When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The spline count is 29 on the dana 44 for 80-82 corvettes. The dana can hold your power output with a steel cap.
Here are a few pictures of the dana stub axle and u-joint caps.
Hi Mike! How's the progress on the frame off coming.
Hi Dave! Slowly but surely. I lost about 7-8 months of build time when I moved in 2019. Back at it now and getting close to hopefully firing it up again soon. Working on getting all the new wiring harnesses installed plus the HGM trans controller and Pro Flo fuel injection system all wired up. Oh and an electric headlight motor kit, LOL. Body is back on and doors all checked for alignment. After I get it fired up again I will start on the paint.
Sorry for the interruption.......now back to your regularly scheduled conversation.
The stock strap are not the issue. Load is. Those caps pictured most likely have to be fit otherwise the caps could be an issue.
Here's what I don't get- 79 axles are 17 spline, 80-82 DANA Diffs are a finer spline, I don't recall the count but they are not interchangeable. The Eaton spiders are a different size, larger then the DANA. So how is that?
Upgrade to 1350 half shafts and this strap kit from Van Steel. Van Steel Strap Kit
FYI tried some of these on my C4 and they hit the factory alum halfshafts, Vansteel said they are for use with factor Dia steel. Just figured I'd share for anyone with larger dia shafts, I have PST alum larger dia on my C3
That said been using the factory straps on my C4 w/o issue and drag radials so far
Summit Racing is awesome! I ordered on Friday, and these parts showed up Saturday. I could not find solid 1330/1350 conversion u joints, but Moog said that their greaseable u joints were just as strong. Check out the 1330 straps! Maybe this will solve my ujoint problem, then on to the next weakest link. Thank goodness it’s not my 700r4 anymore. I used to break that regularly, but after I splurged on a good hi performance tranny and torque converter, it’s been 10 Autocross seasons, and a year of this 427 LS , with no tranny issues. I hope this rear end holds up. 1330 strap fit. 1330 strap and 1330/1350 conversion u joint. 1330 vs 1350
Summit Racing is awesome! I ordered on Friday, and these parts showed up Saturday. I could not find solid 1330/1350 conversion u joints, but Moog said that their greaseable u joints were just as strong. Check out the 1330 straps! Maybe this will solve my ujoint problem, then on to the next weakest link. 1330 strap fit.
I just looked up that strap kit part number to see if it was steel or alum like some I've seen and it says you got the 1310 kit BBSK-10, BBSK-FS is the 1330 kit. Now I've seen that some have 1310/1330 straps on dennydriveshaft or other places BUT I'm no expert like https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p83...30_series.html
Lastly who did you ask at moog, all tech has to be questioned these day and it's 9/10 times a low paid person who may know less than you. I think it's well documented that the zerk hole/threads is a weak/failure point.
I dug up a couple of my old post cause I went thru this a few times with my C4, I know I posted on some forum bout my C3 halfshaft U-bolts but I can't find it and it was long ago. Basically I bought some U-bolts and they looked like garbage, all pitted n junk. So I bought some spicer(I think) and thye were much better quality. I think also in that discussion it was talked bout how either were fine and it was the u-joint that was the weak point. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...haf-shaft.html
I know that I didn't use them cause one is still right here on top of my desk LOL
Also I know this thread is bout caps not U-bolts but even so, searching for my old thread I came across those who run kinda fast with more concern bout the u-joint it seems.
You will have to remove the Batwing and remove a Circlip and then just pull out the old one and slip in the new Yoke. The Circlip can be difficult if You don't have an angled pair of Circlip Pliers. Don't plan on just using some Screwdrivers on this one. This will not change the " Set up" of the rear end at all. If You have a leaking Stub Shaft Seal You can replace them at the same time. Since the Stub Axels are a high wear idem due to poor or little heat treatment from the factory You might find that the ones You have now are overdue to be replaced anyway. I would consider this approach the best choice for Your breaking U-Joint issues. I have run the same set up with Spicer solid 1350's using Billet Caps since the mid 1980's and never broke one yet. This is behind a 400 CI engine with 9 PSI Boost. I did however break a few of the 1330's behind the stock engine. The only drawback I see to doing this is You might find Yourself falling down the rabbit hole. When You find the original Yokes have worn out and filled the rear end with metal, and then You decide to change the Gear Ratio, and then You need a new Posi, and then You decide to install Billet Caps and then .....
Depending on what gear ratio You are running now You might start shopping for a used rear end that all ready has the correct stub axels. These rear ends sell for cheap there is not much of a demand for them since the Street Rod crowd has passed them by and are no longer is style. Most sellers have no clue as to what U-Joints they have. An easy way to find out is to look at the Bolts holding the caps, 1/4" for 1330's and 5/16" for 1350's. The 80-81 Manual Trans Cars had the 1350's and all 1982's had them. The 1980's had 3:07 Gear Ratio and the that later cars had 2:65 or :2.87. I have some of them laying around but it would probably cost more to ship from the Seattle area than they are worth to You.
So, all I need is yokes from a 1982 rear end, or a four speed 80-81? I’ll look for a pair, but I’m using what I got for the summer. I’ll bump up the 315s back to 32psi and avoid wot downshifts in the mean time.
