Best points disto conversion kit?
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2019
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[QUOTE=Eric P;1603638032]
Maybe other people work on cars too. I don't agree with your electromagnetic theory. Current flow...yes, But there is no magnetism, and I challenge you to prove it in writing, and not just your say so.
Frankly, I've never heard of that, and I work for an automotive parts manufacturer. We do all types of testing. Where do you get your info?[/QUO
You never hear of elctromagnetism or what ? I get my info because I work on cars for a living for 42 years and we take it seriously . Current causes points to stick and burn real bad if the Condensor goes open verses shorted . The key on and points shut/closed flows current causing the contact set to become a electromagnet, key off they don't , try moving the points open from a closed position with a pocket screw driver and key on and then try it key off , it doesn't take a rocket scientist to feel the fairly big difference .... That's also why installing the wrong resistance coil can burn up points too
You never hear of elctromagnetism or what ? I get my info because I work on cars for a living for 42 years and we take it seriously . Current causes points to stick and burn real bad if the Condensor goes open verses shorted . The key on and points shut/closed flows current causing the contact set to become a electromagnet, key off they don't , try moving the points open from a closed position with a pocket screw driver and key on and then try it key off , it doesn't take a rocket scientist to feel the fairly big difference .... That's also why installing the wrong resistance coil can burn up points too
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2019
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[QUOTE=Mrvettenick;1603638054]easier yet just go try it on your own car , it really works ! If current flows it for sure becomes a elctromagnet
Drifting
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Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
I used to muck with dizzies to get the initial, total mechanical and all RPM. With stops, spring, and weight kits. You want about 18 -22 initial and a total of maybe 34 without vacuum advance. I'm not a fan of early all in and believe that keeping total advance to all in the 3000 - 3200 rpm keeps the cylinder pressure down saving the rod bearings. Depending on the Dynamic Compression Ratio I also think that it is best to have an an adjustable vacuum advance can. Then kinda limit it to sub 12 additional.
So along came the digital age. Like MSD e-tech. You set everything with switch dials. I can can all kinds of things is just minutes.
Why muck with old garbage?
So along came the digital age. Like MSD e-tech. You set everything with switch dials. I can can all kinds of things is just minutes.
Why muck with old garbage?
Drifting
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[QUOTE=Mrvettenick;1603638159]I'm sure you've seen points were there,s a big divit stuck on one contact and a big pit that matches the divit from the other contact on a set of points ?? surely you have seen this ... this is straight up elctromagnetism caused the contact with a Pit to stick to the other contact with the divit , when under current they do not like to let go , this is third grade science class where everybody holds hands while the teacher elcetracutes us as a unti until someone finally lets go , your hands grip tighter , you will never see that with points triggering a MSD ( that is a divit and a pit in the point set )
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2019
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
[QUOTE=Mrvettenick;1603638159]
Not to butt in, but it is widely known that current flow in a wire generates a magnetic field. It is used in tons of industrial applications. Here is a link for reference: https://courses.lumenlearning.com/bo...gnetic-fields/
To that point though, I believe the deterioration of the points is caused by arcing as they open and close. A little bit of material is eroded away every time they arc.
To that point though, I believe the deterioration of the points is caused by arcing as they open and close. A little bit of material is eroded away every time they arc.
Last edited by Lamouree351; Jun 24, 2021 at 01:27 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2019
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[QUOTE=Eric P;1603638221]
I'm sure you've seen points were there,s a big divit stuck on one contact and a big pit that matches the divit from the other contact on a set of points ?? surely you have seen this ... this is straight up elctromagnetism caused the contact with a Pit to stick to the other contact with the divit , when under current they do not like to let go , this is third grade science class where everybody holds hands while the teacher elcetracutes us as a unti until someone finally lets go , your hands grip tighter , you will never see that with points triggering a MSD ( that is a divit and a pit in the point set )
The material transfer is from current flow and arcing when the points open. It has nothing to do with magnetism and rubbing block wear. Not sure what school you went to, but it sounds like you need a do over.
I'm sure you've seen points were there,s a big divit stuck on one contact and a big pit that matches the divit from the other contact on a set of points ?? surely you have seen this ... this is straight up elctromagnetism caused the contact with a Pit to stick to the other contact with the divit , when under current they do not like to let go , this is third grade science class where everybody holds hands while the teacher elcetracutes us as a unti until someone finally lets go , your hands grip tighter , you will never see that with points triggering a MSD ( that is a divit and a pit in the point set )
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 1,338
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[QUOTE=Lamouree351;1603638233]
Not to butt in, but it is widely known that current flow in a wire generates a magnetic field. It is used in tons of industrial applications. Here is a link for reference: https://courses.lumenlearning.com/bo...gnetic-fields/
You're talking about high current flow through large wires.That's not the case here, And how does that relate to rubbing block wear?
Not to butt in, but it is widely known that current flow in a wire generates a magnetic field. It is used in tons of industrial applications. Here is a link for reference: https://courses.lumenlearning.com/bo...gnetic-fields/
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2019
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From: North Port, FL
[QUOTE=Mrvettenick;1603638266]
I think I get what your saying with rubbing block wear on the points where with an MSD or any of the conversion kits the disto its triggered electronically.
