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B&M Shift Improver Kit

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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 01:52 PM
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Default B&M Shift Improver Kit

I have a '79 L48 with TH350 and 60,000 original miles. Nice driver quality car that I've owned for 2 years and I use as my daily during the summer months. I currently have the oil pan off to replace the rear main seal while I'm under the car am doing a filter/fluid change on the transmission. Thinking of installing a B&M Shifter Improver Kit while I'm hear. Transmission shifts fine just want a little firmer shift etc. Hard to find any opinions/reviews on this forum and what I find on-line seems to be 10+ years old. Anyone with more current experience that would care to comment on pros/cons? I'm mostly like going to install the Heavy Duty option vs. Street/Strip. Thanks for any insight.

James Smith
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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 01:58 PM
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I have installed many in my life and there is nothing wrong with them. It is a bit difficult while you are on your back because you have to flip the instructions upside down in your head but it is possible even for a novice if you pay attention and follow instructions. The Heavy Duty is a better choice if you drive it a lot.....the street/strip is a bit of a head banger. Now is the time to install an aluminum pan with a drain plug.......

Jebby
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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 02:35 PM
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Go for it, done a few they work great and arent complicated
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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Jebbysan
I have installed many in my life and there is nothing wrong with them. It is a bit difficult while you are on your back because you have to flip the instructions upside down in your head but it is possible even for a novice if you pay attention and follow instructions. The Heavy Duty is a better choice if you drive it a lot.....the street/strip is a bit of a head banger. Now is the time to install an aluminum pan with a drain plug.......

Jebby

X2 for swapping out the pan for one with a drain plug - makes ALL future trans maintenance so much easier
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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 07:34 PM
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Try just filling it back up with B & M Trick Shift Fluid. It might be just that little extra you are looking for. ANd definitely put in the drain plug.
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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 07:43 PM
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I've set them up as the street/ strip configuration, and it will give you the neck snapping, tire chirping, that u-joint needed replaced anyway shift, when under full throttle, but it was pretty tame just driving around town.

YMMV
Jeff
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Old Mar 18, 2021 | 01:56 AM
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I installed one in my 1980 in probably 1981 or so. First Automatic Transmission work I ever did. Everybody has there opinion on who's kit is the best. Transgo has a very good rep but it was made for a real Trans Shop to install. I installed the B&M because they had the best Instructions made for somebody who no prior experience in a Trans. When ever somebody went for a ride in my car they would always say " I want my car to shift just like this " It was the street strip version. Since I have installed a Transgo and the instructions are perfectly fine.
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Old Mar 18, 2021 | 10:36 AM
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I have installed several over the years as well as the Trans go kit. The B&M in my opinion is not worth the money. If you are up for it, remove the valve body and separator plate and drill out 2 oil passages and solder another shut. Remove 3 check ***** and put a stainless one back in on the other location. Also machine a spacer for the accumulator spring to limit some movement. Homemade kit worked great and allowed my TH350 to survive behind a Big Block. I used red clutches and had the direct drum that held 5 clutches. Our C3's have the same direct drum. I will have to dig for it if it is something you are interested in tackling but have the instructions somewhere for it .
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Old Mar 18, 2021 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by djquik1
I have installed several over the years as well as the Trans go kit. The B&M in my opinion is not worth the money. If you are up for it, remove the valve body and separator plate and drill out 2 oil passages and solder another shut. Remove 3 check ***** and put a stainless one back in on the other location. Also machine a spacer for the accumulator spring to limit some movement. Homemade kit worked great and allowed my TH350 to survive behind a Big Block. I used red clutches and had the direct drum that held 5 clutches. Our C3's have the same direct drum. I will have to dig for it if it is something you are interested in tackling but have the instructions somewhere for it .
This is exactly right....with the B&M...you are basically buying instructions....which you can download....but for the novice, you get a drill bit, some gaskets a spring and a spacer....in the box.

Jebby

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Old Mar 18, 2021 | 10:43 PM
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Thanks for all the replies. This will be the first auto trans work I've ever done so not interested this time in modifying the existing components. Overall the B&M kit doesn't look too bad and unless it flat out doesn't work, the $50 doesn't give me heartburn. Probably only drive this set up for a summer or two, want to upgrade to a 200R4.

James
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Old Mar 19, 2021 | 08:49 AM
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I think you meant 2004R
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Old Mar 20, 2021 | 12:24 PM
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I had a B&M shift kit in my '79 about 25 years ago but I didn't install it myself. I was very happy with the shift quality. I swapped in a 700R4 after a few years with the TH350. The 700 was great for the overdrive, but I always felt the 350 shifted better with the kit in it.
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Old Mar 20, 2021 | 10:05 PM
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Have a B&M shift kit in my 75, tb 400 trans, if i remember correctly they gave you the options of street, RV towing, sport, and strip, i went with sport. Its lasted some 25 years now.
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Old Mar 21, 2021 | 12:46 AM
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If you take your time sifting thru the site PATCO will address any problem possible and tell you which part(s) needed to correct the problem. I think their facility is in Shreveport/Bossier City La. I have rebuilt two limping Chevy and Ford trans with their stuff for less than $100 each...put 100,000 miles on each transmission

These books are step-by-step/color pics/any transmission you need to work on.....

after rebuild.

Last edited by doorgunner; Mar 21, 2021 at 12:49 AM.
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Old Mar 27, 2021 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by djquik1
If you are up for it, remove the valve body and separator plate and drill out 2 oil passages and solder another shut. Remove 3 check ***** and put a stainless one back in on the other location. Also machine a spacer for the accumulator spring to limit some movement.
Not all, but the last one I did had the check *****, a drill bit, I believe a spacer and maybe even separate plates to choose from. Don't remember what brand, but it was easy to do with good instructions. That would have been in an '87 Chevy pickup, so it was a 700R4 if I remember correctly...
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