Over heating issue.
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,209
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
The thermostat sets the engines operating temperature by varying its opening based on coolant temperature. Reel that in. The stat controls the coolant flow and hence, the engine's normal operating temperature i.e. the stat rating of say 180*, can/will vary within a few degrees of the stats temperature rating based on engine load. Same as your house ts. The other players in the cooling system are the water pump which moves the coolant and the radiator which transfers the heat to the cooler ambient air. If an engine begins to overheat whether at idle or at speed, it means the stat is fully open to allow maximum coolant to flow into the block but the coolant from the rad has not transferred enough heat to the ambient air and therefore can't keep the engine at its normal operating temperature eventually leading to boil over unless there is a change to remove that heat. That can be achieved by reducing engine load, replace water pump, flush rad or better to just replace rad, rad is too small for engine heat loads, insufficient air flow through rad, clutch fan wore out, electric fans too small or not working, rad seals missing (depends where you live), and maybe a few others. The majority of cooling issues, imo, is the radiator's cooling capacity has diminished and the coolant can no longer be cooled enough to keep the engine block at its normal operating temperature. Here's an analogy:
Take a pot of water, exactly one gallon, on a stove and heat to 180*. The object here is to keep the pot of water, which is akin to the water in an engine block of a fixed volume, at 180* while the stove burner, akin to the combustion chamber, is left turned on. If cooler water is not added, akin to a closed stat, the water will boil. But, you can add cooler water to the pot to keep the temperature at 180*. The overflowing water from the pot goes into a one gallon reservoir, akin to a rad, to be reused when needed to cool the pot of water to maintain that 180*. Now, the o/flow from the stove pot spills into the cooling pot where the water cools to room temperature of say 90*. You determine that you are constantly adding water to the pot on the stove to maintain its temp at 180*. The room gets warmer and now the temperature of your cooling pot of water is 100*. The stove pot temp keeps rising and begins to boil. You then have an idea. Add ice to the o/flow water from the stove pot to lower the temp. It is now cooled to 60* and lo and behold the stove pot water's temperature comes back down to 160*. But you want it at 180*. So you only need to add just enough room temperature water at 60* to maintain the stove pot water at 180*. No more overheating provided you can add water that is cool enough to reduce the stove pot water temperature while sitting on a burner. Guess what? You just acted as the thermostat adjusting the amount of water to cool the pot and the ice added to lower the cooling water was like a rad cooling the coolant in the o/flow pot. That's basically what's happening in the car's cooling system. The engine's temperature is controlled by the stat which varies the amount of cooled water into the block to keep it at 180*. The rad is just the source for cooled water and the pump circulates the water in which that amount is controlled by the stats valve modulation. So if the water can't be cooled ENOUGH in that rad, its because the rads capacity to cool is inadequate size, or air flow through the rad is insufficient, cooling flow through the rad is restricted by scale or stuck stat or worn out pump, ambient air is hotter than the rad size can keep up with to cool the coolant. That should cover most of the problems. In summary, the sole purpose of the thermostat is to control engine temperature, the sole purpose of the water pump is to circulate coolant and the sole purpose of the rad is to cool coolant.
If that stat is removed altogether, there is no control of the engine temperature. It will fluctuate, who knows where, with the ambient outside air which could be -40* or 110*. At -40, the coolant will probably freeze and the engine will over heat and at 110* the engine will again overheat. But you want say 180* and the only possible way to do that is a 180* rated stat. If you try to cool an engine's normal operating temp down to 160* by changing the stat to a 160*, it will work ONLY if your rad already has the cooling capacity to do that or a new rad is needed with a greater cooling capacity. I.e. a rad that will hold more coolant or an aluminium rad with appropriate cooling capacity.
