Heat Riser
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Racer
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 338
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Heat Riser
Hello. I would like to take the heat riser valve out of my 69. I Believe that it is basically a matter of taking the nuts that attach it between the manifold and exhaust pipe. My question is if it can be done with out having to put heat to those nuts and just frequent soaking of penetrating oil. Not sure how or when they were installed. It would be nice if they used some hi temp never seize. Just wondered if anyone has been successful with out having to heat them. I don't want to snap a stud or two or three. Thanks and take care.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
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Yes I've gotten them apart many times. I have also stripped and snapped off studs.
How rusty are they? did the last guy use Anti-seize? Do they have the brass nuts on them?
All you can do is try. there are no guarantees.
Soak em for a couple days, reweting them often. then give it a go. replacement studs are cheap. Drilling out the old stud. Not so much fun.
How rusty are they? did the last guy use Anti-seize? Do they have the brass nuts on them?
All you can do is try. there are no guarantees.
Soak em for a couple days, reweting them often. then give it a go. replacement studs are cheap. Drilling out the old stud. Not so much fun.
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
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From: US-PNW
If they're the standard, long length studs, run a thread chaser the open length of the studs. That will at least allow the nut to free-turn once it hits that section. I'd still try heating the nuts with a propane torch and allowing to cool, cycling at least 2 or 3 times to break any corrosion bonding between the two parts. Liberally apply a penetrating lubricant (not WD-40) to both sides of the nut prior to and after each of the heating cycles. PB Blaster is a pretty good commercial product for that. Then lastly, lube the open stud lengths prior to unscrewing the nuts. Hopefully all will let loose easily.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Texas
Removing the heat riser will probably require a spacer which most vendors sell or gut the oem one and weld up the shaft holes and reinstall it.
Last edited by speedreed8; Nov 6, 2021 at 01:26 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 338
Likes: 56
Want to thank those who answered. With lots of PB Blaster and a bit of time the studs came out fairly easily. Perhaps never-seize had been used? Anyhow no broken studs or drill work needed. Nice not to have one job ending up to be two or more jobs. Take care.
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