Looking for anyone who has experience installing a Borgeson Steering Box on a C3 Vette. I need some advice specifically on the process of tapping the steering column inward approximately two inches. My 1972 is not cooperating and anyone who has done this, I would appreciate your input. I have checked the You Tube Videos and it looks easier than what i am experiencing in terms of the amount of force needed with the wood block and hammer. Thanks.

 

Lots and it is easier with the column out of the car. Measure the shaft while in place, mark it and remove. Then whack the end to get it about 1/2” from your mark. Reinstall and fine tune to the exact length. Once you get it moving outside of the car, it is easier to make the fine adjustments when reinstalled.

 

I left mine in the car (but the engine is out waiting a crate engine install)

Mark the steering shaft at 1.5”, 1.75” and at 2” increments. Mine ended up needing just shy of 2” collapse to fit the Borgeson box, (but all cars are different) and do NOT go too far. Start by tapping in to the 1.5” mark and if that isn’t far enough, try again in stages. Again, do not tap it in too far, it is heck trying to beat it back out!

I was able to take a block of wood and a 2 lb sledge hammer, sprayed PB blaster on the lower shaft. And tapped it in in increments. It took several tries but got it.
Mine tapped in without too much trouble, but I ended up breaking the plastic bearing on the bottom of the column.
I ordered a new bearing kit pretty reasonably, and went in in a snap.



Yellow arrow is pointing at the lower shaft bearing that fell apart on me. Other than that, the Borgeson box went in without a hitch. Note: My install was super easy because my engine was already out for my partial resto. With the engine in, I’d say it will be a lot more time consuming and will cause a few more curse words to be uttered. 🤪

 

Factoid, I would like to keep the steering column in the car if possible just to keep this project from getting any bigger!
Jarhead 74 Vette, I will try PB Blaster since WD 40 hasn't done the trick!

Thanks for the responses.

 

Drill a hole in the block of wood the same diameter of the shaft. Also mark the shaft as jarhead suggested , periodically swing steering box to verify gap/fit install lower bolt so it can pivot and order a new lower bearing kit

 

Factoid - WD40 is not a penetrant to get rusty old parts apart. PB Blaster is one of the best (if not THE best) at doing this.
https://blasterproducts.com/product/...ter-penetrant/

 

I just did mine. It's really not that much more work to remove the column from the car, four nuts. The wire harnesses just pull out. If your rag joint looks anything like Jarheads, you are probably going to have to pound it off with a hammer. You are also going to have to clean those splined very well or you'll never git the new rag joint to slip on. I cleaned mine on the wire wheel and still had to pound the new rag joint on and off a few times to git to slip fit with only hand pressure. All much easier with the column removed. While it's out you can repaint it at the same time! If you do go too far in with the shaft, just clamp a large pair of vise grips on it and you can pound it out again.

 

Thanks for all the good tips.
I am letting the PB Blaster soak in and will report back!

 

I used a short punch and a dead blow hammer. And in 2 hits it was free. Obviously you are trying to protect the splines and wood does that. However the wood also absorbs the impact somewhat.

 

Just be sure you have an original column. If it isn't original, it won't collapse.

 

Factoid agrees with this statement and never recommended WD40 for anything.

Removing the column is easy and if you need to replace the lower bearing, makes it a breeze.

 

I mentioned using PB Blaster on my steering column mainly because it works great and is relatively inexpensive. I grabbed it out of habit and it worked fine.
However, for those SUPER stubborn/ rusty bolts, I recently found AeroKroil mentioned here on the forum.
It’s quite expensive at $32 per 16oz aerosol can, but it’s all relative to how much your time and sanity is worth. I bought 2 cans as I will be replacing my body mount bolts soon, and I would REALLLLY like to skip sawzall work and caged nut issues. I’ve been dousing my body mount bolts weekly for 2 months. They’re ready to be removed as well, but life gets in the way, and that project keeps getting sidelined. Lol
When I removed my T/A’s last weekend, I was quite surprised how easily the castle nuts came loose (and I have read about some horror stories on here including the use of sawzall’s, torches, etc to remove them). I sprayed all the fasteners 30 minutes prior to disassembly and again while removing each nut/bolt. Easy peasy. I had my calipers, differential, both trailing arms and diff crossmember out in 2 hours, working on a gravel floor in my carport.
Most of that time was spent fighting brake lines and fuel lines that were strategically placed by Chevys “engineers” in an effort to cause as much grief as possible for DIY mechanics like me.

Greg

 

I tried in the car. Failed, and damaged the splines. I took the column out of the car, fixed the splines, collapsed the column, and replaced the lower bearing "while I was in there" (TM).

Kano Kroil smells a lot better than PB Blaster, but I wouldn't recommend spraying any of that into your steering column.

 

Update. I used PB Blaster, let it soak in a day, reapplied let it soak in a day, repeat. Then I used the wood block with a counter sunk hole over the steering shaft splines, pounded and pounded. The shaft did not budge!! Is there something I am missing like the trans lock device which I disabled when the tranny was rebuilt or the key position for the locking steering column or....??
Am i missing something in the process? ARRG!!! Help!!

 

I’m sorry you are making this so hard on your self. For all this pounding and cussing and bending over and swinging, you could have pulled the column, smacked it close, replaced the lower bearing (if required), reinstalled it, tapped it to perfect length, and been finished several times.

I offer that advice again only because you posted and asked.

 

I agree with Factoid. Probably easiest for you to pull the steering column. Since you (very likely) already have the column disconnected from the dash mount and the rag joint and old steering box removed, all you have left to do is remove the firewall mount bolts and disconnect the wire harness from the column and it’s free. Much easier to do that way.
In my case, my engine and trans were already out and it left a perfect spot for me to climb in to with ample space to swing a small 2lb sledge hammer.
Like others have stated, pull the steering column completely out and put it in a vise.
Once you get it broken free to where it has started to compress in, reinstall the steering column and make your “fine tune” adjustments as needed by “dry fitting” the Borgeson box until it fits just right.
Remember: do NOT go too far in with the lower shaft, it will be very difficult to tap it back out.

Greg

 

Is it possible the inner bearing race is stuck that bad?

 

What are you missing? Following the advice of nearly everyone who's already done it. Perhaps I should have posted a photo with my advice to pull the steering column.

What's holding you up is the two plastic tabs that you need to break inside the column. You'll never see them, but that is likely the cause of your distress. It takes a good whack, and I was not able to get enough swing to do it in the car.

I was able to damage the steering column, though. Here are the splines I had to repair with a Dremel from attempting to collapse the column in the car. It was easy in the vise.

 

Thanks guys, I was listening to your advice. But maybe Borgeson should have been more detailed on the install, I will now pull the steering column shaft and proceed. Thanks for all your help. I will keep you posted on my 72 vette and other gremlins. Thanks!

 

Let the PB Blaster soak in I used a small sledge hammer and a block of wood, I also put tape on the shaft where i needed to tap it into