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With my carbureted motor I had to tune the advance curve from the settings that came with my controller. Guessing your motor comes with the knock sensors integrated into the ECM, mine didn't. Did you have to do anything to make your motor happy with the 91 gas in our state? Or were you plug and play out of the box?
Myself I backed off a bit from on the advance curve. There was a lot of discussion over on the LS carbureted forum at one time on what to set that too. I'm sure I sacrificed some performance.
Also, as your car is a 78, you have to meet smog in CA. Unless I missed it I didn't see any mention.
I'm glad you had great success with your LS swap.
One of the coolest things about a properly wired, plumbed and programmed LS swap is how fast it will fire when you turn the key for the first time. It's kind of scary if you haven't done one before.
It sure was. I decided to first crank with the ignition off. Took forever to see any pressure. Now it's instantaneous when I turn the key. And the oil pressure is right there too. I am baffled as to how well that works given the really long oil pickup tube.
It sure was. I decided to first crank with the ignition off. Took forever to see any pressure. Now it's instantaneous when I turn the key. And the oil pressure is right there too. I am baffled as to how well that works given the really long oil pickup tube.
I primed the motor using the port on the front driver side port since cranking didn't produce any PSI.
With my carbureted motor I had to tune the advance curve from the settings that came with my controller. Guessing your motor comes with the knock sensors integrated into the ECM, mine didn't. Did you have to do anything to make your motor happy with the 91 gas in our state? Or were you plug and play out of the box?
Myself I backed off a bit from on the advance curve. There was a lot of discussion over on the LS carbureted forum at one time on what to set that too. I'm sure I sacrificed some performance.
Also, as your car is a 78, you have to meet smog in CA. Unless I missed it I didn't see any mention.
Factory GM controller nothing changed to tuning etc, just worked as a complete kit. That is the main reason for selecting the GM Harness / Controller for the GM Crate motor. Not in CA but Canada no smog worries here.
Factory GM controller nothing changed to tuning etc, just worked as a complete kit. That is the main reason for selecting the GM Harness / Controller for the GM Crate motor. Not in CA but Canada no smog worries here.
Damn, I made that CA mistake before, didn't I? Slow learner am I.
I did prime my motor with an Accusump, so I wasn't too worried about it being dry after sitting around for a year.
Here in MN we only have 91 octane. When I do a LS swap I have the tuner mod the ECM tune for 91 octane. I think they adjust timing curve and the amount of timing.
Here in MN we only have 91 octane. When I do a LS swap I have the tuner mod the ECM tune for 91 octane. I think they adjust timing curve and the amount of timing.
Most of the BP stations and some Shell stations in/around the Twin Cities have 93.
Yeah I'm 150 miles west of the twin cities. The other thing we have run into when we have done the Power Tour is the local gas stations on the route run out of premium and you stuck with 87-89 octane gas. Never really had a problem. If the 91 octane tune costs me 10 hp I'm good with that.
It looks like you kept the stock heater/AC box to mount the ECU, vs deleting AC or using a vintage air setup. Is that correct, and did it cause any clearance issues?
It looks like you kept the stock heater/AC box to mount the ECU, vs deleting AC or using a vintage air setup. Is that correct, and did it cause any clearance issues?
The ECU is mounted using the factory hood open / close sensor and the Heater blower relay mounts. Sits above the Heater box. I have not installed a AC pump yet, due to finding a braket that will factory mount to the LS3 and still provide
clearance from the Control Arms. LS3 in my 78 issues was more with the accessory drive setup. Comes with 3 options and is based on dampner depth. I have the corvette / cadilac spacing which pushes the accessory drive items to
the side, which limits options. I used a small PS pulley to clear the control arm. I worked due to me using SPC Upper arms. This also didn't require the heater hose locations to be modified as most.
The ECU is mounted using the factory hood open / close sensor and the Heater blower relay mounts. Sits above the Heater box. I have not installed a AC pump yet, due to finding a braket that will factory mount to the LS3 and still provide
clearance from the Control Arms. LS3 in my 78 issues was more with the accessory drive setup. Comes with 3 options and is based on dampner depth. I have the corvette / cadilac spacing which pushes the accessory drive items to
the side, which limits options. I used a small PS pulley to clear the control arm. I worked due to me using SPC Upper arms. This also didn't require the heater hose locations to be modified as most.
Thanks for the clarification! That is really following your 100% reversible mod plan.
I have SPC arms in my 80. I'll do the same for my wife's 79 (which is, of course, is likely to be the first of the two cars to get an LS swap...). I may go with an electric power steering pump. We'll see.
Most factory pumps are ~ 2.0+ GPH for corvette factory PS units. Because of the hose movement side to side (factory) to many leak problems during track days. Worked great with the LS Swap.