Take a pot of water, exactly one gallon, on a stove and heat to 180*. The object here is to keep the pot of water, which is akin to the water in an engine block of a fixed volume, at 180* while the stove burner, akin to the combustion chamber, is left turned on. If cooler water is not added, akin to a closed stat, the water will boil. But, you can add cooler water to the pot to keep the temperature at 180*. The overflowing water from the pot goes into a one gallon reservoir, akin to a rad, to be reused when needed to cool the pot of water to maintain that 180*. Now, the o/flow from the stove pot spills into the cooling pot where the water cools to room temperature of say 90*. You determine that you are constantly adding water to the pot on the stove to maintain its temp at 180*. The room gets warmer and now the temperature of your cooling pot of water is 100*. The stove pot temp keeps rising and begins to boil. You then have an idea. Add ice to the o/flow water from the stove pot to lower the temp. It is now cooled to 60* and lo and behold the stove pot water's temperature comes back down to 160*. But you want it at 180*. So you only need to add just enough room temperature water at 60* to maintain the stove pot water at 180*. No more overheating provided you can add water that is cool enough to reduce the stove pot water temperature while sitting on a burner. Guess what? You just acted as the thermostat adjusting the amount of water to cool the pot and the ice added to lower the cooling water was like a rad cooling the coolant in the o/flow pot. That's basically what's happening in the car's cooling system. The engine's temperature is controlled by the stat which varies the amount of cooled water into the block to keep it at 180*. The rad is just the source for cooled water and the pump circulates the water in which that amount is controlled by the stats valve modulation. So if the water can't be cooled ENOUGH in that rad, its because the rads capacity to cool is inadequate size, or air flow through the rad is insufficient, cooling flow through the rad is restricted by scale or stuck stat or worn out pump, ambient air is hotter than the rad size can keep up with to cool the coolant. That should cover most of the problems. In summary, the sole purpose of the thermostat is to control engine temperature, the sole purpose of the water pump is to circulate coolant and the sole purpose of the rad is to cool coolant.
If that stat is removed altogether, there is no control of the engine temperature. It will fluctuate, who knows where, with the ambient outside air which could be -40* or 110*. At -40, the coolant will probably freeze and the engine will over heat and at 110* the engine will again overheat. But you want say 180* and the only possible way to do that is a 180* rated stat. If you try to cool an engine's normal operating temp down to 160* by changing the stat to a 160*, it will work ONLY if your rad already has the cooling capacity to do that or a new rad is needed with a greater cooling capacity. I.e. a rad that will hold more coolant or an aluminium rad with appropriate cooling capacity.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,656
Likes: 1,357
Back to your original question.
I don't suspect your thermostat but it's easy enough to pull it out, seal the system back up, and see if it still overheats. If it does NOT overheat then just put it back in.
THEN
1. Check you fan clutch. If it's bad replace it.
2. If it's not the fan clutch, and your radiator is old, then just replace it. Well worth it and you can find inexpensive options.
After that there are all kinds of things to do for fun but your system should be able to keep the stock engine at appropriate temp if the equipment is in suitable condition.
BTW- I have a mark-8 fan, a summit radiator, and a 140-amp CS-144 alternator---- but my system could keep my engine cool before I made the changes. The radiator needed to be replaced, because it leaked, but it was still able to cool.
I don't suspect your thermostat but it's easy enough to pull it out, seal the system back up, and see if it still overheats. If it does NOT overheat then just put it back in.
THEN
1. Check you fan clutch. If it's bad replace it.
2. If it's not the fan clutch, and your radiator is old, then just replace it. Well worth it and you can find inexpensive options.
After that there are all kinds of things to do for fun but your system should be able to keep the stock engine at appropriate temp if the equipment is in suitable condition.
