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So I installed this ignition system on my 1971 350, and with the key in the on position, this wire gets pretty hot all the way through the wiring harness. Has anyone else run into this, do I need to run a new wire from the fuse box?
This is an Accel 8140 12V coil.
I think that's the resistance wire to limit the current to the points. If you have upgraded to HEI, MSD, or otherwise eliminated points, run a new wire from the IGN terminal on your fuse box.
I think that's the resistance wire to limit the current to the points. If you have upgraded to HEI, MSD, or otherwise eliminated points, run a new wire from the IGN terminal on your fuse box.
Thank you for your input. As I suffer from a reading comprehension disability, the installation instructions confused me, and yes, I did upgrade to the Accel Points Eliminator Ignition system.
That coil is a much 'hotter' unit that the stock factory coil. As the resistance wire serves to limit current to the coil, and the Accel coil would use much more current [if it could], the wire is absorbing the overage in HEAT. Run regular wire (of a size adequate for the Accel coil] instead of using the resistance wire. If you have re-gapped your spark plugs to something around .060", I suggest that you dial it back to about .045". That will provide all the spark power your engine requires AND it will be better for your wiring and the coil.
That coil is a much 'hotter' unit that the stock factory coil. As the resistance wire serves to limit current to the coil, and the Accel coil would use much more current [if it could], the wire is absorbing the overage in HEAT. Run regular wire (of a size adequate for the Accel coil] instead of using the resistance wire. If you have re-gapped your spark plugs to something around .060", I suggest that you dial it back to about .045". That will provide all the spark power your engine requires AND it will be better for your wiring and the coil.
Unfortunately that is an excellent way to burn out the points eliminator which requires a resistance wire or a ballast resistor.
I have the same unit for many years made by Mallory so something else is going on if that wire is getting hot.
Did the original poster connect the factory wire to the + positive side of the coil?
Did the original poster connect the red wire from the points eliminator to the + positive side of the coil?
Did the original poster connect the green wire from the points eliminator to the - negative side of the coil?
Did the original poster connect the brown wire from the points eliminator to a good ground?
That coil is a much 'hotter' unit that the stock factory coil. As the resistance wire serves to limit current to the coil, and the Accel coil would use much more current [if it could], the wire is absorbing the overage in HEAT. Run regular wire (of a size adequate for the Accel coil] instead of using the resistance wire. If you have re-gapped your spark plugs to something around .060", I suggest that you dial it back to about .045". That will provide all the spark power your engine requires AND it will be better for your wiring and the coil.
I truly appreciate your help/advice, as it has been a very long time since I did stuff like this, and my mind just Isn't what it used to be. I found a length of 12 ga. stranded wire to run from the ignition post in the fuse block, to the hot side of the coil, should be good to go, I think. I hadn't re-gapped the plugs yet, and they have been in there since I rebuilt the engine some 12 years ago, then it sat without running until recently, so I just ordered a new set of plugs and a new Accel cap and rotor set. I'll take your advice and set the plugs to .045 when they arrive. Not sure if it will make any difference but I installed a set of double hump LT1 heads when I rebuilt the engine, and added a Edelbrock Performer intake.
Unfortunately that is an excellent way to burn out the points eliminator which requires a resistance wire or a ballast resistor.
I have the same unit for many years made by Mallory so something else is going on if that wire is getting hot.
Did the original poster connect the factory wire to the + positive side of the coil?
Did the original poster connect the red wire from the points eliminator to the + positive side of the coil?
Did the original poster connect the green wire from the points eliminator to the - negative side of the coil?
Did the original poster connect the brown wire from the points eliminator to a good ground?
Yes to all. Are you running a stock coil?
This is a quote from the installation instructions.
"For optimum performance in systems without an ACCEL 275+/300+ or similar
ignition control, use one of ACCEL’s 4 specially matched coils which eliminates the
need for a ballast resistor or a resistance wire. These coils are: 140205, 8140 or
8140C Canister SuperStock coils,140009 HD E-core SuperCoil."
Yes to all. Are you running a stock coil?
This is a quote from the installation instructions.
"For optimum performance in systems without an ACCEL 275+/300+ or similar
ignition control, use one of ACCEL’s 4 specially matched coils which eliminates the
need for a ballast resistor or a resistance wire. These coils are: 140205, 8140 or
8140C Canister SuperStock coils,140009 HD E-core SuperCoil."
did you look at Figure 3 in the instructions?
