at 03:57 PM.
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Old Mar 1, 2021 | 12:46 PM
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Dropped the tank, bladder was sitting funny inside the tank, removed the bladder and ill be running the steel tank. Found the evap line on the drivers side of the car broken. new sock coming in this week. New gas cap on the way. New S hose on its way. New fuel filter on its way. Today after repairing the evap line I'm going to check fuel flow rate of the feed line. As suggested while I'm waiting for the sock, ill check the ground integrity of the ignition system. Thanks a bunch for all the help. I've planned a 2 hour highway road trip with the car thinking the new fuel pump I put in in December solved the issue, but it clearly hasn't. I have to figure this out, because it'll never make it on the highway if I cant use the secondaires to merge.
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Old Mar 1, 2021 | 01:01 PM
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I had fuel supply issues after working on the tank in mine once, When putting the tank back in place the supply and return lines crossed causing the supply line to get pinched, took me a while to figure it out.

Neal
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Old Mar 1, 2021 | 01:48 PM
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If you have the fuel vapor canister, your fuel tank does not have a vent and the cap is non-vented. This is because the vapor canister becomes the vent for the tank when it is connected to the system. If you have disconnected the fuel vapor canister, you must put a VENTED cap on your tank or it will develop negative pressure in the tank as the fuel is used.
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Old Mar 1, 2021 | 02:02 PM
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What about the filter?

Dom
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Old Mar 1, 2021 | 04:25 PM
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I fought the same problem for a while and after changing filters, checking the pump, tipple checking the ignition, I tried a can of SeaFoam in desperation.
It started getting better in just a few miles.
I was truly amazed at how well it worked.
On sale right now, $8 at Napa.
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Old Mar 3, 2021 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
If you have the fuel vapor canister, your fuel tank does not have a vent and the cap is non-vented. This is because the vapor canister becomes the vent for the tank when it is connected to the system. If you have disconnected the fuel vapor canister, you must put a VENTED cap on your tank or it will develop negative pressure in the tank as the fuel is used.
This is my current suspicion. I'm completely overhauling the evap system right now.
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Old Mar 3, 2021 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by domenic tallarita
What about the filter?

Dom
Old filter had less than 2000 miles on it and did have a little dirt in it, but its being replaced. Thanks for the reply.
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Old Mar 3, 2021 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Sayfoo
I fought the same problem for a while and after changing filters, checking the pump, tipple checking the ignition, I tried a can of SeaFoam in desperation.
It started getting better in just a few miles.
I was truly amazed at how well it worked.
On sale right now, $8 at Napa.
Once I get the tank back into the car, I will be 100% sure to run some of this stuff. I've heard a whole bunch of good things about it.
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Old Mar 6, 2021 | 01:11 PM
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Default Fixed?

Got the car back together, took it for a nice long ride and opened the secondaries up a few times. No stumbling, no problem, and now I dont smell like gasoline when I get out. Im going to daily it for a few days to make sure nothing comes up but it did good on the test drive. Just as a recap, new evap lines, new charcoal canister, new sending unit, removed tank bladder, new fuel lines, new S hose, new fuel pump, new fuel filter, new gas cap. Based on what I saw, im thinking the evap was the issue. Thank you all again for your help.
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