BTW- I have a mark-8 fan, a summit radiator, and a 140-amp CS-144 alternator---- but my system could keep my engine cool before I made the changes. The radiator needed to be replaced, because it leaked, but it was still able to cool.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,007
Likes: 1,114
From: North tonawanda NY
The thermostat sets the engines operating temperature by varying its opening based on coolant temperature. Reel that in. The stat controls the coolant flow and hence, the engine's normal operating temperature i.e. the stat rating of say 180*, can/will vary within a few degrees of the stats temperature rating based on engine load. Same as your house ts. The other players in the cooling system are the water pump which moves the coolant and the radiator which transfers the heat to the cooler ambient air. If an engine begins to overheat whether at idle or at speed, it means the stat is fully open to allow maximum coolant to flow into the block but the coolant from the rad has not transferred enough heat to the ambient air and therefore can't keep the engine at its normal operating temperature eventually leading to boil over unless there is a change to remove that heat. That can be achieved by reducing engine load, replace water pump, flush rad or better to just replace rad, rad is too small for engine heat loads, insufficient air flow through rad, clutch fan wore out, electric fans too small or not working, rad seals missing (depends where you live), and maybe a few others. The majority of cooling issues, imo, is the radiator's cooling capacity has diminished and the coolant can no longer be cooled enough to keep the engine block at its normal operating temperature. Here's an analogy:
Take a pot of water, exactly one gallon, on a stove and heat to 180*. The object here is to keep the pot of water, which is akin to the water in an engine block of a fixed volume, at 180* while the stove burner, akin to the combustion chamber, is left turned on. If cooler water is not added, akin to a closed stat, the water will boil. But, you can add cooler water to the pot to keep the temperature at 180*. The overflowing water from the pot goes into a one gallon reservoir, akin to a rad, to be reused when needed to cool the pot of water to maintain that 180*. Now, the o/flow from the stove pot spills into the cooling pot where the water cools to room temperature of say 90*. You determine that you are constantly adding water to the pot on the stove to maintain its temp at 180*. The room gets warmer and now the temperature of your cooling pot of water is 100*. The stove pot temp keeps rising and begins to boil. You then have an idea. Add ice to the o/flow water from the stove pot to lower the temp. It is now cooled to 60* and lo and behold the stove pot water's temperature comes back down to 160*. But you want it at 180*. So you only need to add just enough room temperature water at 60* to maintain the stove pot water at 180*. No more overheating provided you can add water that is cool enough to reduce the stove pot water temperature while sitting on a burner. Guess what? You just acted as the thermostat adjusting the amount of water to cool the pot and the ice added to lower the cooling water was like a rad cooling the coolant in the o/flow pot. That's basically what's happening in the car's cooling system. The engine's temperature is controlled by the stat which varies the amount of cooled water into the block to keep it at 180*. The rad is just the source for cooled water and the pump circulates the water in which that amount is controlled by the stats valve modulation. So if the water can't be cooled ENOUGH in that rad, its because the rads capacity to cool is inadequate size, or air flow through the rad is insufficient, cooling flow through the rad is restricted by scale or stuck stat or worn out pump, ambient air is hotter than the rad size can keep up with to cool the coolant. That should cover most of the problems. In summary, the sole purpose of the thermostat is to control engine temperature, the sole purpose of the water pump is to circulate coolant and the sole purpose of the rad is to cool coolant.
If that stat is removed altogether, there is no control of the engine temperature. It will fluctuate, who knows where, with the ambient outside air which could be -40* or 110*. At -40, the coolant will probably freeze and the engine will over heat and at 110* the engine will again overheat. But you want say 180* and the only possible way to do that is a 180* rated stat. If you try to cool an engine's normal operating temp down to 160* by changing the stat to a 160*, it will work ONLY if your rad already has the cooling capacity to do that or a new rad is needed with a greater cooling capacity. I.e. a rad that will hold more coolant or an aluminium rad with appropriate cooling capacity.
