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1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2021
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Hi - I purchased a 1975 white Corvette coupe in 1980, it had 5K miles, it now has 50K miles. I restored the interior and replaced the rear bumper in 1994.
It has been sitting covered in my garage since 1997. I am trying to get it running again, I replaced the battery and will replace all tires if I can get it to run.
I drained as much gas from the tank as I could (color was yellow/orange about 4 gallons) and added about 5 gallons on new gas (clear w/o any color).
Disconnected fuel line at carburetor and attached drain line to 5-gallon bucket. Cranked engine for 15-20 seconds several times emptied bucket after noting fuel color.
Color went from "dark" yellow/orange to light yellow orange after 3 tries. Small amount of sediment noted after each cranking.
Question: Best way to proceed? Drain fuel tank again and re-fill? Keep cranking?
It has been sitting covered in my garage since 1997. I am trying to get it running again, I replaced the battery and will replace all tires if I can get it to run.
I drained as much gas from the tank as I could (color was yellow/orange about 4 gallons) and added about 5 gallons on new gas (clear w/o any color).
Disconnected fuel line at carburetor and attached drain line to 5-gallon bucket. Cranked engine for 15-20 seconds several times emptied bucket after noting fuel color.
Color went from "dark" yellow/orange to light yellow orange after 3 tries. Small amount of sediment noted after each cranking.
Question: Best way to proceed? Drain fuel tank again and re-fill? Keep cranking?
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Racer
Joined: Jan 2017
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From: Rock Hill South Carolina
After 25 years of sitting, I’d be more concerned that the old ethanol/gas in the carb has absorbed water and corroded the bowl and passages. And I sure wouldn’t want to pump whatever goo has remained into the engine either.
I’d crack open the carb to take a look before I cranked it.
I’d crack open the carb to take a look before I cranked it.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2020
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From: Western NY
If you decide to try and start it i would splice in a clear plastic fuel filter between the tank and fuel pump and keep any eye on it to see how bad it fills up with any possible sediment and or crud from the tank. once you run it for a while and it looks like it will stay clean you can hook up the original lines. if after a couple of fuel filters they keep filling up with crud you will have to address the possibility of replacing the tank.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
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From: Napa Valley California
I would, open the fuel cap, shine a flashlight into the tank and see if there is any crud floating around or lying on the bottom of the tank.
Then I would drain the oil, and install a new filter and pour in some good 10W-40.
Pull the radiator cap and add water/coolant that fills the radiator 3/4 full.
Hook up a new battery and crank it over.
If it starts, let it run until the gauge starts to rise while checking for fuel, oil or water leaks.
Let it come up to temperature, shut it down and smile the rest of the day.
Once you know it starts and runs, then you can start replacing all the fluids, checking the brakes, putting it in gear and moving it under its own power.
Replace the tires before you put it on the road.
I'm sure you know the belts will probably squeal and you'll need to replace them and all the hoses soon.
If it was running when you parked it, depending on where and how it was stored, it shouldn't take much to get it running.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Then I would drain the oil, and install a new filter and pour in some good 10W-40.
Pull the radiator cap and add water/coolant that fills the radiator 3/4 full.
Hook up a new battery and crank it over.
If it starts, let it run until the gauge starts to rise while checking for fuel, oil or water leaks.
Let it come up to temperature, shut it down and smile the rest of the day.
Once you know it starts and runs, then you can start replacing all the fluids, checking the brakes, putting it in gear and moving it under its own power.
Replace the tires before you put it on the road.
I'm sure you know the belts will probably squeal and you'll need to replace them and all the hoses soon.
If it was running when you parked it, depending on where and how it was stored, it shouldn't take much to get it running.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Last edited by OldCarBum; Nov 23, 2021 at 06:00 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2016
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From: CLEVELAND STUCK IN OHIO
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Yea, I kind of agree, get it to fire up for a minute. Then go after the rest or the things that need attention,,,, complete fuel system cleaning, oil- filter, coolant drain- flush -rad & engine, carb rebuild kit ( it likely will be leaking from every gasket,, KEEP YOUR FIRE🔥 EXTINGUISHER IN HAND ) , Then brake system flush,
Then, after all that,, driveway test it, then decided in tires,,. It will be fun 😀
Keep us posted with pictures,, we luv em.
