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Drivers side rear 29 1/4
Pass side rear 29 5/8
Driver front 27 5/8
Pass front 28
The front end needs to be adjusted/leveled first IMHO.....there is too much difference in the measurements on the frnt end which will cause the rear measuremnets to go"out of wack" and visa versa.
Try to get the front measurements at 28" (IF that is the look you want on the front fender gaps.)
Then you can adjust the rear suspension which is more complicated.
The front end needs to be adjusted/leveled first IMHO.....there is too much difference in the measurements on the frnt end which will cause the rear measuremnets to go"out of wack" and visa versa.
Try to get the front measurements at 28" (IF that is the look you want on the front fender gaps.)
Then you can adjust the rear suspension which is more complicated.
The Energy Suspension poly bushings may also give you the clearance you need. That is what I use in my car. They are a bit thinner, and fit under the rear sway bar mounting bracket (which you appear to have).
You could also try shaving down the rubber bushings you have. But absolutely take a look at the welds on your control arms, and look for play in the strut rod and trailing arm bushings.The picture below was taken after a $2500 investment in a rear end rebuild, that didn't even touch the differential.
Last edited by Bikespace; Aug 10, 2021 at 08:20 PM.
The Energy Suspension poly bushings may also give you the clearance you need. That is what I use in my car. They are a bit thinner, and fit under the rear sway bar mounting bracket (which you appear to have).
You could also try shaving down the rubber bushings you have. But absolutely take a look at the welds on your control arms, and look for play in the strut rod and trailing arm bushings.The picture below was taken after a $2500 investment in a rear end rebuild, that didn't even touch the differential.
i have poly not rubber. And I have some new adjustable strut rods that just came in.
You will need to remove the spring then put the spacer in the spring pocket and re-insert the spring. You’ll need a spring compressor and a ball joint separator or pickle fork to separate the spindle from the control arm. Both can be rented at the local auto parts store. Lots of YouTube videos for reference.
In the original picture it looks like You used longer bolts but then You stacked up washers on top of each other which used up most of what the longer bolts gained. Whats going on with that U-Joint ? Looks like I see a shiny spot where the cup is not centered in the 1/2 shaft. As if the U-Joint is two small and or its off center or the 1/2 shaft has its flanges spread out.
In the original picture it looks like You used longer bolts but then You stacked up washers on top of each other which used up most of what the longer bolts gained. Whats going on with that U-Joint ? Looks like I see a shiny spot where the cup is not centered in the 1/2 shaft. As if the U-Joint is two small and or its off center or the 1/2 shaft has its flanges spread out.
There are no washers stacked up. It is a 1 flat washer then bushing then cup as in the other guys pictures. Nothing wrong with the U joint. Not sure what shiny spot youre talking about. They were put in new 3 years ago.
You will need to remove the spring then put the spacer in the spring pocket and re-insert the spring. You’ll need a spring compressor and a ball joint separator or pickle fork to separate the spindle from the control arm. Both can be rented at the local auto parts store. Lots of YouTube videos for reference.
Yes, but not really all that easy, unless you have some experience.