Take a pot of water, exactly one gallon, on a stove and heat to 180*. The object here is to keep the pot of water, which is akin to the water in an engine block of a fixed volume, at 180* while the stove burner, akin to the combustion chamber, is left turned on. If cooler water is not added, akin to a closed stat, the water will boil. But, you can add cooler water to the pot to keep the temperature at 180*. The overflowing water from the pot goes into a one gallon reservoir, akin to a rad, to be reused when needed to cool the pot of water to maintain that 180*. Now, the o/flow from the stove pot spills into the cooling pot where the water cools to room temperature of say 90*. You determine that you are constantly adding water to the pot on the stove to maintain its temp at 180*. The room gets warmer and now the temperature of your cooling pot of water is 100*. The stove pot temp keeps rising and begins to boil. You then have an idea. Add ice to the o/flow water from the stove pot to lower the temp. It is now cooled to 60* and lo and behold the stove pot water's temperature comes back down to 160*. But you want it at 180*. So you only need to add just enough room temperature water at 60* to maintain the stove pot water at 180*. No more overheating provided you can add water that is cool enough to reduce the stove pot water temperature while sitting on a burner. Guess what? You just acted as the thermostat adjusting the amount of water to cool the pot and the ice added to lower the cooling water was like a rad cooling the coolant in the o/flow pot. That's basically what's happening in the car's cooling system. The engine's temperature is controlled by the stat which varies the amount of cooled water into the block to keep it at 180*. The rad is just the source for cooled water and the pump circulates the water in which that amount is controlled by the stats valve modulation. So if the water can't be cooled ENOUGH in that rad, its because the rads capacity to cool is inadequate size, or air flow through the rad is insufficient, cooling flow through the rad is restricted by scale or stuck stat or worn out pump, ambient air is hotter than the rad size can keep up with to cool the coolant. That should cover most of the problems. In summary, the sole purpose of the thermostat is to control engine temperature, the sole purpose of the water pump is to circulate coolant and the sole purpose of the rad is to cool coolant.
If that stat is removed altogether, there is no control of the engine temperature. It will fluctuate, who knows where, with the ambient outside air which could be -40* or 110*. At -40, the coolant will probably freeze and the engine will over heat and at 110* the engine will again overheat. But you want say 180* and the only possible way to do that is a 180* rated stat. If you try to cool an engine's normal operating temp down to 160* by changing the stat to a 160*, it will work ONLY if your rad already has the cooling capacity to do that or a new rad is needed with a greater cooling capacity. I.e. a rad that will hold more coolant or an aluminium rad with appropriate cooling capacity.
I do understand different thermostats with the same rating start to open at different temps prior to the temp and open and close partially to maintain a temp. The temps in my car were climbing around town due to the fans inability to keep temps downin stop and go traffic. Thats the only possible conclusion I can derive and multiple other people who have actually done this swap have stated similar results. I drove the car for over 7 years with the stock fan. I can clearly see a huge improvement with the new fans. I'm sure there's more to it thats being overlooked that just hp used and cams and somewhere in that is the best explanation of why electric fans work better in real world engine cooling applications if done right.
I have my set controller to turn on one fan at a 170ﾟ it and it maintains 174 this way unless it sitting for a long period idling. Then the temp slowly creeps up to where the second fan kicks on and the temp quickly drops to 171.. that os proof they are working very well. Especially when you consider my thermostat isn't even fully open until 180ﾟ.
Last edited by augiedoggy; May 30, 2021 at 09:14 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,284
Likes: 1,170
From: Hermosa
How is space a factor? That clutch fan could have more blades (oh ya the ac cars did, right?) The pitch of the blades could have been increased, of course then it would spin slower or draw even more HP to spin it. Are you saying that there couldn't be a larger diameter fan? Again would have to spin slower or have blade pitch reduced to prevent blade inefficiency at high RPM's or draw more HP to spin it.
I believe the fact that the radiator is not vertical makes a big difference, if that's what you mean by space.
The clutch fan represents the best of 1970's tech. If that's what a person wants then.... ok.
However I believe, no, I know, that there are far better and more efficient options with late 20th and 21st century technology. But don't try to sell me on the idea that it's better in this application because it simply is not. I've had both and I have a DIRECT comparison between the two on the same vehicle.
I understand that Electronic fuel injection is far superior to a carburetor. However I choose to use the carb over switching to FI. Why? because I like it.
But I'm not going to try to convince someone that my choice of using decades old technology is better than FI, because it really isn't.
Last edited by REELAV8R; May 28, 2021 at 01:13 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,284
Likes: 1,170
From: Hermosa
The thermostat only controls engine temp within it's design range. Once it's full open the engine temp will be dictated by other variables.
