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Bleed screw leaking fluid while the bleed screw is open is irrelevant - as long as it seals when the bleed screw is closed !!! The seal when closed thing is the only thing you care about !!!
And while I use the Motive Products Master Cylinder Adapters - I just use a small 5 gal air tank - pressurized to around 15 psi connected to the adapter to put an atmosphere of pressure above the brake fluid. It pushes through the fluid through the lines so easily.... It almost makes a brake fluid flush enjoyable - Almost...
I suspect that you are not opening the bleeder screw far enough. You need to open it at least 1/4 turn (but no more than 1/2 turn, or it will be more difficult to easily shut off). If you just 'crack' it open, you might get a little to ooze out the threads, but not much out the bleeder.
OK... Making progress. Looks like the leak is coming from threads of the bleeder. So fluid is leaking past the bleeder and not going through the bleeder? These are brand new bleeders. I also put one of the old bleeders in and the same thing happened. Suggestions?
Like you said, progress is progress! <thumbs up>
I don't know if there's a downside, but I gave my bleeder screws a couple wraps of teflon tape. Two reasons: didn't want to be guessing if the bubbles when bleeding was air entering around the threads and they won't get rusted/seized into the caliper.
Get the car if possible up on 4 jack stands. Bleed in the order of : RR (inner the outer bleed), LR (inner then outer bleed), RF, LF
I have gone the route of the peddle pumping, the vacuum pump on the bleeders and while ok, a power bleeder is superior. Go get a Motive power bleeder from one of the parts houses. Give the best bleed and quick. Total time, what your pace will allow.
Yup. The one-way check valve works on the same principle as the vacuum pump. Only instead of sucking air in through the threads, it lets fluid out through the threads. You may still get some of that with a pressurized system (like the Motive, or whatever else works better, like a home-brew clear MC cover). I put a tiny dab of Loctite on my threads to help seal them. If you buy bleeders, you may find this already applied. Teflon tape or paste may also work. Just don't get any on the conical sealing surface!
The best way to make sure you don't save any money or time doing your brakes, is to do the wrong way first. In this case, spending money to do it several different wrong ways. Next, waste someone's morning doing it with the two-person pedal method.
Before I knew better, I spent many hours on the vacuum method and the two-person pedal method. I ended up with nothing but a mess. The Motive, or a similar pressure bleeder system, works much better, faster, cheaper, and helps you preserve your relationships.
Update... Making more progress. See picture below. The new bleeders I purchased (on the right in the picture) had more of a point on the bottom. The bleeders I took out were more flat. When the new (pointy) bleeders were in, they would leak, in fact, my son watched fluid suck back into the caliper. When I took them out and put the originals back in, problem solved.
Since it's Sunday and I can really order a power bleeder, we tried the two person pedal method and actually think we are having success. The rear brakes are now done. We are tilting the front of the car up and will do the front calipers next...
I can see light... Is it the end of the tunnel, or a train?
Looks to me like the newer one doesn't have as long a shaft between the thread and the point. I'm thinking the thread bottoms out before the cone fully seats. A hack photoshop job
Looks to me like the newer one doesn't have as long a shaft between the thread and the point. I'm thinking the thread bottoms out before the cone fully seats. A hack photoshop job
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
