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Gravity Brake Bleeding

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Old Apr 9, 2021 | 02:49 PM
  #21  
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From: Loveland
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What did you do as a complete brake job? Just change the pads, or change calipers, lines and MC?
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Old Apr 9, 2021 | 02:54 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by kodpkd
What did you do as a complete brake job? Just change the pads, or change calipers, lines and MC?
All Four Calipers with Lone Star O ring SS sleeved. All the Flex lines front and rear.
M/C is/was fine.
Pads were Evolution Ceramics.
New rotors trammed in to .0005-.001 R/O

Unk.
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Old Apr 10, 2021 | 09:32 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by cagotzmann
or make one like this. Use your air compressor.


Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
have you tried a pressure bleeder, really fast and no stress. Just dont pressurize it too high.
Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
That would work cagotzmann. But it would be a constant battle to keep checking / adding to the fluid level.
If the MC goes dry, you are screwed.
Originally Posted by kodpkd
I have been pushing this method for a few months. Raising the rear up high. I think people think we are nuts. After more than a year I finally got a hard pedal doing this,,,,, even after bench bleeding the MC you get more air out.
Taking all of these comments into consideration and not really wanting to spend $$ on a Motive just to use it as a pressure tank, I elected to make my own MC pressure plate and use my shop compressor, using cagotzmann's setup as a model. With HeadsU.P.'s observation about frequently checking fluid and ignatz's glass test tube reply, I remembered I have a bunch of 1" acrylic and polycarbonate scraps I picked up while dumpster diving a few years ago. Taadah, a see-through pressure plate! Traced the stock MC cap perimeter, cut it out on a bandsaw, sanded the edges, drilled, tapped, and JB Welded for a barb fitting, and stuck 1/8" neoprene on the MC mating surface. I also had a 1/4 turn bleed valve in my parts stash so included that in the air hose line to relieve the pressure slowly when removing the plate.

I started with bleeding the MC on the car; though instead of raising the rear I unbolted the MC from the booster, pulled it off the studs and pushrod, and positioned it with the rear slightly higher than the front. I then used the plate and a rotary vane vacuum pump to pull a vacuum on the MC for about 5 seconds to see if any air bubbles came up -- a few small ones did. Then I connected the compressor air line which was dialed way back to only send ~15 lbs to the plate. Everything worked very well and I came to the observation that jacking the car, removing and replacing the wheel at each corner, and lowering the car again took longer than the actual bleeding process.

Thanks everyone!



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Old Apr 10, 2021 | 10:20 PM
  #24  
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I like the innovation. A good pressure/suction bleeder. I may not have explained the method of bleeding the MC while on the car correctly. It really couldn't be easier. 2 steps. First, just jack up the rear of the car until the MC tilts forwards, then slowly push the brake pedal,,,, that's it. Watch the bubbles.
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Old Apr 10, 2021 | 11:43 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by kodpkd
I like the innovation. A good pressure/suction bleeder. I may not have explained the method of bleeding the MC while on the car correctly. It really couldn't be easier. 2 steps. First, just jack up the rear of the car until the MC tilts forwards, then slowly push the brake pedal,,,, that's it. Watch the bubbles.
What you said was clear to me. It was raining this morning, so could only work on the car in my garage but there's not enough room on each side to raise the rear. That's why I decided to pull the MC off the booster instead.
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