If the thermostat never opens Ie sub zero temps then the engine temp will again be controlled by other variables until the temp can rise to a point in which the thermostat will open.
In the winter my F-150 with it's clutch fan will NEVER rise to operating temps in sub zero outside temps. The ONLY way to get that to happen is to block airflow to the radiator.
Hmmm... if it used electric fans then there would be zero airflow at idle not moving and eventually the temp would rise to operating temps.
As it is now it can idle all day and never get to operating temp because the fan is still blowing/sucking air because it's always turning.
If the thermostat never opens Ie sub zero temps then the engine temp will again be controlled by other variables until the temp can rise to a point in which the thermostat will open.
In the winter my F-150 with it's clutch fan will NEVER rise to operating temps in sub zero outside temps. The ONLY way to get that to happen is to block airflow to the radiator.
Hmmm... if it used electric fans then there would be zero airflow at idle not moving and eventually the temp would rise to operating temps.
As it is now it can idle all day and never get to operating temp because the fan is still blowing/sucking air because it's always turning.
Last edited by REELAV8R; May 28, 2021 at 01:10 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,112
From: Crossville TN
The RATED cfm for some of these electric fans is with NO restriction in its path. The radiator IS a big restriction and some of these 'less-than-honest' rated fans just don't have the goods when blowing thru a radiator.
An electric fan blowing an ACTUAL 1000 cfm thru a radiator, and a mechanical fan doing the same, use about the same amount of energy: one absorbing mechanical energy from the crankshaft and the other absorbing electrical energy from a [harder working] alternator, which is absorbing energy from ....guess what?....the crankshaft.
There is no "free lunch" with cooling system fan systems. And one method is just as good as the other...IF they are of similar capacity and the system is sealed and configured similarly..
Also, the thermostat DOES help to regulate engine temperatures UP TO the rated opening temperature of the stat. After that, the engine's temperature achieves thermal equilibrium as a function of cooling system design--a simple balance of "heat IN" vs. "heat OUT". At that point, the thermostat is completely out of the equation.
An electric fan blowing an ACTUAL 1000 cfm thru a radiator, and a mechanical fan doing the same, use about the same amount of energy: one absorbing mechanical energy from the crankshaft and the other absorbing electrical energy from a [harder working] alternator, which is absorbing energy from ....guess what?....the crankshaft.
There is no "free lunch" with cooling system fan systems. And one method is just as good as the other...IF they are of similar capacity and the system is sealed and configured similarly..
Also, the thermostat DOES help to regulate engine temperatures UP TO the rated opening temperature of the stat. After that, the engine's temperature achieves thermal equilibrium as a function of cooling system design--a simple balance of "heat IN" vs. "heat OUT". At that point, the thermostat is completely out of the equation.
Last edited by 7T1vette; May 29, 2021 at 11:00 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,007
Likes: 1,114
From: North tonawanda NY
The RATED cfm for some of these electric fans is with NO restriction in its path. The radiator IS a big restriction and some of these 'less-than-honest' rated fans just don't have the goods when blowing thru a radiator.
An electric fan blowing an ACTUAL 1000 cfm thru a radiator, and a mechanical fan doing the same, use about the same amount of energy: one absorbing mechanical energy from the crankshaft and the other absorbing electrical energy from a [harder working] alternator, which is absorbing energy from ....guess what?....the crankshaft.
There is no "free lunch" with cooling system fan systems. And one method is just as good as the other...IF they are of similar capacity and the system is sealed and configured similarly..
Also, the thermostat DOES help to regulate engine temperatures UP TO the rated opening temperature of the stat. After that, the engine's temperature achieves thermal equilibrium as a function of cooling system design--a simple balance of "heat IN" vs. "heat OUT". At that point, the thermostat is completely out of the equation.
An electric fan blowing an ACTUAL 1000 cfm thru a radiator, and a mechanical fan doing the same, use about the same amount of energy: one absorbing mechanical energy from the crankshaft and the other absorbing electrical energy from a [harder working] alternator, which is absorbing energy from ....guess what?....the crankshaft.
