When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
One of the things on my list for this year is to replace the vacuum modulator on my turbo 400 trans.
Not having any problems, have the original one on there, car is a 75 with upper end mods with t/b 400 and an B/M shift kit for the last 45 years.
At 74 i will not be doing this, looking for info & tips ?
Last edited by Mod75; Jul 16, 2021 at 11:41 PM.
Reason: I cant spell
Install an adjustable modulator...or save your $100 Labor cash for a needier repair.
You'll be able to fine-tune the shift points with an adjustable modulator.
Ya I'd leave it be. I get wanting to preempt a failure. Problem I have with folks doing work on my car is trusting them to do it right and not break anything else in the process. Unless you know someone specifically, competence is low these days for old vehicles in the auto repair business. No OBDII port to plug into
You could buy one and have it on hand in the event that it does fail. That at least would get you half way there if it should fail.
Last edited by REELAV8R; Jul 17, 2021 at 12:06 PM.
I would replace it with a new OEM part.
I had an 89 Chevy 3500 1 ton dually and drove it for many years.
I was driving home from work one night and noticed when I came to a stop there was a ton of blueish white smoke coming out the exhaust.
I thought it was a head gasket and drove it straight to Chevy who diagnosed it as a head gasket as well.
The next day and $900.00 later the same thing happened.
When I backed into my driveway the transmission was slipping so badly it would not back into my garage.
I did some research and found it was possibly the transmission vacuum modulator.
When they go bad the engine vacuum will suck all the fluid from the transmission into the intake and burn it in the cylinders.
From the time I noticed it smoking I only drove it about 50 miles and that was enough to destroy the TH 400.
At the time the modulator was about $3.95 and I changed it in about 30 minutes.
But the $900.00 head gasket swap and $2,000.00 transmission swap was costly.
It is a simple replacement. One bolt to release the clamp, remove vacuum hose and slide out old one and slide in new one. The old ones after a long time start to leak oil. If the diaphragm goes out it can pull transmission fluid into intake and you will wonder where it all went. The last one I bought was only around $15. Don't overcomplicate a simple task.
Leave it alone. It is an original part and one that was made WELL (the reason it still lives). Today's aftermarket stuff is cr@p compared to original OEM parts. Wait until you have problems before you toss out the original modulator.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Originally Posted by RU7376vettes
It is a simple replacement. One bolt to release the clamp, remove vacuum hose and slide out old one and slide in new one. The old ones after a long time start to leak oil. If the diaphragm goes out it can pull transmission fluid into intake and you will wonder where it all went. The last one I bought was only around $15. Don't overcomplicate a simple task.
So the consensus is to leave it alone, no problems with it so far, one owner 75 with 45k on it.
Having just turned 74 i don't need to go looking for something to do, so its leave it alone.
Another potential "gotcha" is that sometimes the modulator valve sticks in the vacuum modulator as you remove it, gets dropped and then is installed either dirty or backwards, or both. I've seen it happen. I have to agree with the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"
Are you able to pop off the modulator without draining the oil? There is a decent leak at my modulator and I drained the oil before pulling it out. It is hard to tell where the leak is coming from, but since I see oil at the seam, I am worried the modulator may be bad and not just the O-ring. I was considering replacing the modulator, but I do not want to mess with adjusting a new one. My vette shifts nice. Is there a way to adjust it to match the old unit before installing it?
Static fluid level is above the modulator center line, so oil will leak out if you don't drain any oil from the pan first. A leak at the modulator is most likely due to the O-ring seal getting old, hard, and shrunk from original size over years of service.