When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I put new heads (ARF aluminum) on the car. As usual, when you change on thing, you may have to change 10 others.
My stock Chevrolet aluminum fin valve covers that came with the car didn’t fit because of the comp cam needle rockers. I wanted a cast aluminum cover like the original and went with Proform Parts 141-927.
Being taller, the original fan belt didn’t fit. The alternator would hit the cover. So, I purchased a fan belt 1 inch bigger. It fits, but the now the belt is loose when tighten to the furthest position on the current top bracket. I was thinking of removing the new belt ½ inch shorter and seeing if that cleared once the alternator belt was tightened.
If that doesn’t work, do they make a top bracket with a little more distance?
might be tough getting that belt on with 1/2 shorter but worth a shot!
i would clock that alternator one turn to counter clockwise as well to keep hot wires further from valve cover.. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-clocking.html
Last edited by interpon; Nov 22, 2021 at 02:23 PM.
The belt I'm running puts my Alternator just slightly past mid way on the adjusting bracket. Yes you just went to far with the 1inch longer bolt. Go the 1/2 inch and you should clear the valve cover and have adjustment.
And yes your Alternator is not clocked correctly for a Corvette.
I'd consider clocking your alternator to the C3 orientation, to get the connector away from your valve cover.
Otherwise, you could fabricate a turnbuckle adjustment, similar to your front shock tower brace. You might just need the small piece that relocates the upper mount point, as in the example at the link.
Cut a V in the top bracket and welded it back together or alternator brackets from a later car. Ether would also most likely stop the radiator hose from rubbing.
My guess is the radiator hose that is clamped onto the real radiator hose is there to keep the alt bracket from chaffing the hose???? Why is that there. You should have plenty of clearance between the hose and the alt bracket. I don't think your bracket is right or not bolted in the proper spot at the bottom. If it were lower then the proper size belt should work. Please post more pictures of both the upper and lower brackets. Do you run headers?
My guess is the radiator hose that is clamped onto the real radiator hose is there to keep the alt bracket from chaffing the hose???? Why is that there. You should have plenty of clearance between the hose and the alt bracket. I don't think your bracket is right or not bolted in the proper spot at the bottom. If it were lower then the proper size belt should work. Please post more pictures of both the upper and lower brackets. Do you run headers?
i think the hose is to protect from shrapnel and or belt hitting if it breaks.. 79 had bracket for that..
I put new heads (ARF aluminum) on the car. As usual, when you change on thing, you may have to change 10 others.
My stock Chevrolet aluminum fin valve covers that came with the car didn’t fit because of the comp cam needle rockers. I wanted a cast aluminum cover like the original and went with Proform Parts 141-927.
Being taller, the original fan belt didn’t fit. The alternator would hit the cover. So, I purchased a fan belt 1 inch bigger. It fits, but the now the belt is loose when tighten to the furthest position on the current top bracket. I was thinking of removing the new belt ½ inch shorter and seeing if that cleared once the alternator belt was tightened.
If that doesn’t work, do they make a top bracket with a little more distance?
First off, the J-bar is typically mounted behind, not in front of the alternator.
If you need a bit more clearance to the valve cover, simply make a spacer (~1/8 - 1/2" thick) to go between the F-bracket and its mount. Then you can also go back to the longer belt.
And if you are running headers, you could use a Header Power Bracket and it's spacer.
good eye..
yup move alternator to front of bar... re clock alternator and see if that fixes it.
op assume you have a 69??
see attached PDF's.. and you may want to download this and go to page 201 and 202
i think the hose is to protect from shrapnel and or belt hitting if it breaks.. 79 had bracket for that..
As shown in these pictures see how much closer the bracket is to the alternator and not the rad hose. Also notice the straight part of the bracket before the curve is almost directly in the center of the valve cover. In the OP's pictures it's way to far towards the intake. I still don't think this is the right bracket or it's not installed in the right place at the bottom. Did it work correctly before the head swap?
good eye..
yup move alternator to front of bar... re clock alternator and see if that fixes it.
op assume you have a 69??
see attached PDF's.. and you may want to download this and go to page 201 and 202
1) I went to NAPA and they had a belt 1/2 shorter. It fits! Sometimes you just get lucky.
2) Darn, that was the way my alternator was mounted when I got it. I will relocate the J bar to the back, instead of the front. Although does it really make a difference?
3) I will have to reclock the alternator. I read this from the other post from 71 Green 454.
Alternator clocking is viewed from the rear to determine the correct position for the location of the plug. Early alts have 4 positions, 12, 3, 6, and 9 and late model 1986 and later has 3 positions, 11, 3, and 7. Using the adjusting tension bolt hole on the front case as 12 if the plug is directly behind this bolt hole. A fairly simple procedure to change it. Don't pull the back case from the front, or you will lose the brushes. First remove the pulley and fan with a impact and the 4 bolts holding the cases together. Then just pull the front case up from the back separating the two housings but "holding or keeping the the rotor in the rear housing" and then rotate the front to the position you need. Most are at the 3 position. Push them back together and replace the 4 bolts and then put the pulley and fan back on and you're done. A 5 minute job. This way, the brushes don't pop out. [img]file:///C:/Users/Guy/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image002.gif[/img] We do it this way all the time.
2) Darn, that was the way my alternator was mounted when I got it. I will relocate the J bar to the back, instead of the front. Although does it really make a difference?
my guess is yes for alignment of belts.. take a straight edge and see..
Top Alternator brace