There is no "free lunch" with cooling system fan systems. And one method is just as good as the other...IF they are of similar capacity and the system is sealed and configured similarly..
Also, the thermostat DOES help to regulate engine temperatures UP TO the rated opening temperature of the stat. After that, the engine's temperature achieves thermal equilibrium as a function of cooling system design--a simple balance of "heat IN" vs. "heat OUT". At that point, the thermostat is completely out of the equation.
The electric fan only draws the power when needed (like idle or slow speeds) and can deliver that full fan power at idle.. Not true of mechanical which uses more power and delivers more airflow based on engine rpm on a sliding scale the opposite way from the cooling needs.
While the car is moving the electric fans are typically off and not losing power to drag like the mechanical will/ clutch or no clutch. When the fans do turn on they still only pull the consistent amount of power they used at idle or less due to added airflow.. (This airflow at speed also will help a mechanical fan to a point and doesnt show on dyno tests) Also there's the battery reserve to supplement power needed for the fans as well.. So while there may not be a Free lunch here its certainly eating healthier on a better schedule. Its really like comparing an OD transmission to a 3 speed in some ways.
Last edited by augiedoggy; May 30, 2021 at 09:35 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,284
Likes: 1,170
From: Hermosa
Are you saying that the design of the cooling system is the ONLY variable for cooling?
Not the load on the engine, not temperature of the air passing through the radiator, and not the humidity or density of that air, not the a/c on or off?
I'll agree that the design of the cooling system is the biggest factor, as long as it is adequate for the maximum conditions expected to be encountered and perhaps just a little bit more, in the event that those conditions are exceeded.
Certainly there is no free lunch for cooling, I agree.
My electric fans use 30 amps total when both running. @14 volts that comes out to 420 watts. 420 watts converted to HP is .56 HP. Lets factor in the inefficiency of mechanical HP to electrical power loss of 1 to 3 Still only at 1.5 HP. Multiply it by 10 if you want it would still only be 5.6 HP. And it more than provides adequate air for cooling. Even with a/c on. As a bonus the A/C is actually cool when stopped and idling vs the stock cooling arrangement which could NEVER do that. Nor could it keep the engine in a reasonable heat range stopped with a/c on, on a hot day. I've had both on this car. Direct comparison. replaced fan clutch, flushed radiator, replaced the radiator, scooped more air with air dam extension, re-timed the engine etc, etc, I did everything to get the stock arrangement to work satisfactorily. It did in cruise, and usually in slow cruise if it was not too hot outside, barely, and that was it.
The mechanical fan drew A LOT of HP vs the electric fans. I've had both and experienced both. I'm comparing full lock up on the mechanical fan vs the electric fans. It's a HP level you can feel and hear. At idle , during acceleration, and during slow cruise.
Yes it's work and money to convert. And maybe it's not for everyone. It really depends on your situation, where you live , how you drive it, what time of day you drive it and what time of year. Do you have a/c in the car or not, plenty of factors to consider.
People in Canada and cooler northern and ocean climates probably don't have near the issues that folks in Oklahoma, Alabama, Louisiana, Florida, Texas. Phoenix, etc.etc. hot climates, would have. And spring and fall is probably fine vs the June through September months.
Then there is the question of originality. If you have a nice original 1970 vette , maybe you'd like to keep it that way. I think that is reasonable. Mine happens to be a 1977 non-original vette, so modification is no big deal to me.
Tuning the engine is sooo much better with the electric fans and not having those whirling blades of metal mere inches from you blowing unbearably hot air on you during the process and threatening to sling or cut up anything that may happen to fall into it. That in itself is almost worth the conversion.
Not the load on the engine, not temperature of the air passing through the radiator, and not the humidity or density of that air, not the a/c on or off?
I'll agree that the design of the cooling system is the biggest factor, as long as it is adequate for the maximum conditions expected to be encountered and perhaps just a little bit more, in the event that those conditions are exceeded.