Welcome,,,
Then, after all that,, driveway test it, then decided in tires,,. It will be fun 😀
Keep us posted with pictures,, we luv em.
Welcome,,,
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,097
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From: New Braunfels Texas
The stock fuel filter will catch 99% of the sediment......put a new filter in and fire it. If it runs good it does...if not, then pull the carb and go through it.....chances are the accelerator pump is dried up but you do not know for sure. If you get fuel coming out the top when trying to start it could be the float or the needle. Even if there is crud in the tank....if the sock is in good shape....it will catch that too......if you do not like it...the sender comes out the bottom.....easy to rectify with it out.
I have fired a lot of old cars that have sat over the years and it is a 50/50......mostly depends on how dry the storage was.
Jebby
I have fired a lot of old cars that have sat over the years and it is a 50/50......mostly depends on how dry the storage was.
Jebby
Safety Car
Joined: May 2001
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From: Fairfax Virginia
Welcome to the Corvette Forum Purban!
When you buy a new battery be sure to charge it completely before installing it. I would fill the carburetor thru the vent tubes and then see if the engine will start.
I personally don't use my C3 as often as I should and when I let it sit for a few months I will pull the distributor and prime the oil pump with a Dewalt Cordless Electric drill and the priming tool. I run the drill for 2-3 minutes maintaining over 35 psi pressure so everything is well oiled before turning the engine over. It is not hard when you do it regularly, just line up your Timing tab and ensure that your distributor was pointing at the Number 1 cylinder (pointing to ~ 5:30).
Changing the oil before you start it up might be a good idea as old oil can turn acid. Don't forget to get the extra ZINC either in the oil or in a bottle so you can protect your cam and lifters.
Good Luck and I hope the start-up is non-eventful!
When you buy a new battery be sure to charge it completely before installing it. I would fill the carburetor thru the vent tubes and then see if the engine will start.
I personally don't use my C3 as often as I should and when I let it sit for a few months I will pull the distributor and prime the oil pump with a Dewalt Cordless Electric drill and the priming tool. I run the drill for 2-3 minutes maintaining over 35 psi pressure so everything is well oiled before turning the engine over. It is not hard when you do it regularly, just line up your Timing tab and ensure that your distributor was pointing at the Number 1 cylinder (pointing to ~ 5:30).
Changing the oil before you start it up might be a good idea as old oil can turn acid. Don't forget to get the extra ZINC either in the oil or in a bottle so you can protect your cam and lifters.
Good Luck and I hope the start-up is non-eventful!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 3,181
Likes: 732
From: Texas City, TX Texas
My friend had a motorhome sitting outside in the Gulf Coast heat and humidity for 18 years. We squirted some oil in the cylinders, and with some fresh gas she fired right up. Swapped the engine into his daily driver pickup, and it was still running five years later when he sold it. I bet you'll be fine after following the above advice.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,019
Likes: 1,119
From: North tonawanda NY
After 25 years of sitting, I’d be more concerned that the old ethanol/gas in the carb has absorbed water and corroded the bowl and passages. And I sure wouldn’t want to pump whatever goo has remained into the engine either.
I’d crack open the carb to take a look before I cranked it.
I’d crack open the carb to take a look before I cranked it.
Pro
Joined: Jul 2021
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https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics...iences/gasohol
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,019
Likes: 1,119
From: North tonawanda NY
Yes. It was introduced in the forties and by late seventies was widely available as Gasohol.
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics...iences/gasohol
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics...iences/gasohol
It wasnt a thing were I live, at least not widely sold or used in the quantities were it damaged rubber and carbs until the energy policy act of 2005 set a minimum for such adjuncts thats also when the pumps started designating whether it was gasoline or the mix.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Nov 24, 2021 at 04:47 PM.