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Broken lifter? Need Help

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Old Nov 18, 2021 | 07:45 AM
  #61  
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The 305 was a bad choice......this is what I called the "Fairgrounds Cam" back in the day......in the 80's it was marketed as the "Pro Street" cam.....the only way that cam works is with bad *** heads, a tunnel ram, and a 4/5 speed trans......lots of gear......
Sure sounds good though...LOL.

Jebby
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Old Nov 18, 2021 | 08:10 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Jebbysan
The 305 was a bad choice......this is what I called the "Fairgrounds Cam" back in the day......in the 80's it was marketed as the "Pro Street" cam.....the only way that cam works is with bad *** heads, a tunnel ram, and a 4/5 speed trans......lots of gear......
Sure sounds good though...LOL.

Jebby
Oh boy. Learnin while I’m young I guess.

Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
I don't believe a .0525 lift is going to be an issue with this cam.

However, that cam has gobs of duration. So much so, that it might be a nightmare on the street. That cam doesn't even go to work until 3,000 RPMs.
A quick Google search showed at Jegs:
525 lift / 305 dur

*3,500 stall speed converter a must.
*Big gears in the back a must.
*10.5 comp ratio or more a must.

*Do you have all these requirements?
Yes. I put in the 3500 stall. Has 10.5:1 Unless 3.73 gears are too low
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Old Nov 18, 2021 | 08:36 AM
  #63  
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Ok. It will still be a challenge to run properly on the street. Already installed? Or returnable? You will not be happy with this duration.

This is a classic example of why one should always use the 800 numbers at a cam company of your choice for selecting a cam.
Give them your specs, about 20 questions. They, in return will select for you the perfect cam.

But, you have to know everything about the engine. A data sheet with specs. Not just what someone told you was inside.


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Old Nov 18, 2021 | 08:58 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Ok. It will still be a challenge to run properly on the street. Already installed? Or returnable? You will not be happy with this duration.

This is a classic example of why one should always use the 800 numbers at a cam company of your choice for selecting a cam.
Give them your specs, about 20 questions. They, in return will select for you the perfect cam.

But, you have to know everything about the engine. A data sheet with specs. Not just what someone told you was inside.
Its already installed. However, it will be a challenge but not impossible. I don’t do much street driving anyway anymore So just have to learn to drive with the cam. And work out the kinks.
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Old Nov 18, 2021 | 12:58 PM
  #65  
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Could the tick just be from Worn out rocker arms? Those were the only thing I didn’t change
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Old Nov 18, 2021 | 03:34 PM
  #66  
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A rocker arm tick, meaning you are 90% sure its a rocker arm, is from too much valvelash. Seldom do the rockers themselves contribute to valvetrain noise.
A worn cam lobe, bent pushrod, lifters, etc will make noise.

If you are hearing a rocker tick, pull a valve cover. Start the engine and locate the questionable rocker. Set the lash.
If that does not fix the issue, look for a broken valve spring.
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Old Nov 18, 2021 | 04:25 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Jebbysan
The 305 was a bad choice......this is what I called the "Fairgrounds Cam" back in the day......in the 80's it was marketed as the "Pro Street" cam.....the only way that cam works is with bad *** heads, a tunnel ram, and a 4/5 speed trans......lots of gear......
Sure sounds good though...LOL.

Jebby
I agree...This IS exactly why I asked if this was a street car...BAD choice for a street car cam IMO. SO, with the money already spent and "maybe" more to come, that retro roller IS lookin' pretty good about now. Sure hope he is NOT having more cam issues right now which would suck even more. Hopefully you will be able to work something out. Keep us posted.

Last edited by Buccaneer; Nov 18, 2021 at 09:39 PM.
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Old Nov 19, 2021 | 10:25 AM
  #68  
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I'll bring it up since no one else will... Old school single pattern cams are old school and not as popular today for a reason. They often provide a bit more power on the lower end but tend to give up twice that power at higher rpms. Engine Masters literally just did an episode on this a couple weeks ago comparing the two on a dyno. Basically its much the same type of tradeoff as a single plane intake vs dual plane only with the single pattern cam behaving more like a dual plane intake. If the heads flow poorly on the exhaust side it might minimize the difference and if this was a street cruiser the slight increase at the lower rpms might even be beneficial but since it was mentioned this is not, its something to consider, especially if better heads are a future possible upgrade since the cam is not as simple to swap as the intake manifold.

Last edited by augiedoggy; Nov 19, 2021 at 12:34 PM.
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