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I did my brakes and have put some miles on my '74 small block coupe. Rebuilt the engine, has only a fewhundred miles, haven't even properly tuned it up yet. Original(?)tach drive distributor, New cap, rotor, coil, wires, plugs. Old Alison points eliminator. Car was running fine, then quit, had it towed home on a Saturday night. Checked the next day, had spark from the coil, and the plug wire, but I didn't trust it so I ordered a new F.A.S.T. XR700. Installed it, now I only have spark from the coil, not the plug wire. Any ideas?
Do you own a ohm meter and can check the plug wire resistance?
Have you tried one or more of the old plug wires?
Have you removed the cap and rechecked the rotor?
Took it all apart and checked everything, looks good, cap, rotor, coil, wires, plugs all have less than a thousand miles. I have some sort of meter with two probes, not the kind with the big pincher on it. I am severely challenged when it comes to electrical.
How did you determine you have spark from the coil, did you disconnect the center wire from the cap and hold it near a metal engine part while cranking and see a spark jump?
how did you determine you have no spark at the plugs, did you disconnect a wire from a plug, insert a screwdriver into the wire boot and then hold the screwdriver near a metal engine part while cranking and not see a spark?
Yes and yes. A couple of my friends, who are more talented than me, determined that the optical trigger got damaged when another slightly less talented friend and myself installed it. We will be dropping in an HEI so I can make it to the show tomorrow. I hope it's just a simple swap, no special parts needed?
In my limited experience those optical trigger ignition systems are notoriously unreliable and offer no advantage over an HEI. And yes, swapping in an HEI is about as simple as it gets, assuming you understand how to time the engine correctly.
The only disadvantage is my tach won’t work now. I guess I can swap in a ‘75 or later tach?
Yes if you have a cable driven tach its not going to work with a factory HEI. There are HEI distributors available with the tach drive. The other option is to convert your point style distributor with an electronic conversion setup, which is obviously what you were trying to do with the optical setup. Not a bad plan - just the optical setup can be problematic. I have used the Pertronix kit with good results. Or you can just stick with points. For all we drive these cars its not a bad option.
If you do decide to install an HEI remember to eliminate your ballast resistor. HEIs require a full 12 volts.
Try to run a 12ga wire from the BAT on the HEI to the switched ign on your fuse box.......that 12v wire draws a lot of current and smaller wires heat up.......was classic in the 80's when all the Backyard Bill's started converting their crap to HEI.....leaving the 18ga wire to power it and having it melt.
You can buy premade HEI power plug w/wire.....makes for a clean install. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10552-GM-HE...-/302474328573
Yes if you have a cable driven tach its not going to work with a factory HEI. There are HEI distributors available with the tach drive. The other option is to convert your point style distributor with an electronic conversion setup, which is obviously what you were trying to do with the optical setup. Not a bad plan - just the optical setup can be problematic. I have used the Pertronix kit with good results. Or you can just stick with points. For all we drive these cars its not a bad option.
If you do decide to install an HEI remember to eliminate your ballast resistor. HEIs require a full 12 volts.
Agree with keeping points! Never been stranded with points! Stranded and towed home 2 times with bad factory hei modules!
You can go to Pertronix electronic ignition module installed in your original distributor and keep your tach drive system. If you have already purchased the HEI, you could resell it to someone as it is "new" and the net expense of going Pertronix would not be much of a loss.