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This topic has probably been beat to death but I put 8” bolts to lower the rear end just a bit. That’s what everybody said to do. Everybody said drive it and it will settle. Well 1,200 miles later and it hasn’t budge. Almost have the bottom nut to the end. Don’t know what else to do. I’ve heard get 10” bolts. But these 8” should pull it down some. Thoughts?
Well I was told that too when I bought my new USA made steel spring and the stock 6.25" bolts were too short and the car looked like it was on air shocks. I put 8" bolts to bring it to ride height. The spring hasn't settled but it's only been about 15 years.
Looking at your picture I see some other things as well= The cups in the arm and spring are not flared, there is rust separation in the arm= look at the lower overlaps and the material in between them is rust scaling. I would be more concerned about this.
My rookie advice:
Buy the correct "cupped" washers that fit above and below the rubber cushions to prevent then from being ruined very soon.
I cannot advise you to do this...I removed the thick metal short leaf/spacer at the top of my leaf-spring stack..follow retorquing guidelines if you loosen your leaf-spring stack for ANY reason to prevent from cracking the cover that the spring stack is bolted to.
My car lowered an inch when I made the modification: 1/2" because of the flat spacer thickness...and another 1/2" because the leaf stack was able to settle more.
Take a pic that includes a clear shot of both rear wheels and the spring assembly
WHAT IS THE MEASUREMENT FROM THE FLOOR TO THE FENDER ARCH ON DRIVER-SIDE AND PASSENGER-SIDE REAR CURRENTLY?
WHAT IS THE MEASUREMENT FROM THE FLOOR TO THE FENDER ARCH ON THE DRIVER FRONT AND PASSENGER FRONT CURRENTLY.....take pics
In addition to what @GTR1999 pointed out, 10" bolts would put the end of the spring right next to your tires. If you don't think that is a huge problem, read this thread, and watch the video in post #128
In addition to what @GTR1999 pointed out, 10" bolts would put the end of the spring right next to your tires. If you don't think that is a huge problem, read this thread, and watch the video in post #128
Well I was told that too when I bought my new USA made steel spring and the stock 6.25" bolts were too short and the car looked like it was on air shocks. I put 8" bolts to bring it to ride height. The spring hasn't settled but it's only been about 15 years.
Looking at your picture I see some other things as well= The cups in the arm and spring are not flared, there is rust separation in the arm= look at the lower overlaps and the material in between them is rust scaling. I would be more concerned about this.
Can you show me a pic of what the "cups in the arm and spring are not flared" look like? Are you saying I need new arms?
My rookie advice:
Buy the correct "cupped" washers that fit above and below the rubber cushions to prevent then from being ruined very soon.
I cannot advise you to do this...I removed the thick metal short leaf/spacer at the top of my leaf-spring stack..follow retorquing guidelines if you loosen your leaf-spring stack for ANY reason to prevent from cracking the cover that the spring stack is bolted to.
My car lowered an inch when I made the modification: 1/2" because of the flat spacer thickness...and another 1/2" because the leaf stack was able to settle more.
Take a pic that includes a clear shot of both rear wheels and the spring assembly
WHAT IS THE MEASUREMENT FROM THE FLOOR TO THE FENDER ARCH ON DRIVER-SIDE AND PASSENGER-SIDE REAR CURRENTLY?
WHAT IS THE MEASUREMENT FROM THE FLOOR TO THE FENDER ARCH ON THE DRIVER FRONT AND PASSENGER FRONT CURRENTLY.....take pics
Drivers side rear 29 1/4
Pass side rear 29 5/8
Driver front 27 5/8
Pass front 28
There are some good pictures in the link referred to.
Your arm clearly shows rust separation. The arms are nothing more then overlapped c channel. Moisture, salt, etc gets in between and they rust from the inside out. The area inside the large opening is another one that swells up. I cover this in my seminars and have a cut away showing how much this continues to expand and weaken the arm. I have had arms come in with holes through them. I would check both arms and make your decision.
Are those poly or rubber snubbers at both ends of your bolt? I used rubber and they squish down more than what you have. Also the upper cup washer below the snubber doesn't show it being there in the AIM. Would give you a bit more lowering.
The upper cup washer under the upper poly snubber also doesn't need to be there. You have a bit bolt thread left also.
I see that's how other people have it. I probably need to get some rubber ones. I put 8" bolts in to lower it but it didn't move any. Guess because of the poly bushings.
Lower rear end
