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I need to replace my steel leaf spring on my 73 that is 48 years old. I want to go back with the same steel one. I see people say go composite. I do not need or want to lose the extra weight in the rear by using composite and do not want to change shocks as I have read that you have to. Who has done the original steel spring and is there one better than another? And did the new steel spring jack the rear up?
The best post I have ever read on this subject was likely 10 yrs ago. It seems that no two, leaf-spring vendors sell the same spring. What I mean by that is, height of the arch.
Some made the C3 look like a funny car, too stiff, etc. Having said that, a poster on this forum, disgusted with his brand new steel spring did the following:
He laid the new & old springs side by side on the floor. Disassembled both units.
Assembly:
Starting on the bottom row, brand new leaf obviously, that bolts to the T.A.
Next row up was from the old spring..
Then row three was a new leaf.
Row four, old leaf. And so on and so on.
He claimed the finished project had the perfect ride height. Rode nice. And still had all the strength needed to support the weight of the vehicle.
Of course new liners were installed between leafs.
I thought that was pretty clever.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Sep 1, 2021 at 02:52 PM.
The best post I have ever read on this subject was likely 10 yrs ago. It seems that no two, leaf-spring vendors sell the same spring. What I mean by that is, height of the arch.
Some made the C3 look like a funny car, too stiff, etc. Having said that, a poster on this forum, disgusted with his brand new steel spring did the following:
He laid the new & old springs side by side on the floor. Disassembled both units.
Assembly:
Starting on the bottom row, brand new leaf obviously, that bolts to the T.A.
Next row up was from the old spring..
Then row three was a new leaf.
Row four, old leaf. And so on and so on.
He claimed the finished project had the perfect ride height. Rode nice. And still had all the strength needed to support the weight of the vehicle.
Of course new liners were installed between leafs.
What’s wrong with/why do you think there is something wrong with your original spring?
Well other things have been replaced with new stuff I figured why not the spring. It does bow downward a little at both ends if that means anything. It also sits a little lower on one side (driver). There are new shocks, spring bolts and bushings from previous owner.
If the car sets at about the correct height, I wouldn't mess with it. If one side is lower that the other, it could be the front out of adjustment, or all you need to do is adjust the nut at the end of the spring. To raise one side just tighten the nut or visa versa. Is it a 7 or 9 leaf?
i would think you need to know what you are starting with too.. there were at least 2.. 7 and 10 leaf..
pretty sure a crap shoot on where to buy and be sure.. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...estions-2.html
We have an outfit here that makes leaf springs and they can disassemble your old one, heat treat the leaves and reset it. Surely you have someone in the USA that can do the same? Take it to a blacksmith.
My car sat lower on the drivers side, it was caused by the front spring.
Well other things have been replaced with new stuff I figured why not the spring. It does bow downward a little at both ends if that means anything. It also sits a little lower on one side (driver). There are new shocks, spring bolts and bushings from previous owner.
Bowing down at the ends is normal, bowing up would not be.
As haggibash states, your issue could be up front. Get the car level, the. Measure from the floor to the topmost lip of the wheel wells.
The spring bolts need to be torqued with full weight on wheels. Some torque them with no WOW which is incorrect.
If your front measurements are nearly identical, you can level the rear by adding in a washer or two on the low side but if you are off by, say 1/2” or more, you may need to change the spring.
The standard spring the General installed was a 9 leaf and the F41 option put in a 7 leaf. I have had my 7 leaf for more than 50 years and it here is nothing wrong with it. I disassembled it many years ago, cleaned and painted and it looks as good today as it did then.
If the car sets at about the correct height, I wouldn't mess with it. If one side is lower that the other, it could be the front out of adjustment, or all you need to do is adjust the nut at the end of the spring. To raise one side just tighten the nut or visa versa. Is it a 7 or 9 leaf?
it is a 9 leaf. the car has different measurements at each wheel
i would think you need to know what you are starting with too.. there were at least 2.. 7 and 10 leaf..
pretty sure a crap shoot on where to buy and be sure.. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...estions-2.html
Bowing down at the ends is normal, bowing up would not be.
As haggibash states, your issue could be up front. Get the car level, the. Measure from the floor to the topmost lip of the wheel wells.
The spring bolts need to be torqued with full weight on wheels. Some torque them with no WOW which is incorrect.
If your front measurements are nearly identical, you can level the rear by adding in a washer or two on the low side but if you are off by, say 1/2” or more, you may need to change the spring.
The standard spring the General installed was a 9 leaf and the F41 option put in a 7 leaf. I have had my 7 leaf for more than 50 years and it here is nothing wrong with it. I disassembled it many years ago, cleaned and painted and it looks as good today as it did then.
Okay thanks. i have a 9 leaf spring. How do you get the car level if its a different measurement at each wheel?
It is easy to adjust the rear. I would start there. Make sure it is on level ground. The ends of the rear spring have a long bolt going down through the spring with a big nut on the end. This nut is made to adjust the tension of the spring. Measure from the ground to the center of the wheel well. Which side looks the best,,,, adjust the other side. Tighten the side you want to raise, loosen the side you want to lower. Easy. It doesn't sound that it is that far off. If you are lucky this might fix the front at the same time. This also assumes the body is on the frame straight.
It is easy to adjust the rear. I would start there. Make sure it is on level ground. The ends of the rear spring have a long bolt going down through the spring with a big nut on the end. This nut is made to adjust the tension of the spring. Measure from the ground to the center of the wheel well. Which side looks the best,,,, adjust the other side. Tighten the side you want to raise, loosen the side you want to lower. Easy. It doesn't sound that it is that far off. If you are lucky this might fix the front at the same time. This also assumes the body is on the frame straight.
Yea I know how to do that. There are 8" bolts on the car as though someone wanted to close the rear tire gap.
The steel spring in my 78 was looking a little weak so I had it recurved to stock specs at a specialty spring shop. The rear was then to high. Put in some 8” bolts to be able to adjust it down. The spring also has some side-to-side play when everything is loosened up. Check how close the spring ends are to the tires.
Well other things have been replaced with new stuff I figured why not the spring. It does bow downward a little at both ends if that means anything. It also sits a little lower on one side (driver). There are new shocks, spring bolts and bushings from previous owner.
This is my original spring before I reconditioned it:
leaf spring