I think I'd rather do that and just get rid of the points, and still use my original disto.
It looks like Petronics is the fav, so I'll go with that.
Thanks all
I think I'd rather do that and just get rid of the points, and still use my original disto.
It looks like Petronics is the fav, so I'll go with that.
Thanks all
Last edited by 0311 jarhead; Jun 24, 2021 at 02:09 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 1,338
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[QUOTE=0311 jarhead;1603638478]
I think I get what your saying with rubbing block wear on the points where with an MSD or any of the conversion kits the disto its triggered electronically.
I think I'd rather do that and just get rid of the points, and still use my original disto.
It looks like Petronics is the fav, so I'll go with that.
Thanks all
Good choice. Really, if using MSD, all you'll need is the basic Pertronix, not the 2 or 3 version.
I think I get what your saying with rubbing block wear on the points where with an MSD or any of the conversion kits the disto its triggered electronically.
I think I'd rather do that and just get rid of the points, and still use my original disto.
It looks like Petronics is the fav, so I'll go with that.
Thanks all
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 10,707
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From: Golden Colorado
Not to hijack a thread, but a tech question if allowed. Car is 1966 BB and currently has HEI. Looking to go back to oem distributer to regain tach function. I have a Petronix 1181 which I believe is an earlier one. I have read lots of reviews on these for high failure rate from magnets coming loose. I am inclined to go with points and a hotter coil.
Question #1 Has anyone had magnets come loose?
Question #2 If I go with points, what should the primary resistance on the coil be?
thanks in advance.
Question #1 Has anyone had magnets come loose?
Question #2 If I go with points, what should the primary resistance on the coil be?
thanks in advance.
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 84
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Not to hijack a thread, but a tech question if allowed. Car is 1966 BB and currently has HEI. Looking to go back to oem distributer to regain tach function. I have a Petronix 1181 which I believe is an earlier one. I have read lots of reviews on these for high failure rate from magnets coming loose. I am inclined to go with points and a hotter coil.
Question #1 Has anyone had magnets come loose?
Question #2 If I go with points, what should the primary resistance on the coil be?
thanks in advance.
Question #1 Has anyone had magnets come loose?
Question #2 If I go with points, what should the primary resistance on the coil be?
thanks in advance.
Last edited by Lamouree351; Jul 23, 2021 at 02:38 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 1,338
Likes: 225
Not to hijack a thread, but a tech question if allowed. Car is 1966 BB and currently has HEI. Looking to go back to oem distributer to regain tach function. I have a Petronix 1181 which I believe is an earlier one. I have read lots of reviews on these for high failure rate from magnets coming loose. I am inclined to go with points and a hotter coil.
Question #1 Has anyone had magnets come loose?
Question #2 If I go with points, what should the primary resistance on the coil be?
thanks in advance.
Question #1 Has anyone had magnets come loose?
Question #2 If I go with points, what should the primary resistance on the coil be?
thanks in advance.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 10,707
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From: Golden Colorado
thx again
Last edited by Vette5311; Jul 23, 2021 at 02:31 PM.
Drifting
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I would say shoot for about 2.5 ohms total. If you go lower, and I wouldn't go lower than say 2 ohms, just remember your points won't last as long. So if you put like 500 miles/year, I wouldn't get too concerned.
Race Director
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From: Golden Colorado
I guess I’m confused. I looked both coils specs up and MSD blaster2 says primary resistance .700 and secondary resistance 4.70. Jacobs energy coil says primary .600 and secondary 8.5. MSD is sold with a resistor and says for stock points so I’m leaning that way.
thx again
thx again
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2019
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I guess I’m confused. I looked both coils specs up and MSD blaster2 says primary resistance .700 and secondary resistance 4.70. Jacobs energy coil says primary .600 and secondary 8.5. MSD is sold with a resistor and says for stock points so I’m leaning that way.
thx again
thx again
4th Gear
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Chicago Illinois
Here’s what I have:
https://www.davessmallbodyheis.com
Dave knows his stuff and the finished product is an absolute work of art.
Drifting
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I have a Pertronix in my '72. It's been bulletproof. You'll probably get other opinions. Either way, you need to be aware of your primary resistance. Do your research to see what it takes to install, and what the cost may be. The Pertronix makes it possible to leave the distributor in the car, especially if you don't exceed like .100" end play. The other benefit is you don't have to be too concerned with distributor shaft side play, because it's pretty forgiving.
Tech Contributor
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From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
I know they uped the coil voltage to 12 for starting and used a resister to bring it down to 9 for running. The car has a resister block which I was going to wire in. I have 2 coils a Jacobs Energy coil and an MSD blaster 2 but both have less than 1.5 ohms primary. Is this how they get the hotter spark? Would it be detrimental to points or condenser to have lower coil resistance and would this be even lower with resister block?
thx again
thx again
Unless you know what the inductance of your current coil is, and compare it to the inductance of your optional coils, you're just flipping a three sided coin to determine which coil to use.
The nine volts is BS too. The coil gets 12v put across it at the start of every dwell period. As the dwell current ramps up, the voltage drop across the ballast resistor increases, causing a sloping reduction in the actual voltage across the coil.