I dont know the specs of that oil but im skeptical on how it still would have more ZDDP when modern diesels have more emissions and o2 sensors to foul up than modern gas engines.. I suppose theres other substitutes in the additive package.

 

I have been thinking, Jebby said a 292H mag and that would be a good cam, could I just get a slightly bigger stall mine is a 2800 or 3000 I believe. And go with the 305H or what would the solid or hydraulic roller equivalent be? And would it be better to have a solid roller or a hydraulic roller? I’m really leaning towards just keeping the flat cam so I wouldn’t have to get very more expensive and complicated to swap over to the roller..

 

depends on heads, intake mani, and exhaust.
it is a total package.
and welcome to the world of engine performance.

 

keep in mind there will be other aspects of the bigger cam that will suck. There will be tradeoffs thats why everyone isnt running big cams.
It will be much more finicky to get warmed up and running. and it wont be as nice to drive on the street. You may not produce enough vacuum for the brakes or lights to work well.. I noticed just from my small jump, my engine became more finicky with a stumble when cold that requires a bit more warm up than my old 262 cam. Also the bigger cams shift the power band to higher rpms and tend to kill low end torque. depending on how you drive the car and what you use it for you may not like it and you may end up having to change things like your rear differential gears to use that higher rpm power correctly.

And im no expert but ive read many times that solid cams require a lot more maintenance, They are not typically preferred for a street engine. You will have to constantly check and adjust them. I had them on my old air cooled VW kit car and had to adjust them numerous times.

 

15W40 MOBIL DELVAC 1300 SUPER Diesel Oil conventional, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4/SM, SL = 73,300 psi
zinc = 1297 ppm
phos = 1944 ppm
ZDDP = 1600 ppm

Oil ZDDP List

 

GM Engine Oil Supplement ,Item #:1052367 ANA Labscode:iron 5
chrome 1
lead 1
copper 0
tin 0
alum 1
nickel 1
silver 0
silicon 10
boron 2
sodium 978
mag 877
calcium 2583
barium 7
phos 6144
zinc 6290
moly 2
titanium 0
vanadium 1
potassium 4
fuel 0.00
vis@100°C 36.3 cSt
water 0.05
solids 0.00
glycol pos(?)

 

Are you saying use it as like add a quart of that to reg oil or use it as the oil?

 

The GM EOS comes in a pint bottle, add that and 4.5 qts of Delvac 1300. Break-in your cam than change the filter and top off to the full mark using the Delvac 1300. Run car and at next oil change run 5 qts of Delvac 1300.

You can run any brand diesel oil, I prefer Delvac 1300 and run it in my Duramax, Vette and John Deere.

 

Were you using any zddp additive for the flat tappet cam you have?

 

No as I had no idea, that I needed too. Might’ve been what did it through in the long run.

 

I didn't say $900 between the two. I said avg $200 for a FT cam and avg $900 for a roller with all the needed hardware.
In other words, there are hidden cost switching to roller that adds up later.

The FT cam is a straight forward swap without additional parts.
A roller needs lots of additional modified parts. Like I said the timing cover, shorter pushrods, etc, etc, etc.

 

But to be honest most who swap cams are swapping more than just the cam if they are looking for performance, cosmetics or even bragging rights which is just as common.
I bet if a poll was done more than half end up replacing pushrods, springs timing chain covers and even distributors. I bet a good portion replace intakes and even heads. In my case I literally spent $260 more on on my roller setup than I did on my flat tappet setup because much of the components were replaced regardless. I wasnt going to use the stock rocker arms nor the worn weak stock pushrods with the stronger springs. virtually all aftermarket and performance distributors come with gears that are compatible with ductile iron roller cams. even later GM stock distributors I believe as they came with roller cams. All im saying is the REAL cost difference may not be that High in many cases. heck im about to replace my heads again with longer valved heads which likely means I once again need new pushrods regardless of cam.

This is going to come off the wrong way but here in this thread we have an all to often example of a possible "hidden cost" of going with a new flat tappet cam.

Ethan_Hensley do you happen to know if your 383 is otherwise stock besides the cam and well obviously the aftermarket crank, rods and pistons? I am willing to bet theres at least an aftermarket timing chain cover and even rocker arms on that thing already. Its clear this isnt a sleeper stock looking build so why put all that old stamped stuff on a new 383 build? Even reusing the stock heads would be a poor choice. I mean, Can you even use stock heads and components with the larger cams the OP is talking about flat tappet or not?
It even looks like it already has side pipes...

 

I watched a random engine builder video who had a theory on all the flat tappet cam failures. His theory was the delphi flat tappet lifters with the black circle around the base were the only reliable ones left. He didn't think it was a cam issue and all the other flat tappet lifters were a crap shoot of foreign made stuff. I went roller cam with mine, my engine builder won't even use flat tappet cams anymore unless that's the only option when rebuilding a engine.

A retro roller cam and lifters is around $700. Then you needs pushrods, maybe a distributer gear, and a timing cover and button. So there is another $200-$250. Roller cams are smoother, but the link bars tick a bit at idle. If I went flat tappet I might try and scrounge up some delphi lifters or some other non-china lifters.

 

JMO ... of those individuals whose Direct experience isn't so broad or with many different methods ... many will lean toward recommending only what they've have some success with ... even when they have Not had direct experience with an alternate method . When & if that's the case, you've just been mislead by inexperience. YMMV

In other words; just because someone has a family heritage and tons of direct experience polishing buggy whips ....

 

And, there ARE other ways to skin that retro roller cat ... see "keyed" lifter bores. ... or just find a cheap One-piece rms block.

 

Not sure if I need to start a new thread for this but, got cam install done put all back together. I followed Jebbs break in to the T. The oil recommendations and the oil additive. Lifters rotate freely in their holes. The start and get it to 2-2.5k rpm And let her vary in between the two. Moly paste, everything. But I took her for the first drive and she’s started ticking again and white smoke is coming from my passenger side pipe. Should I be worried? Is this normal for break in drives?

Went with magnum 305H cam kit. All new springs lifters, pushrods, timing chain etc. As well as bigger stall

 

Sorry your havng issues..i say stick with this thread…
reading many others posts…
white smoke may be water? I would pressure check your coolant system for leaks..as a start…maybe it washed your lubricant prior?

 

That cam has a lot of lift. Did you check the piston to valve clearance when you assembled the motor?

 

Is this a street car or track car?

 

I don't believe a .0525 lift is going to be an issue with this cam.

However, that cam has gobs of duration. So much so, that it might be a nightmare on the street. That cam doesn't even go to work until 3,000 RPMs.
A quick Google search showed at Jegs:
525 lift / 305 dur

*3,500 stall speed converter a must.
*Big gears in the back a must.
*10.5 comp ratio or more a must.

*Do you have all these requirements?