When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Soak everything in PB blaster or whatever you like
If you can get a coupler nut (the ones that are like an extra long nut) and then a short bolt of the same thread. If not then a normal nut but be careful. Thread is 5/8 x 18.
Thread the nut on a bunch of threads and then thread the other bolt in until it bottoms out against the end of the shock mount and hit that with a hammer. That way you're hitting the end of the mount rather than loading the threads (shear)
You can put the stock nut on backwards and wind it down with the end and hit that being careful not to bugger the end up
The "tool" is basically a long nut with a cap and it bottoms out on the cap,
M
they are basically just a long nut that either had a blind tapped hole or a plate welded onto the far end. It's not rocket science but all you're trying to do in be able to pound on the end without screwing up the thread / mushrooming the end of the bolt.
M
I bought it about 40 years ago it is a tool to remove the shock mount I have used it many times over the years. I just looked in the Paragon catalog they have them for 25.00 rear shock shaft tool removes shock shaft from spindle support the tapped hole in the toll is flat on the bottom so it does not hurt the threads on the shock shaft
Last edited by ralphspears; Nov 20, 2021 at 02:37 PM.
The shock mount tool is the best way to remove them without mushrooming the threaded end but then the knurl on the heads are going to be flat anyway. So you can reuse it with flat knurls or just but a new one. The LH side will tend to turn CW while tightening if the knurl is rolled, you can support it with a 2x4 or pipe wrench when torquing it and it might stay in place but if it moves it will start to roll over the D-Flat in the support leg.
Now being in CT there rust issue comes to play. I have had arms come in with the strut rod still installed because the shock mount was seized to the steel sleeve in the bushing and there was no way oil was going to get to that point to loosen it. If that is the case then you will have to replace more then a shock mount.
Also when the 63 came out, there was no webbing between the legs and it didn't take a year before the revision from 64-82 had webbing cast in between the legs. The point is the legs can bend if hammered on too hard and the mount is seized. I recall buying supports off ebay and when they came in were junk, the legs bent from someone who didn't know how to get out a seized mount.
I used a 3/8 inch NPT pipe cap on mine (about $2.00 at the local hardware store) and a 3 lb. drilling hammer. Came out relatively easy. Fortunately, they were not seized.
What is it? Actually a tool or just a long nut? Were did you get it?
Can someone please explain to me how when using this tool, you aren't putting the impact of each hammer strike directly on the threads of the shock mount itself?
When you thread the tool all the way down until it bottoms out, are there still some threads showing on the shock mount?
Can someone please explain to me how when using this tool, you aren't putting the impact of each hammer strike directly on the threads of the shock mount itself?
When you thread the tool all the way down until it bottoms out, are there still some threads showing on the shock mount?
Can someone please explain to me how when using this tool, you aren't putting the impact of each hammer strike directly on the threads of the shock mount itself?
When you thread the tool all the way down until it bottoms out, are there still some threads showing on the shock mount?
Thanks
The tool bottoms out so the impact is on the end of the mount but the mount end is protected from damage.