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Recently my engine seized up so I'll be pulling the engine I have removed the hood and will be starting the process of removing the radiator tomorrow was wondering if I could get some advice from engine pulling vets
rad usually doesn't need to come out. remove fan, shroud, alternator, water pump, power steering, AC compressor. do not unhook lines on AC or power steering. exhaust. the exhaust bolt heads burn a little smaller. use a 6-point 14mm socket. plenty of PB or WD40. engine hoist in from the side, not over the nose. that will keep you busy for a day or so. go get a bunch of tupperware-ish containers. zip lock bags. white tape and a good pen for labeling bags of bolts.
Derek nailed it. I just pulled the engine out of my 81 last weekend after throwing a rod. My biggest issue was getting to the bell housing bolts. I ended up removing the transmission crossmember and lowering it down a bit so I could get a long extension onto the bolts.
Those top 2 bellhousing bolts are a B!tch. take lots of pics on your phone so you can reference where that long stud went and how brackets are mounted BEFORE you remove various parts. You can get it out with the exhaust manifolds still on, but if you can get them off, a bit more room when you lift. if your engine has factory lift lugs. great. if not make some up and bolt to intake manifold bolts. opposite corners. get a floor jack underneath trans or bell housing to hold it up.
does this motor turn at all? if not, removing the torque converter from the starter wheel could be problematic. first trip under, remove the starter and the dust cover. then use a jack handle or really big screwdriver as a pry bar to try to move the engine a tooth or two at a time. unbolt any converter bolts you see first. i think only 3 converter bolts. exhaust pipes to manifold are easier to remove before you unbolt manifolds from the engine. those 3 on each side are bolts that like to break.
Last edited by derekderek; Jun 4, 2021 at 05:14 PM.
For the times I’ve pulled the engine, it was just easier to pull both engine and transmission together. Take your time. They will come out easily assembled.
As noted by others, you’ll have to pull the engine from the side. And I found it helpful to remove the front tire. This makes rolling the engine hoist around much easier.
I bought a 1-ton hoist will that be enough for both the engine and tranny? The engine hoist also comes on the 10th so I'll make sure to update when I get it in. @derekderek I was unable to get it to turn over even after pulling the spark plugs, disconnecting the alt, compressor, power steering, and disconnecting the distributor. It's extremely tight I'm unable to even get it to budge.
pull the starter and use a jack handle on starter teeth. you may get it to move far enough to get all the torque converter bolts. if not, the engine has to come forward a good 6 inches to get torque conv out of trans. and then it will dump trans fluid as the engine rocks while pulling it out. so best bet may well be remove engine and trans together. driveshaft. you have to unbolt the straps-caps on front end of shaft to release u-joint from the slip yoke. then you REALLY want the yoke to stay in the trans to not dump mass quantities of trans fluid all over the place. so a bit of coat hanger wire work is called for. take cable off and leave speedo drive gear in trans for the same reason.
Any time I've ever pulled an engine/trans along with labeled bags I've found it useful to take clear pics of everything from various angles first and as you go in case there's any question as to how things are supposed to go. Better to take more pics than you need than not enough.
I have spent today flushing the radiator because It looks like it needs removed for me to remove the shroud. I got most of the top half pulled apart and organized into labeled bags. I've also taken before pictures of how it goes back together. I think Ill be replacing a lot of the rubber tubes as they are extremely dried out and a lot of them cracked just from me gently pulling them off. There was also a calcium build-up or something in the therm housing. Ive got the carb pulled off as well and I think If the engine is fine Ill replace it with a holley
Last edited by Massive Legend Here; Jun 6, 2021 at 07:20 PM.
I did pull the rad and the rad support and then I was shocked to find how much room I had that way.
But yours may have an ac condensor up there so...
My rad had to come out first for me to be able to get the fan shroud out..
I used a 2 ton hoist with the arm all the way out, which knocked it back to 1 ton IIRC.
I needed the long arm to get over the wide fender from the side.
Also pulled a wheel off and lowered the car as far as I could and still get the left leg under it.
The nose is just too long to do it from the front.
Use an engine leveler and it is easier to tilt it to where you want it.
Pulled my BB with no trans.
If you can not rotate the engine to get the trans off, it does come out as a unit.
But you will need more tilt, boom height and room to swing it all forward.
I almost ran out of ceiling room in my 9'3" home garage.
Not sure I could have done the engine/trans combo in that garage..
PS: Keep the Q-jet. They are better than a Holley for a street car. Send it to an expert like Lars if it needs attention..
Last edited by leigh1322; Jun 6, 2021 at 10:25 PM.
@leigh1322 I'm just wondering if it or the fuel pump isn't working right because after it seized I pulled the plugs and about half were showing lean and the other half of the plugs were either fuel fouled or oil fouled. That and I want to track the car so I'm looking to get the most power I can from it even if I suffer on mpg
Last edited by Massive Legend Here; Jun 7, 2021 at 12:46 AM.
@leigh1322 I'm just wondering if it or the fuel pump isn't working right because after it seized I pulled the plugs and about half were showing lean and the other half of the plugs were either fuel fouled or oil fouled. That and I want to track the car so I'm looking to get the most power I can from it even if I suffer on mpg
If you want to track the car, and/or get a very aggressive cam, a Holley is much easier to tune and re-jet for those non-stock applications.
When the idle vacuum starts to drop with bigger cams it becomes progressively more difficult to tune a Q-Jet correctly, unless you are an expert, and have a boatload of rare parts.
If the Q-jet runs well, offer it up for sale here, someone would love to have it.
When you go Holley you need a square Holley intake. And an air gap high rise if you want the best performance, which means it will probably not fit under the hood, so then you get into new hoods.
A stock LT-1 intake, or similar mid-rise intake, non air gap, is about all that will fit under the stock hood.
Ok, it's been near a month because I got slogged with work but I'm back to working on getting this engine pulled. I got the 2-ton engine puller put together and in place however, I noticed that I need to go get bolts to connect to the intake no sure what size or length I should go with on those. Ill also begin disconnecting everything to pull the engine. I have the puller set to 1 ton and I've been told to take the transmission out along with the engine but I'm not sure if a ton is enough can anyone confirm that.
Ok, it's been near a month because I got slogged with work but I'm back to working on getting this engine pulled. I got the 2-ton engine puller put together and in place however, I noticed that I need to go get bolts to connect to the intake no sure what size or length I should go with on those. Ill also begin disconnecting everything to pull the engine. I have the puller set to 1 ton and I've been told to take the transmission out along with the engine but I'm not sure if a ton is enough can anyone confirm that.
i'm pretty sure 1 ton will be fine..
glad your back! a few comments
you have a VERY original nice car and L82 engine..with a lot of accessories... take MANY pictures as mentioned..and a few thoughts
- others can advise on where to pull.. i have seen carb plates too....
- i would document very well and remove parts like carb, cruise control (kinda rare and complex), and other 'stuff' in the way.
- i find a video 360 view moving in an out also is a great reference to stop frames as need
- stuff you may find completely useless like air pump, brackets, air pipes, manifolds etc...you can save or sell ...but please don't toss
- label well even bolts and where they go..lengths vary..
- when engine out..think about the AC and other parts of car...they are really NOT that $ for parts..
engine out and car will sit so trying to get it running and back in would be priority maybe..
edit.. are not those round hooks for installing the engine already?? use the same?
good luck!
Last edited by interpon; Jun 29, 2021 at 08:16 AM.
79 engine pulling
