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I am partial to the Pertronix as it is just a magnetic trigger......it needs no voltage to work, spin it and it creates a mV signal just like an MSD. The others rely on an optical eye that requires voltage to it to light the eye.....not as reliable from experience.
FYI.....most all Mallory distributors had Optical eyes......and most all numb nut know it all backyard guys installed these with no ballast resistor when not using a box. Our Speedshop showroom would get one of these back a week, with the numb nut screaming "junk this" and "I can't believe" and "You sold me...!" til I open the instructions and showed them the part where it says ballast resistor required for stand alone usage.....then they would go "Well, you didn't tell me.....and I can't believe you..." The eye by itself was 90$ 15 years ago........fun times.
So glad I got out of this business. Never looked back either.
I have been using the Pertronix Ignitor III for 2 years on my small block and it has worked with issue.
yep, installed my pertronix III probably 5'ish years ago now. no issues. I did run a new copper wire from the junction block on the firewall and replaced the resistance wire using a type 56 locking blade terminal.
I have 2 with the lectric limited kit, and 2 cars with petronix.
easy of install goes to lectric limited. I installed my second one in probably 30 min. with petronix you have to give it a full 12V, so had to run a new wire. otherwise I think both kits perform the same.
one of the petronix kits has been installed for probably 20+ years in a 67 GTO.
I put in the Mallory in my dad's years ago. Still working like a champ. My parents are restoring my grandfathers Buick. so I am dropping in the Petronix in it
All are good answers above , something not mentioned and my shop has done a few times is a Street Fire or 6AL MSD box and use your points to trigger the box , it takes the amperage out of the points that would normally recharge the Coil and the MSD uses the points as a on-off switch with no current running through it so points don't burn up any more , the last one we did we hid the box inside on a 71 Torino 429 CJ ( with Quadrajet factory stock, lol ) and works great
Only problem with points, the rubbing block wear, and it's slow mechanically. Hey go with what makes you happy.
Most of the rubbing block wear is from the amp draw from recharge the coil , the points becomes a electromagnet when recharging so it takes more force to open the points , when it's just a on-off switch with no amperage the points open and close easily and last a long time with a MSD system
Most of the rubbing block wear is from the amp draw from recharge the coil , the points becomes a electromagnet when recharging so it takes more force to open the points , when it's just a on-off switch with no amperage the points open and close easily and last a long time with a MSD system
Rubbing block wear is based on spring tension. So, if you have a high RPM set, they will wear faster.
All are good answers above , something not mentioned and my shop has done a few times is a Street Fire or 6AL MSD box and use your points to trigger the box , it takes the amperage out of the points that would normally recharge the Coil and the MSD uses the points as a on-off switch with no current running through it so points don't burn up any more , the last one we did we hid the box inside on a 71 Torino 429 CJ ( with Quadrajet factory stock, lol ) and works great
I have a dual point disto. Do I need to convert to single points to run a 6al box, ?
I have a dual point disto. Do I need to convert to single points to run a 6al box, ?
Dual points are not needed with a MSD , dual points were created to give the coil a few more degrees of charge time to the coil without reducing the gap to nothing like if it were a single point system trying to get 34-36 degrees of dwell time instead of 30 degrees . I would take out a set myself
[QUOTE=Mrvettenick;1603637909]Frankly, I've never heard of that, and I work for an automotive parts manufacturer. We do all types of testing. Where do you get your info?[/QUO
You never hear of elctromagnetism or what ? I get my info because I work on cars for a living for 42 years and we take it seriously . Current causes points to stick and burn real bad if the Condensor goes open verses shorted . The key on and points shut/closed flows current causing the contact set to become a electromagnet, key off they don't , try moving the points open from a closed position with a pocket screw driver and key on and then try it key off , it doesn't take a rocket scientist to feel the fairly big difference .... That's also why installing the wrong resistance coil can burn up points too