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Get a hoist with four casters, pull the one front tire so you can slide the hoist sideways. The nose is too long to pick from the front. Get one of those harbor freight load levelers, but replace the handle before you start. With the trans attached, lift and tilt. Make sure and have help so you don’t swing it into your paint. I used a 2 ton hoist with the boom fully extended. I used a floor jack to help the transmission along. If it’s an auto you can get the trans line by tilting back the trans a few inches.
I bag and label everything so I’m not hunting bolts putting it back together. Sandwich bags are great for bolts.
Ok, it's been near a month because I got slogged with work but I'm back to working on getting this engine pulled. I got the 2-ton engine puller put together and in place however, I noticed that I need to go get bolts to connect to the intake no sure what size or length I should go with on those. Ill also begin disconnecting everything to pull the engine. I have the puller set to 1 ton and I've been told to take the transmission out along with the engine but I'm not sure if a ton is enough can anyone confirm that.
Get a carb pad engine lift plate:
BTW.....the top two trans bolts are very easy to get to from the top.....remove the distributor for extra working space. Use a 9/16 Gearwrench.
Get a couple of magnetic tool bowls from Pearl Harbor Freight......put all of your bolts in them.....get three if you like to separate different parts of the engine.
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Jun 29, 2021 at 10:09 AM.
I'll go take a ton of pictures here in a bit but I have removed the dis, carb, alternator, starter, compressor, I've also drained the radiator because I cant get the shroud out with it in. I didn't have to take the starter out but I checked to make sure the solenoid was working by connecting it to a battery.
Ok, I got a bunch of pictures of what I'm working with. I have a jegs 2-ton loader however the chains it came with are too short to reach the intake plate I also don't have bolts that will connect the plate to the intake because two of the carb bolts are too long. Is there a bolt size and strength I should look for when I go and get some? Lastly, I got a set of 4 salad shooters for a really good deal and I want to run them on the vett in the future but they are too wide at 9.5 so is there a way for me to run them without using spacers. Since ill be tracking it in the future I'm not comfortable in the safety of using spacers
I'm having trouble with this metal line on the radiator the bolt is completely stuck and it is stripped any ideas on how to get this disconnected?
Cut it with a hacksaw......
It will be easier to remove from the rad when the rad is out......you have to replace the line anyway. A pair of vice grips will walk that right out.....
I removed the entire radiator support and radiator, put chains on 4 corners of the heads, and pulled the engine and tranny together with no issue. Make sure you disconnect your ground strap!
Don't forget to disconnect & remove the driveshaft. Leave the yoke in the trans or get one of those plastic trans plugs Tie/tape it in. Saves trans oil going everywhere.
I'm certainly in the minority here, but here my opinion anyhow. A basis of my opinion is that the engine/bellhousing/transmission stack is held into the car by four bolts...two at the front motor mounts and two at the end of the trensmission. I prefer to remove the entire stack using an engine hoist and a load leveler. Everything else to remove is a tedious list of hoses, wiring, throttle linkage, and so on. I think for my BB, I removed the radiator, I think a SB clears it. I've done three engine outs in ins, but I sort of forget. This technique, makes it so easy to mate the engine back up with the tranny......you don't have to work under the car for this. You are lucky you have a removeable crossmember.
Once everything is hanging on the hoist you will have to pull the hoist straight back. When you do that, the hoist will roll off the pavement the way it looks in the pic. What is going to happen when those wheels hit the soft dirt surface? You might try laying down some plywood.
@BKbroiler I have thought about that being a problem as well I have a thin driveway and I don't really have a way around that. Unfortunately, the weather has been terrible where I live with nonstop raining so I haven't been able to proceed past hacksawing the transmission lines and getting the radiator out. I could use my parent's garage which is wide enough and tall enough but the car would need to be towed out there.
Last edited by Massive Legend Here; Jul 12, 2021 at 06:27 PM.
i take the upright from your basic engine stand and slide and bolt it into the long arm of the cherry picker. you can add quite a bit of length that way. then take off the hood and pull the engine from straight in front of the car and roll the car back when engine is up in the air. you have to chain the pivot area of the hoist down to something heavy. i have used boat trailers, engine blocks, riding mower. because the hoist will be over balanced and the back wheels will lift. i can get engines in boats with this setup. the vette should be easy.
