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I just looked up that strap kit part number to see if it was steel or alum like some I've seen and it says you got the 1310 kit BBSK-10, BBSK-FS is the 1330 kit. Now I've seen that some have 1310/1330 straps on dennydriveshaft or other places BUT I'm no expert like https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p83...30_series.html
It just bugs me that they have a kit for each size and now I wanna know the diff(no pun intended LOL)
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I just found out what the diff is. BBSK-10 has a 1.415" distance bolt to bolt. Too small for the Corvette rear end yoke. BBSK-FS has a 1.576" distance bolt to bolt, which I hope will fit. I just ordered the correct (I hope part). I hope Summit is quick again.
Bee-Jay - Not sure if you realize this but; On the U-joints make sure you install them with the grease fitting in compression and not tension. Reasoning is - a hole in tension will tear but a hole compression will not. Ask me how I know.
So, all I need is yokes from a 1982 rear end, or a four speed 80-81? I’ll look for a pair, but I’m using what I got for the summer. I’ll bump up the 315s back to 32psi and avoid wot downshifts in the mean time.
You will need the side yokes, half shafts, and the spindle yokes to make the conversion. The ratios were 2.72 for the manual trans, and a 2.87 for the auto for 81 and 82. I did this exact conversion on my 81 automatic car. You can use either the 82 components or the 80-81 manual components to make the change over.
Hey Bee Jay,
I see this thread has taken a turn from upgrading u-joints to tearing down and rebuilding/upgrading your rear diff.
If you are seriously thinking about getting into the rear differential and upgrading your 80-82, maybe you should seriously consider replacing it with an iron differential and build something more bullet proof.
It won’t be cheap, but if you save your pennies, you could have a great 21-22 winter season project and do it right once.
Hey Bee Jay,
I see this thread has taken a turn from upgrading u-joints to tearing down and rebuilding/upgrading your rear diff.
If you are seriously thinking about getting into the rear differential and upgrading your 80-82, maybe you should seriously consider replacing it with an iron differential and build something more bullet proof.
It won’t be cheap, but if you save your pennies, you could have a great 21-22 winter season project and do it right once.
I took the original 3.55 iron diff out to put this in!!! I was trimming weight! Not putting it back in.
Or you could do this. Yes it does require the iron differential but you keep the aluminum batwing. And of course......not cheap. LOL. It does not include the differential.
Eaton Diff for your 80-82 Corvette
D812 80-82 Eaton Differential Conversion Kit $695
We can't make the aluminum case Dana differential as tough as the iron case Eaton that came in the 65-79's. The Eaton carrier is just way stronger, and the ring and pinion is designed to handle much more power. If you are thinking about putting big horsepower in your 80-82, this may be your best choice. This part number includes everything you need to switch from the Dana to the Eaton but the Eaton differential itself. You keep your Dana batwing / rear cover. You can select an Eaton differential from either the 63-79 Differential page or the Racing Corvette Parts, Engine and Driveline page. Send us your old Dana differential, half shaft assemblies and spindle flanges, and we will buy them as cores.
Remember, this does not include the differential, which you need to buy separately. You keep your batwing - it does not come in the kit. You will get a gasket with the differential and the proper bolts to secure the differential to your batwing. We will provide a transition U-Joint to go between your stock driveshaft and your new pinion yoke. If you have a non-standard driveshaft U-joint, let us know!
Free Freight
Last edited by MattoonVette; Apr 20, 2021 at 08:53 PM.
Disassembly and autopsy completed. Looks like one of the strap bolts failed. GM expected these tiny bolts to hold 200hp? I expected it to hold 500hp! And I get a huge torque spike at wot 1-2 shifts according to my dyno. My 2500 rpm stall torque converter and sticky 315 tires was too much. Hopefully this billet strap and thicker bolts can do the job. I have to drill and tap the yokes up in the car.
Disassembly and autopsy completed. Looks like one of the strap bolts failed. GM expected these tiny bolts to hold 200hp? I expected it to hold 500hp! And I get a huge torque spike at wot 1-2 shifts according to my dyno. My 2500 rpm stall torque converter and sticky 315 tires was too much. Hopefully this billet strap and thicker bolts can do the job. I have to drill and tap the yokes up in the car.
1/4" 12 point correct? That is why I moved on to the manual parts. They use 5/16" 12 points instead of the 1/4" 12 point bolts. I also tracked down 170,000 tensile strength, 5/16" 12 point bolts to replace the stock ones which were too short after I went to the billet caps Dave made me.
Last edited by MattoonVette; Apr 21, 2021 at 04:57 PM.
I just found out what the diff is. BBSK-10 has a 1.415" distance bolt to bolt. Too small for the Corvette rear end yoke. BBSK-FS has a 1.576" distance bolt to bolt, which I hope will fit. I just ordered the correct (I hope part). I hope Summit is quick again.
The BBSK-FS caps showed up today. They have the correct bolt spacing, but they are built for the larger Ford 1330 u joints. I’ve started tapping the side yikes for the larger grade 8, 5/16” -24 bolts hex cap bolts. I’m making spacers to make these work. It says right on the package some hand fitting may be required. I need a pair of stroker vette’s 1330 billet caps.
Yes, the spring you gave me.
How are you Gee-Kool?
How am I? I tore up my shoulder in an ATV accident and can't install my 434 right now. Another **** poor planning on my part!
So how does your old yellow do autocrossing these days with a 420 spring?
I was driving my friends 2007 Z06 the other day trying to teach him how to do drag race or stop light drags with both Competitive Driving Mode and everything off. I did 4 who knows 50 - 100 yard burnouts from 2500 rpm launches. His tires are old and the pavement was cold. It so different from my antique 79.
Just got a set of billet caps from stroker Vette! Damn they are pretty. I’m going home for Mother’s Day, so I’ll wait a couple of weeks to install. I’ll modify my gas tank while I’m in there.
Just got a set of billet caps from stroker Vette! Damn they are pretty. I’m going home for Mother’s Day, so I’ll wait a couple of weeks to install. I’ll modify my gas tank while I’m in there.
They are! I know there was no way I could paint mine black so they are just clear coated. LOLOL. He does do nice work!
Bee Jay,
I f you want to clear them I would skip the id due to the exact fit. I use something like amsoil metal protector for the id corrosion resistance after the clear dries. Attached is picture of your caps on new spicer u-joint.
If that U-Joint holds after this mod. I bet the carrier goes before you know it. I had a NOS GM 3.55 Dana 44. I went to Toms and got the better shafts , u-joints and hardened stub axles and ran it. BOOM on a dead hook. Thats when I went to a Chrome molly fab9 4 link. Saved weight and never worried about the rear end again.
