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Hello,
I completely rebuilt this winter my rear end.
I still have a problem with my rear brakes.
When I drive a few miles, one side becomes abnormally hot.
I've the feeling that comes from the parking brake system. I've tried a lot to adjust this damn thing, but the problem persists... I wonder why is it only one side ?
The rotors and pads are EBC new, calipers from Lonestar Caliper new, Brake shoes are original Delco in good shape, hardware is new repro stainless.
Thank you for your help, I don't know what to do more for now :-(
Lift wheels and see if they spin easy..they should be as easy as the fronts (- posi)..just touching pads..
back off adjuster if needed.
how are you measuring heat? And where?
Last edited by interpon; Jul 17, 2021 at 04:19 PM.
Thanks !
I didn't measure for now temperature. But it seems really not normal to have such heat after maybe 5 miles...And the other side have almost no heat.
I feel heat by hand on "drum" on rotor.
Of course, the rotor are also quite hot and caliper also, but far less than rotor itself.
The spindel is also hot, but not as much as the rotor.
new rotors and parking brake kits are not the quality they once were. I have to fit both and some rotor hat ID are smaller then original, the star wheels in the kit don't alway allow the shoes to compress enough and cause a drag, You may hear a ticking sound and you may not but I would check it by closing the shoes all the way and see if there is any drag, best to do this with the 1/2 shaft disconnected. I have had to rebore some new rotors both stock and slotted/drilled ones.
Thank you for your answer.
The strange thing is I don't have the impression that the shoes work fine : when I turn the star wheel, I can block the rotor. And I don't have the feeling that the shoes "brake" the rotor when I return back the star wheel...
Maybe I must test with my old rotors (which are still in good shape). Before the rebuild, my parking brake worked quite good...
And I must compare old and new ID with big measure caliper.
I never use new SS parking brake hardware without fitting the parts. I always machine the star wheels shorter, file the hold down pins to arrowheads, radius the levers, fit the shoes to the start wheels. For the last 15+ years I automatically do it since the parts are the way they are. Once done they're fine. The deal with the rotor hat ID just started a couple of years ago. I use NAPA rotors and transfer the bolt pattern so I can bolt on the rotors and dial them in. This is one of the things I cover when I hold tech seminars.
If a caliper drags, there is a slightly possibility that the rubber hose is defective internally. The hose will allow some brake fluid movement in one direction, but little return movement in the release direction.
What's the age of the rubber lines?
The rubber lines (made in USA) are new ! I was aware about this possible problem.
Very interesting post about SS brake material, thank you.
Could you explain me what you have modifed o these parts ?
I hesitated to re-use my old hardware (appart broken springs...) because I know the fit (and often quality) problems with repro parts.
The big mess is that I must take off the spindels to do that properly...
I'll compare both rotors and eventually re-machine the new one if necessary.
Last edited by chris383; Jul 18, 2021 at 03:52 AM.
Do not remove the axles unless you plan on replacing the bearngs. You can do the parking on the car with the axle in place but it sucks. Needle nose pliers work well. The bearings are press fit on the axles- or should be. Driving them out will wreck the seals and I wouldn't reuse axle bearings after that. It can be a day of slow work or more rebuilding the arms. Of course if the arm are original that's another story.
Yes, I know the hard work to remove the spindle and the need of new external bearings and seals..
But it seem also VERY hard to re-assemble the parking brake hardware with the spindle in place...maybe with the good needle plier it'll be easier ?
The next step to me is to compare and eventually re-machine the new rotors with old dimensions.
I'll take the brake hardware later...if necessary
Do you see something wrong on my mounting :
Thank you again for your help :-)
Last edited by chris383; Jul 18, 2021 at 04:03 PM.
Can you measure the width across the pads and see how that compares to the ID of the rotor hat? Just to see if it is even the the ballpark? I know you were going to when you modified the hat, but just wondered.
The upper picture is the LH arm, the star wheel should be pointing to the rear. The RH points to the front as you have it. The anchor locks should not be bent over on the large ears, they act as guides for the shoes. The small tabs bend over to lock the bolt head as you did.
Also make sure the d-flat in the legs is on the rear leg otherwise, you won't get the shock mounts in.
Thank you again.
I'll correct the tabs.
I had remarked the false way of the star wheel on the picturesbut thought it is only disturbing for the tuning of parking brake, not the function of the starsheel itself : correct ? Otherwise, I'll try to also correct this.
Good remark for the D-flat : I had to change it before I mounted the arm ! (but remarked before...)
Chris
My heat problem is still only on left side (far less on right side, althought there is also a little hot).
I tried once again to ride the LT-1 today and the result was the same...
I think now more of a bearing problem or even a spindle binding : I had to give the LH-side to correct the flatness of the surface for rotor. But now, I belive that the spindle axis itself is bend...
I'm going to show my car to a experienced Corvette mechanic right here in Switzerland (at least 40 years working on C1-C2-C3 Corvettes) : I'll see what he will discover,
Chris
Have the rubber hoses on brake lines been replaced...or not? If not, this is the most likely cause of your wheel heating issues. As the interior of the rubber hoses deteriorates, it forms a thick goo which will allow much higher brake fluid pressure to pass and apply the brakes. But, when the brakes are released, that goo will restrict the full release of fluid pressure...and that residual pressure will cause some partial apply of the brakes...100% of the time. Constant pressure on brake pads...even light pressure...generates heat. Enough heat will melt the bead on the tire or even cause it to catch fire. If you know those jumper hoses are OLD, change them.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Jul 20, 2021 at 05:39 PM.
As already wrote, I'd replaced both hoses with new, made-in-USA rear hoses.
When the heat comes, the calipers are quite cooler then the rest (center and hat).
In addition of that, I don't have the feeling of a resistance on caliper pad when I spin the wheel.
And again, the effort the spin left and right wheels is quite the same from side to side... When the parking brake would play a role here, I thing I must notice some difference on the left side : this is not the case.
If no braking system has 'drag' issues, I'm not sure where HEAT can be generated at the wheels. The only logical component would be the bearings. Have you felt the heat level on the back-side of the wheels near the bearings? If that is the source of heat, that area should be even warmer than the wheels.
Rear brake issue
