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So I heard a ticking noise coming from me engine and decided to check it out, and I'm glad it did. The rocker arms have tons of side to side play, but they still only have about 0.024 clearance like their supposed to. Would this be due to worn out rocker arms or are they just not tight enough?
Rookie reply: the lifters are "bleeding down" after the engine is stopped and it cools off. There are some good threads recently about adjsting them correctly without bending a pushrod or burning a valve.
Do a forum search......"adjusting lifters" or "adjusting rocker arms".
So I heard a ticking noise coming from me engine and decided to check it out, and I'm glad it did. The rocker arms have tons of side to side play, but they still only have about 0.024 clearance like their supposed to. Would this be due to worn out rocker arms or are they just not tight enough?
Well...this isn't an LT-1, so verify that it is a solid lifter camshaft.....all LT-1's came with guide plates and the LT-1 was the only solid lifter small block available. Older 327's had solids with no guide plates from the C2 era.
Well...this isn't an LT-1, so verify that it is a solid lifter camshaft.....all LT-1's came with guide plates and the LT-1 was the only solid lifter small block available. Older 327's had solids with no guide plates from the C2 era.
Jebby
But when dealing with older cars, the current owner may not know the history of the car, with respect to what may have been (either correctly or incorrectly) done to it.
If it has solid lifters, .024" gap is too much. If it has hydraulic lifters, they should have NO gap (they should be adjusted to near-center position of the lifter valve.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
If it has hydraulic lifters, the valves that are closed will have lifters that are bled down after shutdown, so it's normal for the rockers to feel very "loose", and they can be wobbled from side-to-side with the lifters bled down. There will be "lash" in the amount of the lifter pre-load, which will be in the .025"-range. Completely normal. If they're "ticking," adjust them. E-mail me for my paper on how to do it (and no - you don't adjust them with the engine running). Before adjusting, verify that you don't have a cam lobe that has gone flat by disabling the ignition system and cranking the engine over while observing the rocker movement - the loose rockers should visually have the same "travel movement" as the others.
If you have solid lifters (unlikely in the engine shown in your photos with no guideplates) you should check and adjust the lash to the cam manufacturer's specs. Lash specs vary by cam grind and manufacturer anywhere from tight-lash cams with .015" lash to the factory solid cams running about .026".
Is that the original cam, and is it solid or hydraulic? Did you do any engine work prior to this noise? I'm assuming it was running fine at one time. Is this a driver, or has it sat for a while.
If you did adjust the lash, how long ago was it done?
I have no idea what process the OP was using to "set" the lifters....whether he released load on them before rotating to base circle position---or not.
If these are hydraulics that have bled down then why the ticking while running? They should have pumped up. Are they pressed in studs? Is it every rocker, or most. Just wondering if some studs lifted a bit.
Last edited by Mrvettenick; May 25, 2021 at 08:09 PM.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Geezus... just adjust the lifters, button it up, and drive it. It takes 10 minutes to correctly set all the lifter preloads, which is less time than it takes to read this thread.
Lars
If these are hydraulics that have bled down then why the ticking while running? They should have pumped up. Are they pressed in studs? Is it every rocker, or most. Just wondering if some studs lifted a bit.
Legit question. And this goes back to post 4: What oil (zinc?) is being used regardless of the type of lifter, solid or hyd.
If it's a wiped cam. I would adjust one rocker to zero lash, then rotate the cam to see what lift is there, and does it match the cam spec. I would not run that engine until you are sure what you're up against.