It shows the 8140 coil with the OEM primary resistance wire, not a new wire.
did you look at Figure 3 in the instructions?
It shows the 8140 coil with the OEM primary resistance wire, not a new wire.
I did review figure 3, and that's what confused me so bad that I came here for help/clarification. The new wire that I ran doesn't even get warm, so I guess time will tell if the the module gets fried.
My understanding of the instruction sheet is this. If you are going to use this Accel points eliminator in a 1971 Corvette 350 engine, with a stock coil, then you should utilize the resistor wire built into the stock wiring harness.
If however you choose to use an aftermarket coil such as the Accel Super Stock 8140, then you will need to provide a non-resistor 12v power supply. I think its pretty stupid that they tell you to do this in the instructions, and then provide an illustration that completely contradicts the instructions.
Soooo are you running the stock coil, or one of the aftermarket coils discussed in the instructions?
GENERAL INFORMATION Ignition Coils:
The ACCEL Points Eliminator Ignition System is designed to work with most stock
ignition coils and aftermarket high performance ignition coils. For optimum
performance in systems without an ACCEL 275+/300+ or similar ignition control, use
one of ACCEL’s 4 specially matched coils eliminates the need for a ballast resistor or
a resistance wire. These coils are: 140205, 8140 or 8140C SuperStock Canister
Coils, 140009 HD E-core SuperCoil.
Last edited by dprinter1; Oct 3, 2021 at 09:24 PM.
Reason: added more information
I recommend you call their tech line so you dont break down on the side of the road. I have always, 30+ years, used the resistor wire on the + positive side of the coil and have no problem hitting 6,500 rpm. I have never used that Accel coil.
The OP stated that the instructions were to NOT use the resistance wire. Your proposals were good but not applicable in his case.
if you looked at the instructions you will see they contradict themselves. They clearly show the coil he is using with the OEM primary resistance wire. Thus calling Accel rather than risking burning out the module is the smart thing to do.
I recommend you call their tech line so you dont break down on the side of the road. I have always, 30+ years, used the resistor wire on the + positive side of the coil and have no problem hitting 6,500 rpm. I have never used that Accel coil.
Okay......I called Holly/Accel tech department and spoke with a guy there. It turns out that the illustration for figure-3, on the sheet I have is incorrect, and it is form # 1580A dated 1/04. This sheet/form should never have been printed with any reference to the "OEM Primary Resistance Wire" in figure-3, as it doesn't apply. The guy on the other end of the phone kept telling me that I must be looking at Fig-4, which covers using the stock coil with the OEM resistance wire. After a few times of back and forth with him, I asked him to tell me what the form number was on the bottom of the page he was looking at and he said it is 1581A, and there is no reference to the "OEM Primary Resistance Wire" in figure-3. I failed to ask him the revision date, but it is obvious that the instructions were corrected at some point.
An GM OEM coil in a points situation applies a full 12v when cranking the engine. In the run position the coil only needs between 6-8v. These high powered coils need a full 12v all the time, and heavier wire to carry the load.
You are almost correct on the coil voltage. When starting, the coil gets 12vdc if the starter solenoid has an "S" terminal and a wire from that is sent to the coil. When ignition is in "RUN" mode (power coming from the "R" terminal on the solenoid), the 12 vdc is sent thru the resistance wire. It doesn't really 'set' the voltage; the resistance wire 'limits' the current flowing thru that wire so that the coil isn't damaged and that the points (if still there) won't burn. So the resistance wire sets the current level, rather than establishing voltage for the coil.
The module quit working yesterday, so I ordered the PerTronics II with the matching coil. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it doesn't **** the bed too.
The module quit working yesterday, so I ordered the PerTronics II with the matching coil. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it doesn't **** the bed too.
Did the module failed because it was supplied full voltage because the resistance wire was bypassed?
The module quit working yesterday, so I ordered the PerTronics II with the matching coil. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it doesn't **** the bed too.
Good luck with that. I tried the Pertronix 2 years ago and it left me on the side of the road. I was lucky enough I kept the points in the back of the car and pulled the distributor and swapped them in on the side of the road that night. I would suggest you keep them as a back up.
Good luck with that. I tried the Pertronix 2 years ago and it left me on the side of the road. I was lucky enough I kept the points in the back of the car and pulled the distributor and swapped them in on the side of the road that night. I would suggest you keep them as a back up.
Need Help 12v Coil Wiring
