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Charging problems?

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Old Aug 22, 2021 | 02:09 PM
  #21  
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Engine was off.

I wanted to see if I lost the charge in the Batt.
I will start it up later so I can measure the voltage.
First I have to extend the meter cables.
Do they sell that at the auto parts store?
I would prefer to have a set of longer wires.
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Old Aug 22, 2021 | 05:29 PM
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You can buy plain wire and tiny alligator clips to make your leads.
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Old Aug 22, 2021 | 05:40 PM
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Don't screw up my excuse to buy something new! lol
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Old Aug 22, 2021 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Taijutsu
Engine was off.

I wanted to see if I lost the charge in the Batt.
I will start it up later so I can measure the voltage.
First I have to extend the meter cables.
Do they sell that at the auto parts store?
I would prefer to have a set of longer wires.


Sounds like you have enough money in the bank ( Battery) and you are making enough income (13.8v) at the battery
a 12 V battery in comprised of (6)~ 2.1 volt cells- which should be about 12.7 fully charged.
If the voltage measured at the battery is higher than the battery when running- it is being charged-
BUT you need to have some things pulling power to get a proper measurement- like turn the headlights on and check again.
So make sure you are charging- then

Check the parasitic draw - otherwise you'll be chasing your tail- I posted the procedure above.
Right now you don't know if its a bad battery or a "leak" - something staying on draining your battery.
Or even possible you have both- too much parasitic draw and a bad battery...


Richard
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Old Aug 22, 2021 | 09:44 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Taijutsu
I just put the meter on the Batt and the Alt.
Both are 12.65V

The distance from the Pos Alt stud to the Neg Batt lead is more than my Volt Meter can reach.
Any suggestions?

TIA
Several Suggestions...

1) Buy a New Meter with a set of longer leads
2) Buy longer Leads for your Current Meter
3) Make a Jumper Lead with a few feet of wire and an alligator clip on each end.
4) Buy a Pack of Butt Connectors *in your case - the red ones) - and a few feet of 18 ga, wire, cut each test lead and splice in a few extra feet of wire. Use the butt connectors to make the connections.

You really need the car to be running, and the battery down a bit, to get anything useful out of the this diagnostic test. If there is a connection with some degree of resistance - the voltage drop will be proportional to the amount of current flowing.
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Old Aug 24, 2021 | 09:50 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Taijutsu
Elect is not my strong suit! I need some help!
Cavalry has arrived.

Batteries Charging & Draining

Batteries as Swimming Pools
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Old Aug 24, 2021 | 10:19 AM
  #27  
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I ordered longer leads from Amazon.
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Old Aug 25, 2021 | 12:58 AM
  #28  
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Forum: The alt was weak and I had it replaced.
Should solve the problem.
Am getting some dyno time.
I would like to see 300 rwhp /330rwtq
We shall see?
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Old Aug 25, 2021 | 10:56 PM
  #29  
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New Alt solved the problem!
Thanks for everyone's tech help and suggestions.
Now to the dyno! lol
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