Certainly there is no free lunch for cooling, I agree.
My electric fans use 30 amps total when both running. @14 volts that comes out to 420 watts. 420 watts converted to HP is .56 HP. Lets factor in the inefficiency of mechanical HP to electrical power loss of 1 to 3 Still only at 1.5 HP. Multiply it by 10 if you want it would still only be 5.6 HP. And it more than provides adequate air for cooling. Even with a/c on. As a bonus the A/C is actually cool when stopped and idling vs the stock cooling arrangement which could NEVER do that. Nor could it keep the engine in a reasonable heat range stopped with a/c on, on a hot day. I've had both on this car. Direct comparison. replaced fan clutch, flushed radiator, replaced the radiator, scooped more air with air dam extension, re-timed the engine etc, etc, I did everything to get the stock arrangement to work satisfactorily. It did in cruise, and usually in slow cruise if it was not too hot outside, barely, and that was it.
The mechanical fan drew A LOT of HP vs the electric fans. I've had both and experienced both. I'm comparing full lock up on the mechanical fan vs the electric fans. It's a HP level you can feel and hear. At idle , during acceleration, and during slow cruise.
Yes it's work and money to convert. And maybe it's not for everyone. It really depends on your situation, where you live , how you drive it, what time of day you drive it and what time of year. Do you have a/c in the car or not, plenty of factors to consider.
People in Canada and cooler northern and ocean climates probably don't have near the issues that folks in Oklahoma, Alabama, Louisiana, Florida, Texas. Phoenix, etc.etc. hot climates, would have. And spring and fall is probably fine vs the June through September months.
Then there is the question of originality. If you have a nice original 1970 vette , maybe you'd like to keep it that way. I think that is reasonable. Mine happens to be a 1977 non-original vette, so modification is no big deal to me.
Tuning the engine is sooo much better with the electric fans and not having those whirling blades of metal mere inches from you blowing unbearably hot air on you during the process and threatening to sling or cut up anything that may happen to fall into it. That in itself is almost worth the conversion.
Last edited by REELAV8R; May 30, 2021 at 09:56 AM.
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Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Also, the thermostat DOES help to regulate engine temperatures UP TO the rated opening temperature of the stat. After that, the engine's temperature achieves thermal equilibrium as a function of cooling system design--a simple balance of "heat IN" vs. "heat OUT". At that point, the thermostat is completely out of the equation.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: SW Florida.
The thermostat only controls engine temp within it's design range. Once it's full open the engine temp will be dictated by other variables.
If the thermostat never opens Ie sub zero temps then the engine temp will again be controlled by other variables until the temp can rise to a point in which the thermostat will open.
In the winter my F-150 with it's clutch fan will NEVER rise to operating temps in sub zero outside temps. The ONLY way to get that to happen is to block airflow to the radiator.
Hmmm... if it used electric fans then there would be zero airflow at idle not moving and eventually the temp would rise to operating temps.
As it is now it can idle all day and never get to operating temp because the fan is still blowing/sucking air because it's always turning.
If the thermostat never opens Ie sub zero temps then the engine temp will again be controlled by other variables until the temp can rise to a point in which the thermostat will open.
In the winter my F-150 with it's clutch fan will NEVER rise to operating temps in sub zero outside temps. The ONLY way to get that to happen is to block airflow to the radiator.
Hmmm... if it used electric fans then there would be zero airflow at idle not moving and eventually the temp would rise to operating temps.
As it is now it can idle all day and never get to operating temp because the fan is still blowing/sucking air because it's always turning.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,284
Likes: 1,170
From: Hermosa
Bingo! The heater IS the radiator. Thermostat does not open and won’t due to very cold air. There is still cooling of any heat introduced to the radiator due to forward movement of the vehicle and/or air movement by the clutch fan which IS spinning and drawing air through the radiator.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 6,298
Likes: 416
From: Michigan
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,716
Likes: 121
From: Sulphur LA
St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19,'24, '25